OVERTURETransparent Filament Clear PETG Filament 1.75mm, PETG Transparent 3D Printer Consumables, 1kg Filament (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy Probability +/- 0.02 mm,Transparent

Good PETG for the price. It is not too picky on temperature, it prints fine anywhere from 245-255 on my Ender 3 V2. It doesn't bridge very well but that is to be expected for PETG, if you want to bridge I recommend printing at 245 and turning on bridging settings in Cura which makes bridges possible although pretty ugly. Supports work better than bridging, but can be hard to remove because PETG sticks to itself so well.Here are my settings for Ender 3 v2:micro swiss all-metal hotend / original extruder / original bowden tubebltouch leveling probe + yellow springsnozzle 0.4mm 250cbed plain glass + gluestick, 85cfirst layer speed 10speed after first layer 30first layer height: 0.28layer height after first layer: 0.2fan: none unless you are trying to bridge, if so use bridge detection to turn fan 100% only for the bridgeretraction 3mm @ 30I find that the biggest struggle with PETG is just getting the first layer to stick and look good. Once you get past the first layer it is usually smooth sailing. If you have problems with the first layer, first of all dry your filament even if it is brand new. It is an easy way to eliminate frustrations. Also go ahead and calibrate your extruder steps and measure your filament diameter and put that into your slicer, again these are easy steps that ensure you will not be fighting under/over extrusion while you are trying to get everything else figured out. Next use glue stick on plain glass and let the glue stick dry. You want the glass to look dull, not shiny, but it also shouldn't feel sticky to the touch. This combo works great for me, it adheres well but not TOO well and the prints pop themselves off when they cool. Lots of people like hairspray too but gluestick works fine for me and is less messy. Finally the #1 most important thing is to adjust your z offset and first layer height. You cannot mush the filament onto the bed like PLA, it needs to fall out of the nozzle and gently lay down onto the bed. Before doing anything with your z-offset I recommend turning your first layer height up to .28 or .3. The reason is that this sets your nozzle higher AND automatically adjusts the flow rate to match. If you just start bumping your z-offset higher and higher, you will be under-extruding by a lot which can cause its own problems. Once you set your first-layer height to .28, then start printing a test print and live-adjust your Z until the lines lay down and stick to the bed, and are neither gooping up onto the nozzle, nor being hit by the nozzle and pulled off the bed. This is tricky because the sweet spot here is TINY. Like within one or 2 micro-adjustments on the z, either side of that you will have issues. But once you hit the sweet spot on the Z you are golden. Then print some bed leveling test prints and adjust your first layer extrusion multiplier or line width if needed so your lines are touching. I recommend always using the bed level print that is CIRCLES when starting off, not squares. The sharp corners on the squares are super unforgiving and will pop off instantly if your settings aren't right. It is easier to use a bed leveling print with circles to dial your settings in without frustrating yourself and needing to restart the print a hundred times.When printing things over 2" tall I recommend using a wide brim because originally I was using skirt and I have had taller prints pop off the bed right as they are nearly finished, I think the reason is due to the lower part of the print cooling off. A brim is cheap insurance against your whole print being ruined at the last moment, and is easy to remove and leaves little trace that it was ever there.

I've been using 3d printers for all of 2 week. A couple days ago I decided to try my first non-pla filament, so I bought this because I heard PETG has a great finish, and its a bit more flexible.The first thing you'll notice is that when the material is heated, it can blob up very easy on the nozzle, but I think it's that ability to blob so easily that gives it such a great finish.I've only been using it q couple days, but so far I've gotten great results with 20 mm/s speed, bed starting at 75 then 80 after 2 layers, and nozzle temp at 250.This filament is also known to string easily, but from what I've experienced, this particular type of stringing is easy to clean up, and once you get comfortable with the material, it's easy to resolve.It can have issues sticking to the bed, and get tangled around the nozzle, so you're going to want to keep an eye on it at first. Especially the first few layers.The settings you'll want to pay attention to most are:Retraction - too little and you'll have stringing. Too much, and filament will start pulling melted blobs into the nozzle head and then depositing them on your print. I have mine at 3/30Nozzle temp/speed: I've had decent results at 235-240, but I could not get them consistently. The last few runs 250 has been the sweet spot at 20-25 mm/s nozzle speed. Because this filament melts at a higher temp, but is also gooey, you'll have to play around a bit with the speed and temp. But the priority shouod be starting off at around 20 qnd 245-250, and then going from there, so you can get used to how this filament flows.Bed temp: 75/80. I lay down 2 layers at 75, and then bump it to 80. I usually do that 5 degree initial difference to help the plastic cool at a more consistent rate. As the nozzle moves further, and more layers are added, the bottom layers can start to shrink on you, and mess the edges up. This, one with the draft shield, an experimental feature in the cura settings, have gone a long way with eliminating that issue.I've seen people say 60 or 65 on the bed overall, but for me, that cools that 1st layer too quick, and the filamemt pops up and gets stuck to my nozzle.In fact, this just happened a few days ago, which somehow led to my motherboard blowing, but luckily creality covered the cost.Last but not least, I think you'll love the feel and finished look of this material. It's a big step up from pla. The fill pattern is not nearly as noticeable through the outer layer, and its much more smooth. It will make you look like you know what you're doing lolHave fun & #PrintOn

I bought this to experiment with making strong, translucent objects and printing clear decorative items in vase mode. Needless to say, this filament prints extremely smoothly with the right settings, and is very strong. The spool I got was well dried out of the packaging, and I ran it without drying with zero issues. If printed slowly and with the right nozzle temp, this stuff can come out crystal clear, especially if you use larger nozzles. Would highly recommend, great filament.

Consistent and reliable, as I've come to expect from Overture's PETGs. Well packaged in a mylar pouch with a decently sized desiccant, it comes dry and ready-to-print.Not overly hygroscopic unlike some PETGs; I've left it out for a week or so and it still prints fine without having to dry it again.A little stringy and messy on the nozzle, but this is pretty much standard for PETG; it sticks to everything. Don't print on bare glass! It will become a permanent fixture or rip up shards if you do.Layer adhesion is extra good with this stuff, even compared to other PETGs.Cardboard spool is nice and can be easily reused or recycled. Plenty of holes for putting the filament through to prevent unwinding. Winding is also very tidy, and filament diameter is consistent.

Filamento de buena calidad, desafortunadamente venía mal bobinado en varias secciones.

The media could not be loaded. Very hard to print, I had to heat over the filament recommandation I was more in ABS range than PETG. Otherwise the filament remain matte and is brittle. It's really easy to broke.Filament rolling on the spool is not very good, it's not equal.

Fungerar utan problem.

Compared with my previous brand, this has a superior performance and quality.