Woodstock D4151 110/220-Volt Paddle Switch

I love the large stop paddle on this switch. It makes it very easy to kill the power or stop the machine it is connected to. It was fairly simple to wire up (there are words molded into the back side on the plastic that show load and line sides). There were quite a few people complaining about the lack of wiring instructions but I didn't find it too difficult. I'm no electrician but I have wired up quite a few different things so I wouldn't consider myself inexperienced. I did test the connections with a multi-meter just to make sure I understood how their circuit was working.My only complaints for this unit were the non-standard screws and screw placement. I was installing this on a machine we built ourselves but I was planning on mounting it into a metal electrical box (junction box I think is what they are called, remember I'm no electrician). Unfortunately, the thread on the two screws at the top and bottom are not the standard thread pitch for mounting in a standard American junction box. Perhaps I'm just not experienced enough to know that there is a different kind of box I should have purchased, but it was annoying to have to replace the screws and drill new holes in my metal box to mount this thing. I'm guessing it is meant for a panel mount (onto a flat sheet of metal) so you can make your own holes to match. The box you mount it in will need to be fairly deep as this switch is quite deep.The machine we installed it on works well and hasn't had any issues with the switch turning off. I would highly recommend this switch to anyone because it seems well built and is quite inexpensive. I love the large paddle that makes it easy to stop and cut power quickly. I will be using this on any future machines I build.

Worked great. Easy install

The electrical switch seems to be substantial. The gigantic paddle is not vandal-proof but should stand up great to owner/operator use. The hard-push and THUNK is re-assuring.The mounting screws are metric and also too short to get a good grip. You should get some longer US thread screws (commonly available in the home-stores). '#6-32 x 1 in' is a good size. These may be cheaper in the hardware aisle than in the electrical aisle.The switch is 1.75 inches behind the mounting plane. It is not quite as high and wide as a standard 1-gang box, but so close that I would not count the stray space. A rough-count of wires entering the box gives an NEC requirement as high as 13 or 14 cubic inches just for wire-folding space. In a 2x4 box, that is another 1.75 inches. So the total box depth must be about 3.5 inches, the deepest box commonly made, and not always available in the home-stores.It may be better, in some cases, to get a 4x4 (square) box 2" deep, and a "1-Gang Square Mud Ring" (Steel City 52C13 or 52C1458, Raco 8772, Carlon A415D) to mount the switch. This gives ample side-space for wiring, ground, and clamps.I have posted some wiring diagrams (see "Customer Images"). Your switch should say "LINE" and "LOAD" in very small letters. Once you notice that, the wiring should be clear.

Update 2 - Jan 2017: I bought and installed the same switch despite the reliability issues because I couldn't find a better one. After I installed the new one, I opened the old one and looked inside. The photo is the inside of the back cover. You can see the lower 2 terminals are completely burned. I wired the switch 120V and these were the hot terminals. After this, I'm changing the rating again to 4 stars because even though it failed at a load far under 35 amps (claimed ampacity), the box was at least heavy duty and secure enough not to burn. Not even a hint of a sniff of smoke outside the box. So even though it's going to burn at underrated loads, at least it will burn safely.Another thing I noticed while reading reviews was that some people claimed the installation screw holes (not terminal holes) were in the wrong position and they had to drill new holes. This is not true. They are positioned for a finish plate (same as a plastic decora switch plate). The switch needs to be installed in a surface mounted box with a steel finish face plate, which will provide grounding to the box (you did ground the box, didn't you?) and the holes are lined up to fit. I grounded by wire the box and attached the box directly to the steel chassis of my table saw. 100% grounding - chassis, box, switch...Update 1 - Jan 2017: switch died after about 18 months. Changing review to 3 stars. Big knock for reliability. There are no signs of overload on the outside of the switch (burn marks, smell). Nice functionality but poor reliability.Original review:This is a great switch. My 20+ year old delta tablesaw switch was upgraded with this. It works great. The buttons are a little hard to push but I think they'll ease up over time.Pros: works great. Big stop paddle. Can kill it with your knee or whatever may be handy. Nice and safe.Cons (not worth detracting from 5 stars):No documentation. Not that big of a deal since the switch itself is marked with line/load sides. However, there are a couple of other screws in the back that may or may not be ground terminals. I wasn't sure so I left the switch itself ungrounded.The terminal blocks are small. I had a few ring terminals that fit but not enough and ended up recycling 1 from a different wire. It would have been better if the terminals were large enough to wrap 12 awg stranded around. Not really possible. Those screws are small. You need removal rings to make it work properly.It is deeper than a standard 2 gang box. I used a 3/4" extension cover (the kind for double layer drywall) and it fit fine in the box.I hung the box under the tablesaw fence rail in the same location as the original switch. The electric box didn't fit so I used a few inches of steel angle I had laying around and bolted everything together. Bonus! Now the chassis and motor are grounded together. Safety first!

