Inkbird Solid State Relay 40DA DC SSR Black Heat Sink for PID Thermostat Temperature Controller

I mounted this on the upper side of my CR10 S5's PSU for my upgraded bed heater. I upgraded the fans in the control box and added a stand that has a raspberry pi and 12v Noctua fan powered by the Pi's USB. The exhaust from the case is never warm and I never notice a spike in my Pi's temps in octoprint. I was weary of fakes, which seem to be everywhere, but this one has worked great for me.

Performed so well, I've ordered 2 set's over the last 8 months. Couldn't imagine using anything else. Definitely worth the money! One big call out is. You may want to research the difference between a ssr-Da and a ssr-AA and finally a low voltage contactor for your application needs. I only say this because it appears from the reviews, that many people are miss matching their ssr to their applications. I know that I did this in the beginning and toasted a few myself... Do the research first, it'll pay off in the long run.

The Inkbird HEATSINK combined with the SSR worked well with my temperature controller. The 4 photos indicate an application of controlling temperature with an Inkbird SSR and PID control unit. Basically the unit maintains a set temperature to seedling's on top of a heating mat.

Have used this several times. PID IS Hooked up TO SSR to power heating coil on my smoker. Working flawlessly so far. Very happy. Smokers original controller stopped working correctly after replaced twice.

Update: it's been about 3.5yrs since installing these. The bottom one runs the most. Load is constant at about 17.5A when on. Whatever happened, it failed in the ON state and the terminal melted a bit. The enclosure has an 80mm fan for extra cooling. I'm probably going to strip more wire and loop it around the screws for better contact. Original: I have no idea if this device truly has the guts for 40A, but I only need it for a 25A load. Oversized it deliberately based on youtube videos saying SOME sources were under-built knockoffs; can't say either way here since it would take destructive efforts to determine. After being ON for several minutes, the device & heatsink are still under 100F with ambient temp in the mid 60s. 3.3v signal from the controller works fine to switch the devices.