3MScotch-Weld Epoxy Adhesive DP460 Off-White, 1.69 fl oz

I used this to repair a costume jewelry dress clip on which the clip back had become detached from the front. Since it was an old 1930s solder joint I was really dubious about how the repair would work out. I cleaned up the joint and used a small amount of DP-460 and cured it for 3 days. Afterwards, to my amazement I opened and closed the clip and it snapped closed and held firmly. It's now several weeks later and the joint is still good. If it didn't work I would have had to send out the clip for laser welding which is quite pricey!

I'ves used the epoxy before in areas where failure is not an option. Make sure both surfaces are clean of any oils or dirts and stick it to your hearts content. After than, oils and other chemicals will not penetrate it. It will be stuck forever. I use this epoxy with the mixer tubes to place screens on the inside of racing engines and have never had a failure. While on the pricy side, the quality and dependability is well worth it.

This cartridge does not come with a dispensing gun/plunger. It's amazing to me, given you are spending over $50 for the tube.

Works as it should very well

DP460 is one of the strongest and best epoxies you can get on the market today. It has a 1-year shelf life though and making sure you get it fresh is really critical to getting it's full potential. These tubes I bought from this seller were fresh and worked a they are meant to.

This epoxy tube didn't fit in my epoxy gun, but it is usable without one. Just twist off the tip piece, and press down each side the same distance (a pencil works well). Squirt the epoxy onto a piece of cardboard, mix with a popsicle stick or cut-off q-tip, and apply. Twist tip back into place to keep the epoxy fresh for next time. For occasional household use, this method works great for me.The set time is generous enough to allow time for a small repair, and sets in a few hours - I usually wait overnight before use to make sure.So far this has held up better than J-B Weld, and dries lighter and less noticeable.

I was a bit skeptical but this was the Epoxy recommended by Sheldon Brown to bond aluminum to carbon fiber. I re-bonded one of my rear aluminium dropouts to the carbon fiber chainstay, I've since put about 300 miles on the bike and it's holding up fantastically! I didn't buy the "required" epoxy gun, I just pushed it out with my finger and mixed it up with a Popsicle stick. This epoxy made a great addition to my bike repair arsenal.

Jimmy Z. You seem the most familiar with this epoxy. I have to re-bond an aluminum sleeve inside a carbon tube. The sleeve is not removable but it has broken bond and has some play. I plan to drill lateral holes along the glue line between the two surfaces and pressurize the Scotchweld through these holes into the old glue joint. Any idea on what solvent I might use to clean out any dirt/oil etc in the sleeve.Any insight would be appreciatedAC