Rust-Oleum 260510 Stops Rust Automotive 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer Spray, 12 oz, Gray

I used the Rust-Oleum 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer for some minor repairs on my car, and it worked perfectly. The spray provides even coverage and fills small imperfections well, creating a smooth base that’s easy to sand down once dry. It’s quick-drying, so I didn’t have to wait long to move to the next step. The gray color also makes it easy to spot any areas that need additional sanding or filling. Overall, it’s a reliable primer that makes touch-ups straightforward.

Rust-Oleum 260510 Automotive 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer, 12 Ounce (Pack of 1), GrayI can't express enough how impressed I am with the Rust-Oleum 260510 Automotive 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer. It's been a game-changer for me in my DIY automotive projects. This primer, in its convenient 12-ounce can, has saved me both time and effort.I was initially hesitant about using a primer, but this product made me a believer. The gray color blends seamlessly with most automotive finishes, providing an excellent base for painting. What sets it apart is its 2-in-1 functionality, which means I don't need a separate filler and primer. It's a real time-saver.The application was smooth, and it adhered well to the surface. After letting it dry, I was pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to sand. This made the surface preparation process a breeze. It created a flawless canvas for the topcoat, and the final result was outstanding.The durability of this primer is also noteworthy. It has held up well against various weather conditions and wear and tear. My paint job still looks pristine months later.In summary, the Rust-Oleum 260510 Automotive 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer is a must-have for anyone looking to achieve a professional finish on their automotive projects. It's efficient, effective, and delivers exceptional results. I highly recommend it to fellow DIY enthusiasts and professionals alike.

Sprayed surface rust on boat trailer. Excellent coverage and adhesion without any prep work on my part. Just ensure surface is oil free.

There may be better, but for the price, this is your best option.I would like to remind those who are using this on 3D prints, not to simply rely on JUST this product, to remove those layer lines. Otherwise, you're going through 2 cans or more. Sanding is part of the game and can be pretty meditative; but if you want it easier on yourself, this is what i do.I rough sand with 80, wetsand with 220 and 400 and THEN use this product. Put down the first coat the way you would with any rattle-can, which is even light sweeps, side to side while either moving up or down like a printer, a few minutes apart from each other. You can wet-sand after 4 hours, but i give it a full day to cure, so i can work on other projects. Wet sand with 600, let dry, drop another coat, let cure for a day, then wetsand a final time with 600. At this point, any imperfections will only enhance your weathering. Remember, every scrape or blemish is just good weathering, adds character and even opportunities for chipping.A few tips. Do NOT over-spray, JUST to fill up a problem area. Alot of people say not to worry about it, but i do. It will take longer to cure to a dry enough state and will only clog your sandpaper immediately. Be patient, build up layers, give those layers time to cure, and you will use less material. Also, when wet sanding, you can add a little dish soap to the sandpaper, to help slough off the debris. You do this, because when particles get trapped in the sand paper (remember we are using a fine grit), it scuffs up the surface more. Adding a little soap to your wet sanding will give more polished results. And when wet sanding, to not keep the print submerged or directly under flowing water, unless to rinse.3D prints, even with filler, can be porous and absorb the water, meaning you have to wait until its fully dry (at least 48 hours) before you can get back to spraying, because it's still dripping water through the infill. Also, don't use too much soap, as it could possibly be absorbed by the print. A drop less than half a grain of rice is enough. Personally, I just kiss the nozzle of my soap dispenser with the wet sandpaper, and that's enough for me.Also, identify the hard-to-reach areas first, like recesses and trenches, and spray those areas first. If you have to go back to fill those areas in, you risk overspray. If you missed any hard-to-reach spots, let it dry for 10-20 minutes, and then mist those spots. Overspray means more work cleaning up.Another thing is that paint looks different when its wet, and when its dry. When you throw down coats, don't go back over an area just because it doesn't look tacky or wet enough. Stick to your even coats, even passes side to side, up and down like a printer, let dry, and do another pass if need be. Also, a print doesn't necessarily need to be SATURATED in a color. If your intent is to weather, and you used black primer as a base coat, throwing down a light topcoat will allow that black to bleed through, and help make it look dirty.

This is one of my favorite primers to use on auto projects. It has great adhesion, fills imperfections and sands easily. Most other primers will not fill the imperfections as well or sand as easily. I tried multiple primers over the years and I like this the best. It won't fill a crater but it will fit small sanding scratches and continue to build with each coat. It can easily be dry sanded or wet sanded, whichever you prefer. Great value for your money and the durability is very good! I will buy again

Great!

Works well.

Great for finding/covering layer lines on 3D prints.