U.S. Solid Motorized Ball Valve- 1/2inches Stainless Steel Electrical Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 3 Wire Setup by U.S. Solid

I'm pleased with the function of these valves. I used 3 valves to create an automated, remote switch for a tractor-mounted sprayer that we use for applying fertilizers and weed killers. Previously, I had to dismount the tractor when I wanted to switch from recirculating the solution to pressurizing the hose/wand applicator, then to routing the solution to the mounted boom applicator, etc. A total pain!Now I can flip a switch or two to operate the valves from the drivers seat and keep moving.For those who may be intimidated by wiring the valves, don't be. All valves share a common ground wire (unswitched). You just need a single-pole double-throw (SPDT) toggle switch to operate each valve. Wire a power source, 12vdc positive in my case, to the center terminal of each switch. The remaining two terminals become the "output" for the power, one to power the valve open, the other to power the valve closed. With this valve, power is not required to hold the valve open or closed. Once it reaches the desired open or closed state, it stays in that state until power is applied to the opposite lead to reverse its state. Very nice. If power is turned off, the valve remains in its current state.The included instructions are easy to understand.There are valves by this manufacturer that will close if power is shut off, if that better suits your needs.Combine these valves with good switches and waterproof connectors, and you'll have a great setup.

I ordered the first valve 6 years ago and installed it into the drip system and a remote emergency cutoff. It has been in the open position for 6 years. I now have installed this one in the front system. I thought it might be time to cycle the old valve( I know - way past time). I really thought that it would be either dead or frozen because it is out in the open, but it cycled just like it did 6 years ago. The engineering in these valves are truly outstanding.

Like all water irrigation system lines, mine leak and the pump cycles. So I put this valve in-line then put in a relay; when the timer calls for water it first energizes the relay to open this nice little valve, thus the flow to the irrigation valves, then they open. Installed in a box outside. Works great for 2 mos.

I bought a couple of these to turn off the water supply to my water heater if a leak is detected near that water heater. Thankfully, I have not had to use this home automation feature, but I know it works and have peace of mind that if I'm not home and a water heater springs a leak, it won't flood anything.

Works great.

Close time is ~3.5s at 13.8v, 7 sec at 7v, 5 sec at 9v, and 3.5 or so seconds above 10v (only tested to 15v).I run PWM on the yellow common to slow it down for a 10 second close time using the microcontroller running the system with two of these valves in it. Prevents sudden pressure spikes from damaging RO (Reverse Osmosis) membrane and other filters. Also using it on the auto-flush of membrane for same reason, no sudden shocks/water hammer on sensitive materials and an overall plastic system.The 3 wire is the one you want if using a microcontroller or PLC to operate, though you'll need to modulate the ground to slow it down to match the 10psi/sec rate of change spec of Membrane manufacturer. This is going WAY above and beyond, nearly all commercial systems use the cheaper solenoid valve, but that shock isn't good for the thin film membranes. Now running within spec to see if membrane lives more than 6 months. If there's no update, it worked. Has been working great for a month now.Current wiring: SPDT Relay with 12V Common, NO -> Blue and NC -> Red for a normally open. Yellow goes through a MOSFET modulated via PWM to control speed of opening and closing in software via pressure sensor and flow meter feedback. Home systems likely don't need this level of specification, but if you're bored and want a project, I've made the code open source. Currently writing a port of it for Arduino so there's a plug and play system where no programming/electronics/systems knowledge is needed.Best thing about it is freeing up another Solenoid valve to flush the first 90 seconds of RO water directly to waste instead of through DI Resin, the savings in Resin life extension by 100x alone will pay for these valves in a year.

It's really just open or closed. 0 or 1. No level of finite position control. Kind of useless outside of one specific use case.

Product description says: "No power expended once fully open or fully closed". Testing (DC model) shows continuous 5ma draw after actuation in either direction. (30ma during open/close, testing at 19V)5ma is not a lot if powered by a fixed power supply but is definitely a limiting factor for running remotely from batteries. An AA alkaline battery pack (batteries wired in series) would only last about 2-3 weeks even if the valve is not operated during that time.I want to like this product, not very many options otherwise, but I'm having to rethink implementation after getting it. Glad I tested before installation. May not be an issue for you depending on how you plan to power it.I hope the stainless steel model is truly stainless steel and NSF certified. Inaccuracy in the product description casts doubt on other claims made.