Kinivo 8K HDMI Switch (8K 60Hz, 4 in 1 Out, 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 Hub, Ultra HD Switcher, HDR10+, Dolby Atmos) - Compatible with HDTV, Nintendo Switch 2, PS5, Xbox, Apple TV

Short review (to the point) Plugged in, powered up, and my Xbox lit green for 4K60 + HDR10 instantly. Apple TV 4K looks perfect. Auto-switch works; nice that I can disable it. Solid build, proper 18 Gbps/HDCP 2.2, no handshake fuss. If you need reliable 4K60 HDR across multiple inputs, this is the box. Long review: After two failed “4K” boxes that down-negotiated my signal, the Kinivo 350BN worked the moment I plugged it in. My setup: Xbox Series X and Apple TV 4K into the 350BN → TV’s HDMI 1 (UHD/Deep Color on). Powered from the included wall adapter. Results: Xbox shows green checks for 4K 60 Hz, HDR10, 10-bit in the TV details screen. Apple TV runs UHD 4K flawlessly; with Match Dynamic Range/Frame Rate enabled, HDR content pops and menus stay clean. No flicker, no HDCP tantrums, no color banding. Why it works: Proper 18 Gbps / HDMI 2.0 bandwidth, HDCP 2.2, and an auto-switch you can toggle off if a streamer stays “awake.” The remote is simple, port LEDs are readable, and the metal chassis feels solid. It’s not a 2.1/120 Hz device—and that’s fine for a 4K60 HDR setup like mine. Tip: Keep HDMI runs short and power the switch from the wall, not a TV USB port. If your TV has a per-port “UHD/Deep Color” option, enable it. Bottom line: Zero handshake headaches and full-quality 4K60 HDR10 from both Xbox and Apple TV. This is the one I wish I bought first.

I bought this about 2 years ago for a complete overhaul of My room and forgot about it until a few days ago. I have a Nexigo 2K 120/144hz 16in 16:10 Portable Monitor that I use in My temporary front room office space. This thing works absolutely flawlessly. When you turn something on or off, it automatically switches to the device that just turned on or back to the last device that it still detects is on, which is awesome. My laptop and Xbox Series X both detect the display and are able to display at 1440p 120hz, as if this device doesn't exist which is perfect. My PS4 has always had problems with this monitor as it doesn't have any sort of 4K mode, and it's 16:10 which puts Black bars at the top and bottom. The PS4 still tells Me "1080p (Unsupported)" & HDR is on but not supported somehow, that's no fault of the HDMI hub. With or without the hub, there are Black bars on both consoles because Microsoft & Sony didn't make them with 16:10/800-1600p in mind. 1440p 120/240hz is the highest I like to go as 4K seems unnecessary and it's hard for My eyes to pick up any differences. I love how out-of-the-way this thing feels, it comes with a remote and a switch on the device itself but the way it switches between sources has made it to where I've never had to touch the device or the remote. It's awesome. The fact that it has 2 extra HDMI ports for any other devices I might want to plug in is insane. In the future, I'm sure I'll end up plugging My new desktop I'm building and capture card into it. Usually when something says "5 Port" it usually means that one of those ports is in the "Out" port so you can really only connect 4 devices to a display but no, it actually has 5 In & 1 Out so you can hook up 5 devices at 4K 60hz, 1440p 120hz, 1080p, etc. This device seemed a little overpriced at first but I can't believe how seamlessly it works and I now feel it is worth every penny. I'll be getting another one for My room in the future!