I used this switch to replace a dead switch on my Grizzly table saw. Easy swap out, worked perfectly, months later...still working perfectly. I would recommend this switch for use for table saw, router table replacement. The large OFF paddle works quickier then original switch.

Su reacción es instantánea para apagar flujo eléctrico. El ancho del interruptor es muy conveniente sin tener que mirar donde se activa.

Used on my Tablesaw. The switch is large, so I bought a plastic back-box that looked like it would accommodate the switch; it does, BUT the front plate of the switch does not have standard holes to screw into a box. It has bolts that go through the plastic front and through a metal strap of the switch mechanism. The spacing of these screws is also a bit too much for a standard box.I had to remove the bolts/nuts, lengthen the bolt holes a bit, with a Dremel grinding rod, then use the bolts without the nuts to screw right through into the back-box. The plastic front, with paddle, is loose from the switch mechanism throughout this mounting process until the screws are tight.Also, the switch is designed for ring terminals, so you must crimp ring terminals to your wires. Once this is done and the parts assembled into the box, it works fine. Much better than my old, old light switch in a metal box on the side of the table stand. I drilled though the table frame to mount the box and switch flush with the front of my saw table leg-frame. I t is now easy to reach for on or off and I can knock it off with my knee while holding the wood steady after a cut.Definitely a good improvement over a simple old light switch.While the front plate and switch-block were apart, I also put a thin smear of thick grease on the front of the large buttons of the switch-block, to reduce friction between those and the front plate buttons.Works much more smoothly now.

The action of the switches requires a lot of force to engage the ON and OFF buttons. The paddle switch is helpful to activate the OFF button (it is easier to use). THE BIGGEST ISSUE is that there is no cover panel or mounting panel making this (1) dangerous to users if wiring is not appropriately protected, and (2) the lack of a mounting plate creates more complications for the buyer. I got my unit to work HOWEVER I had to source and buy extra parts which was a difficult activity for this unit. Buyer beware!

As many have said, the installation instructions are skimpy but at least show you where the load and line are. Solid switch and works well once put together. A few recommendations when assembling a box to house the switch:1. Box should be at least 2 1/8" deep. Do not use PVC if you want to build this solid and mount to a stationary tool.2. Oddly enough, use a 4" x 4" x 2 1/8"d box with a riser plate. and assemble the switch to the riser plate.3. The provided screws are larger than a normal boxes plate holes. Either ream out and re-thread, or get new screws4. Use 2 strain relief connectors for the wires going in/out of the box.5. Size your power tool, and select wire size no less than 14ga, but no larger than 12ga (recommended)5a: A good 12/3 outdoor extension cord, like what is sold by Amazon basics is a cheap way to get up to 30' of wire on this switch (no more than 30')6. Ensure you have a good crimp on your connectors. Do a pull testFinal thoughts: If you are replacing a switch on an existing tool, this is a good, cost effective safety switch. If you are going to build an entire assembly to save on costs, plan it out and compare to a pre-made. Only build if you need the cord length (my build was about $75 CDN).

la use en mi sierra de banco y hasta ahorita no ha fallado, buena opcion para proyectos caseros o semi industriales