The Butora Gomi is a comfortable down-turned performance climbing shoe wrapped in Butora's NEO Fuse sticky rubber that is best suited for sport climbing and bouldering. The Gomi gets back to Butora's tradition of carefully pairing comfort with performance. The Gomi is marginally softer than their other aggressive models and is a completely new last built from the ground up.
R**O
Soft and sticky Narsha replacement
I have a wide toe box and a narrow heel, and wore Butora Narsha shoes for years while they still were available. I mostly sport climb on 10 to 60 degree overhanging terrain, and like my heel hooks, toe hooks, knee bars, and bat hangs.I appreciate the extra top rubber on these shoes. I suppose I could train weighted inverted toe raises to get good at toe hooks and bat hangs in other shoes, but I'd rather eat ice cream instead.The rubber on these shoes is soft and sticky and better for smearing than for edging on granite micro crystals. For hard slab edging I would prefer a stiffer shoe, but I don't climb much in that style these days.The heel cup is snug. I'm not sure it's as awesome as the Narsha heel cup (which had extra Velcro to help lock it down), but it's still miles more secure than almost anything else out there for me.I bought these in size 11 (44 EU), about the same as my street shoe. They're pretty comfortable, and I may go half a size down next time if I notice a performance hit as these break in. Fit is very similar to my Scarpa Instinct VS, size 44 EU. I have no idea how sizing compares with La Sportiva, since I've been unable to unlock the inscrutable mysteries of that brand since the day I retired my Mariachers.
Trustpilot
1 month ago
3 weeks ago