For starters, I really like the look and feel of the switch. I also like the fact that this is capable of doing true 4K rendering at 60 Hz. I bought two of these animals because of the reviews and specs...that, and the fact that the availability makes this a hard item to get. Because I have two, I was able to do some basic testing to make sure the problems I initially was experiencing weren't, in fact, due to bad HW. Here's what I discovered... When you go to set up your components, MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS POWERED OFF AND DISCONNECTED!! When I say everything, I mean everything. The components, the switch, the TV...all of it. It may not be practical, but you are better off literally unplugging the power from everything before you connect ANY HDMI cables. The pics show that I have an Xbox One X and a Sony PS4 as the only two items connected to a SONY 40" curved 4k monitor. Initially, I thought that the consoles would be ok in a "Power Rest" mode. Once I'd plugged in my HDMI cables, I plugged in the power to Switch ONE and fired up the Xbox. WOOHOO! Now, let's fire up the PS4! That's when things got weird... Switch ONE kept intermittently flashing, meaning it would kill the vid/aud feed from Input1 (Xbox) and try to jump over to Input2 (Playstation). It would hang, then try and go back to the Xbox, be ok for a few seconds, then repeat this annoying habit of trying to go back to the PS (which was in it's Power Rest mode). Figuring that the PS was doing a 'keep awake/connected' pulse out the HDMI port, I disconnected the PS (just pulled the HDMI cable out of the Input2 port), and the Xbox was able to work with no issues. Every time I'd plug the PS back into Switch ONE (regardless of which input port), the same behavior would manifest. Flash off of Xbox, try to go to PS, go BACK to Xbox....wash, rinse, repeat. I was able to get Switch ONE to work by powering down EVERY component (did some other tests that I won't go into here with an Apple TV) and disconnecting the switch power, as well as the power cables from the consoles. I plugged in all of my HDMI cables, THEN powered on the switch ONLY. I then plugged in and turned on the Xbox, no issues. Then plugged in and turned on the PS, VOILA! It still flashed....I know. I was hoping that would've fixed it too. For this particular switch, I had to hold in the SWITCH button per the Mfg's directions for ~ 8 sec. to turn off the Auto-switching mode. With that done, you can see that Input 1 is Blue, Input 2 is RED and I have stability even if both consoles are on, regardless of 'power state'. Did I mention I did some testing with two switches? After verifying that I got the same behavior on both switches (initially), I tried just powering everything down and plugging everything in to Switch TWO. Powered up Switch two, powered up Xbox, then powered up PS...oddly enough, Switch TWO was able to figure out how to navigate the issue and did not do the 'flashing' behavior. I did NOT have to hold in the SWITCH button for ~8 sec. on the second switch. Both switches will not Auto Sense and switch. I believe that is just the best you're going to get if you have any Apple or SONY products connected to this switch. You're stuck using the remote. Which isn't that bad, you can see in pic 4 that I keep mine right on top of the Xbox, and when I'm ready to go get pwned on the PS I just pick up the remote and push the button for Input2. BOOP! Even if both consoles are powered up, it switches right over, no issues, no flashing, no drama fo' yo' mama. Hope this helps anyone out there that's having issues getting this switch to work initially! I was able to get both to work with SONY, Xbox, PC, and Apple products connected...just no love on the auto-switching front. That's why it get's 4 stars instead of 5. I'd honestly give it 4.9 if I could, because the pic quality is perfect!!

This is very convenient so far. I have not had any issues with connection of my PS5, Nintendo Switch, Xbox Series S, Gamecube (via GCHD adaptor), SNES Classic, or Xbox 360. And any time I put on my Splitter Input, and turn on my console, the switcher automatically goes to that specific console input every time, no issues. Only time you actually need to use the remote is when 2 consoles are turned on at the same time. You'll need to manually switch the inputs if you're downloading games on one console and playing on the other, etc. No big deal though. Super easy. The 5 port option seems to be just enough for me. I did try to hang this on the wall with a few velcro circle adhesives (meant for posters not really tech). It kept falling off the wall because the HDMI cables will most likely weigh the box down. That being said, I imagine if you use strong Command adhesive strips that are meant for heavier objects, this should have no issue staying on the wall. It also does look nice on the wall behind or next to your setup. Another little convenience hack is to stick the remote to the stop of the box via velcro adhesive. I know where it is at all times now because I used to always lose it. But if I have to switch between console inputs, It's super simple to press the buttons when attached to the box on the wall. Overall, a solid switch box that has given me no issues in terms of picture quality. Good buy.

