OREI eARC 4K 60Hz Audio Extractor Converter 18G HDMI 2.0 ARC Support - HDCP 2.2 - Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR, Dolby Vision Supported (HDA-927)

I got this in preparation for the Nintendo Switch 2, which supports 1440p120 HDR, 4K60 HDR, and 5.1 LPCM surround.Tested with three devices; a PC (1440p120 HDR), a Roku streaming box (4K60 HDR and stereo PCM), and a Nintendo Switch (1080p60 SDR and 5.1 surround LPCM), connected on the TV output to a HDMI 2.0 1440p monitor (which reports stereo audio support only) and on the Audio output to an old HDMI 1.3 audio extractor.On the video side, everything worked perfectly, including HDR and HDCP. The Roku's stereo and Switch's 5.1 surround sound were passed through to the audio extractor as expected. Strangely, audio from the PC didn't work at all, but I didn't get the Orei device for this purpose anyway.Audio and video latency with the Orei device + audio extractor is no worse than with just the audio extractor. I'm assuming the Roku's Dolby and DTS sound will be passed through perfectly as well, though I don't have a capable receiver yet.

Device forces you to use the EDID of either output 1 or 2, this is a huge issue as if you are using this device to send audio to a receiver and video to a 1440p monitor, you will either be unable to use your monitor at it's full resolution or have no audio.

I got this to eARC enable my Marantz SR7010 AVR which has working ARC support - to my new Hisense U7K w/ eARC HDMI 2.1 support. With ARC you only get up to 1.5Gbps audio; ATMOS 5.1 core, DD, DTS, and a lesser quality version of ATMOS. Modern BD and UHD based movies primarily use DTS-MA, TrueHD ATMOS which are only available on eARC equipped systems (18-48Gbps bandwidth)I left both dip switches "On" for eARC and EDID (since my AVR supports all current audio formats) and after testing various "ultra hdmi" or "hdmi with ethernet" cables I was able to get up to DTS-MA 7.1 on my AVR - but TrueHD 7.1 would not work.Just to make sure I ordered new HDMI 8K ethernet 2.1 cables and that not impact the result. I used the eARC/ARC port on the TV to the adapter OUT 1 port; AVR non ARC port (HDMI 1) to adapter OUT 2 port.When testing I found I had to completely turn off and unplug the TV, AVR, and this adapter to ensure any change to the setup would be picked up. Once I figured this out I went through a methodical process testing various combinations of adapter and AVR/TV HDMI settings.The TV says it's outputting "MAT" which is TrueHD/ATMOS but all I get is silence via Plex app on TV. I had to switch to the embedded 5.1 audio track to get any sound.Beyond the audio; CEC mostly worked. Turning off/on of the AVR does not always work. Turning off the AVR after initially using it and turning it back on usually resulted in no audio which as only correctable by restarting everything (but not restarting the adapter).HDMI compatibility can be hit and miss and this is mostly due to the optional nature of the standard - format-wise; vendors can pick and choose what and how they want support various capabilities and that can cause issues. The older the HW the more likely issues can arise - it's just the nature of technology.To be sure I bet this can work just fine for folks who use sound bars or other non true home theater 7.1 (and/or Atmos) setups as the most they need is a low bit rate 5.1 audio track - but for those that can take advantage of all a 7.1/ DTS-MA HD/Atmos, etc. formats has to offer it may fall short for you depending upon your equipment.In reality for the price, ease-of-use, and size it's probably worth a try; it's just going to be YMMV

I have a 2021 86" LG UP8770 TV. It has two HDMI 2.1 ports, and it will pass through Dolby Digital Plus and Atmos. I have an older Denon AVR-4311 receiver. It will not pass through 4K video. I connect everything directly to the TV for the best picture quality. I was stuck with running an optical cable back to my receiver. Subsequently, audio tracks were downgraded to Dolby 5.1.This is process worked for me...1. On the OREI device, flip the EARC switch to "On". It was switched to "Off" when I opened the package.2. On the OREI device, flip the EDID switch to "Out 2". It was switched to "Out 1" when I opened the package.3. Run an HDMI cable from your TV's EARC port to the "Out 1" port on the OREI device.4. Run an HDMI cable from the OREI device's "Out 2" port to one of the inputs on your receiver. I chose Sat/Cable.5. The OREI device came with a micro USB cable, but it did not come with a power block. I used the included micro USB cable and an old phone charger to power the OREI device.6. I went into my TV's audio settings and changed the audio output to Earc. I also made sure Earc support was toggled on in the TV's advanced audio settings.I immediately started getting Dobly Digital Plus surround sound, and, as an added bonus, I can now control my Firestick Max with my Harmony remote. The Harmony sends signals to the TV, and the TV relays them to the Firestick via the HDMI connection. The Harmony wouldn't control the Firestick previously. The Harmony remote is infra-red. The Firestick Max is bluetooth. I wasn't expecting this added benefit of adding the OREI device.Several reviewers have stated that the OREI device needs to be unplugged from its power source and plugged back in periodically because it stops working properly. If that happens, I will try connecting the included micro USb cable to one of the TV's USB ports or one of the USB ports on my receiver for power. That should cause the OREI device to shut down every time I power down my system and restart when I power up my system. Hopefully it won't be necessary, but this workaround seems like it could work.Update: I have been using the device for months without needing to unplug it.Update: It is now 2/5/24. I've had this for two years. I'm now using it with an 83" LG C1, the newest 128GB AppleTV, and an old Denon AVR-4311 receiver. It hasn't skipped a beat. Make sure you set your TV audio to "Passthrough" for the best sound if you are connecting to a receiver.