Honeywell V4043H 1056 2 Port Zone Valve Normally Closed 22mm

Genuine Honeywell part was delivered within 24 hrs. They are worth paying for, the cheaper copies are a false economy, in my opinion.My central heating stopped working & the cause was the Honeywell valve for the central heating loop. It was probably as old as the house (~50 yrs), so can't complain - it's not had any parts replaced either!I looked into keeping the valve (the brass part) & just replacing the actuator (metal box), but it was such an old model, this didn't seem worth it. On the old models you can't replace the actuator without draining down the system, with the new ones (like this one) you can. So if you have an old one, I'd replace the whole thing if it dies.Apparently you can get apator kits to fit new actuators to old valves, but really don't waste your money, just replace both parts (with this part). The valve will get gummed up over time anyway, so it does need replacing from time to time.When I ordered, the complete unit was actually cheaper (by about 10%) than buying just the actuator & I fitted it myself, so it was a no-brainer for me to replace the entire unit.Look between the metal box & the brass valve, if you can see a thin layer of red, this is the sealing gasket - and means you have an old style unit - so order this part & replace the whole thing - the wiring, colour of the wires & action is identical.If you have previously replaced just the actuator becuase it has stopped working, becuase it had ground down its gears, this means the value is getting clogged up with gunk - so I'd say you need to replace both (using this part) - if you just replace the actuator again you're just wasting your money & causing yourself headaches.The gears are made of brass as a fail-safe so, if the valve action starts to seize, the gears will grind down, instead of the motor burning out, which could be a fire hazard.To fit this part, shut off the water to the C/H, drain enough water to allow you to remove the failed valve & replace it with this part. Make sure the arrow points in the same direction as the old one (away from the pump). If in doubt search youtube or call a c/h engineer.My top tip is - if you put a tub under the valve, then loosen one of the retaining nuts enough to cause it to dip, you can then tell if you have drained the system enough, cos the dripping will stop - it also allows water to drain out of that pipe quicker as it allows air in. Often you will not have to drain down too much, as the valves are near the top of the system.

Value for money, cheaper on Amazon than local shops

This is in 'Trade' packaging, bare box without instructions. Fine if you are in the trade, familiar with these valves, or even just doing a like-for-like swap - but tricky if for instance you don't know how to connect up the different colour wires. Appears to be the genuine article, worked exactly as expected.

Quick delivery. Quality part - all fitted perfectly.

Working very well so far, let's see how long it will last,

This review isn't so much for the valve more about the process of swapping it over.We had a faulty valve swapped by an engineer a couple of years ago and paid over £100 for the privilege. But the new valve has started to make a knocking noise when going to closed position, closer inspection shows that the teeth on the gears are worn and in some cases broken. I didn't want to spend another £100 plus, so thought I'd have a go doing it myself. (I'm not convinced this engineer install a brand new valve, but that's another story).I watched a few Youtube videos and confirmed that this model does not require draining of the system so long as you're just replacing the "Powerhead", which is the silver metal box. This detaches from the brass pipe section really easily. I also waited for the weather to warm up a little, I didn't want to risk breaking the heating and having to wait for an engineer to arrive in freezing temperatures.Once you've swapped the powerhead, the 5 wires just need swapping over in the junction box. Fiddly but still easy. Just make sure you take lots of pictures and video before you disconnect anything. Oh, and switch off the electricity too, obviously! I used a meter to double check there was no power.My heating system and wires are a mess (inherited with the house), but it was still a fairly simple swap.20 mins later I switched it all back on and tested. All working perfectly plus there's the bonus sense of satisfaction of a job well done!

One evening, I tried to turn on the central heating which was working fine in the morning, nothing happened. No heating but I had got hot water. After further investigation, I noticed the motorized valve was not neither opening the valve nor the switch, but if I manually opened the valve, I would get the heating which confirmed the motor had packed up. I replaced with a similar motor, which worked for a few hours and then it stopped.So I decided to replace the whole valve head with genuine Honeywell motorized valve. I knew I only needed the valve head as the joint body was fine. I kept the the metal joint as spare. It was a straight forward replacement. Before any job with electricals, always switch off the power beforehand. The valve consisted of 5 wires. I disconnected and connected one at a time and took pictures of them so I would not get mix up. It take me 15 minutes and turned it on. Bingo, it was back to life and I didn't even have to hope it works because I knew I was using the genuine parts. So far so good and it was not that expensive. Well worth the money. A very good BUY.

None genuine Honeywell valves sent to me. As a heating engineer the last 15 year I fit the Honeywell valves ever week and the ones sent are different and not the same as the genuine ones. I can see from some of the review photos they are the genuine ones but not what I received.