This thing is literally worth every penny. I have recently discovered that an iPhone works quite well as a gaming console when paired with an HDMI adapter. Unfortunately, my TV only has two HDMI ports. One is fully occupied by the Sonos sound surround sound system, while the other was occupied by my Apple TV. My goal was to keep all Apple TV functionality while being able to easily switch to my iPhone for game play. Two HDMI adapters I tried failed MISERABLY at this task. Both of these adapters worked 100% of the time for the iPhone, but either would not switch back to the Apple TV, switched back only sometimes or worked for a little while but eventually dropped out after weird black outs that would persist. Another major problem, is that I lost the ability to tell Siri (via Homepod & Apple TV) to turn on my TV. I almost gave up before purchasing this adapter. My Siri commands to turn on TV through Apple TV (over HDMI) work even when the Apple TV is sleep and the iPhone is the active HDMI device. Switching to and from works FLAWLESSLY and there are no drop outs and no quirky behavior. Even though the manual says that Auto switching does not work for Apple TV here is what I experienced. When I unplug the iPhone from the dock connected to my TV, it AUTOMATICALLY switches back to the Apple TV. When I sit my iPhone back on the dock, it AUTOMATICALLY switches from the Apple TV to my iPhone. This is EXACTLY what I was hoping for. There are absolutely no flaws in this adapter for my intended uses. 5 stars all the way !

Not sure what new components they're using in these 8K Kinivo switches recently, but these new ones don't work well at all. This is my second one in the last year and both were duds. I thought maybe the one I got last year was a bad and decided try again almost a year later. Nope, this second one was a dud too with the exact same issues. This switch did not support 120hz 10bpc on PC. All I kept getting was a black screen. It also doesn't support HDMI 2.1 fiber cable. I actually have the exact same version/model (a total of 3 I have bought) of this switch I bought 2-3 years ago and it works great at 120hz 10bpc and 12bpc and works great with a 50 foot HDMI 2.1 fiber cable with VRR. Only explanation I have for these last two I've gotten is the inside components have changed. It sucks because the one I do have works great. Wish I could find another like it. Kinivo switches are usually top notch, but these ones recently of the 8K model have not been.

I have an LG UltraGear 48 inch gaming monitor that can handle PS5’s top graphic settings when plugged directly into the HDMI input. However, I also have a Macbook Pro, Apple TV and Ipad Pro 12.9 that I also want connected to this monitor. Now the obvious and most simply solution would be to just plug each device into its own input and move on with my day. Endlessly going into input settings and switching the HDMI input manually and the quick input switch selection on most monitors usually forces you to cycle through all the inputs! NOW it is 2024 and who has time for that?! It is very clear there is a need for a simple desktop device that can easily switch the input direcltly using a button or a small remote WITHOUT loosing any the amazing sound and video quality of these next gen A/V devices. I tried every option i could find on Amazon, at Best Buy, on Reddit and NONE would push the full 120hz 4k/60hz 8k signal they boated to retain. I promise even the most respectable brands like ANKER, UGREEN or INSIGNIA had options that simply would not push the signal 100% correctly. I also tried the off-brand switches that look just like this one which promise the same specs and they still did not work. The closest i got was the UGREEN 8k 3 port HDMI Switch but it could not push the full 120hz framerate at 4k only 60hz at 8k. At the end of the day a jump from 60hz to 120hz is MUCH more notable than a jump from 4k to 8k which is barley noticeable in screens smaller than a movie theater. FINALLY i decided to just buy every option and return the ones that did not work. THANK YOU AMAZON because i finally found it. This is the switch of switches, it works like a tank and i have verified 100% full lossless audio and video using several methods I learned while testing the other switches. i even am able to route the audio out of the headphone jack of the monitor into my KRK Subwoofer, which acts as a Audio hub for 4 krk rockit studio monitors. THE SOUND IS PERFECT even with super sensitive studio monitors that are built to notice even the slightest imperfections. BEST BEST BEST. dont waste your time with anything else or let anyone convince you the only way is to directly connect to the tv. THIS SWITCH WORKS AND I AM SO HAPPY!

Great item, works as described. Switch 2 and PS5 graphics displayed as intended using this switch. 👍👍