Voilamart 26" Waterproof Ebike Conversion Kit 48V 1500W LCD Display E-Bike 135MM Rear Hub Motor Wheel Built-in Controller Electric Bike Conversion Kit 750W Restricted (135mm Dropout Rear Wheel Kit)

FIRST IMPRESSIONI have three ebikes and I think this is my favorite motor so far. I highly value silence and this motor and controller is completely silent while also being powerful and fast. I can not hear any noise at all coming from the motor, it's just a super smooth and silent push from zero to 31mph. Without and drivetrain noises or shifting needed, it provides an excellent super smooth, silent and fast impression.ADJUSTABLE AMPS (P14 setting)Using a 48v 14AH Samsung 35E cell battery, I get a solid 1450-1600w with full throttle from 0-31. I believe my battery BMS limits power to 30amps however the lcd P14 setting has a max of 35amps so it's possible a higher amp battery could result in even more power. I tested setting P14 to 20 amps and it reduces max power to 1000w. I also tried 17 amps and got 800w. This is extremely useful if you want to maximize battery range or if you just don't have a high end battery or if you just want smoother lower power. It is also important if riding on roads so you can adjust power down to legal limits. In Oregon it is 1000w and 28mph while pedaling. If installed on a kids bike you could dial it down even further like 250w.ADJUSTABLE PAS TOP SPEEDP08 allows you to set the maximum speed in pedal assist mode in kph. Default was unrestricted at 100kph but you can set this to any amount. I set mine to 45kph which is 28mph and the legal limit in Oregon. Note that it does not limit throttle top speed.INTEGRATED CONTROLLER (in wheel)I also really like the integrated motor controller. Most bigger hub kits have a fairly large controller box and associated wiring that you have to find a place to mount. The hidden controller on this one really help clean things up.WATERPROOF QUICK CONNECTORSAnother huge help in installation is the waterproof quick connectors. This is like snap together idiot proof wiring that goes really fast. You match up the colored end and snap the connectors together. This also really cleans up the wire mess significantly. Taking the apart requires more force than I would like but installation is a breeze.FRAME HUB FITMENTThis did take some effort and light filing work to fit my 135mm x 9mm drop out. I think hub spacing is closer to 142mm after adding the washers needed to clear the freewheel and disc just right. I also had to file down the axel bolt slightly where it slid into the frame as it seemed just a hair too tight. This all took some tinkering but totally doable for anyone who is a DIY type of person.PAS SETTINGSPAS is adjustable to either 5 or 9 steps adjustable through the controller lcd. I changed to 9 steps which makes each PAS level work in roughly 5mph increments. PAS1=5mph, 2=10, 3=15, 4=20, 5=25 and 8 or 9 =28mph with my max speed P8 setting at 45kph. Initially I wished the settings were power increments rather than speed settings but I've grown to like it ok. It is kind if like multiple cruise speed settings. My only dislike is the power applied can feel a little too much when in high PAS levels coming from a stop. If in setting 5 it is full power until you get close to 25mph then it tapers down. I wish you could adjust the power ramp up to something a bit more gradual. My radcity bikes use power level instead of speed and a bit smoother ramping. I found that limiting amps in P14 to 20 or 1000w helps snooth this out a fair bit.NO LIGHT WIRESOne thing missing is a light output connection. I'll have to see if I can modify one in, currnetly using battery powered lights.FREEWHEEL AND GEARINGFreewheel seems of good quality but is only a 14T in the smallest tooth. I switched to a DNP 11-34 freewheel and 53T front sprocket so I now have plenty of gearing to pedal at full speed. Initially I had a 44t front and the 14t rear freewheel I could not pedal faster than 25mph and it was only relaxing to pedal to 20mph. I would recommend replacing the freewheel with a DNP 11-34 and using a 52T front sprocket if you want to keep up with this speedy motor.WEIGHT and APPLICATIONThis motor is ideally suited for pavement duty. It is heavy happiest going high speeds commuting on pavement. Direct drive motors have no gears or reduction so they don't have low speed torque for doing moutain biking offroad stuff. I have this motor on a full suspension mtb and do take it offroad but a lot if unsprung weight making the rear skip over rocks a bit. A mid drive motor is better for offroad purposes. However I think for commuting on pavement this motor is perfect. It's helpful not having to shift and the silent smooth power works great for a commuter. The PAS system is not the most advanced but I think it could be upgrade by adding a torque sensor crank and cycle analyst. I may do that later. I think this motor and weight is perfect for commuting but not the best choice for offroad.OVERALLBottom line I think this kit is an amazing commuter kit in most ways. I finally have my class 3 fast and silent 31mph ebike and still a bit shocked at the high quality you get for the price. It took a little fitment work but honestly a more fun commuter rude than many very expensive ebikes I've ridden. There is a huge grin factor gain between 20mph you get from most ebikes and class 3 28mph. This ebike kit makes me want to ride more, it's really a great kit!

I like the fact that the controller and such are built into the back tire. For the most part the installation was rather simple. But that couple times I had questions on how to do things the manual wasn't much help. It also ended up being a little bigger project than I was expecting.But everything worked good on the first try. Not a lot of low end torque. But I bought it to make a commuter bike to ride back and forth to work. And it works great for that. Saving me gas and ware and tare on my vehicles.Time will tell as to how durable it is.Update. I am still happy with the motor. But still under 400 miles and the tire is extremely wore. Would expect it to last a lot longer.

I want to highlight the excellent customer service that I received from the Voilamart team. The original purchase was straightforward and the kit performed exactly as described. It's got plenty of high end speed, though it lacks torque like you would get from a mid drive motor. It was enough for commuting (I weigh about 185) and pulling a trailer with my 2year old daughter. I used the DIY ebike for commuting (approx 2 miles per day) and did some off-roading as well.The Hardware:I converted a 2008 hardtail rockhopper and the only snag was that the original width of the frame was a bit narrow. I had to force the frame open in order to fit the hub, but only by the width of like 2 washers. The installation was foolproof. The instructions included were good, but I figured it out on my own. The controller P-settings were easy to configure. The P10 settings are not really accurate with the SW900 controller since 0,1 and 2 allow you to use both throttle and PAS (you'll know what I'm talking about when you read the manual and set the controller). The cable coming out of the shaft is in a precarious position, as it is on the inside of the bike frame and only a few millimeters from the disc brake bolts. This is where I encountered an issue. After a pretty hard mountain bike ride in the ice, one of the bolts came loose from the hub and shredded the cable. This rendered the entire kit useless because nothing worked after that. However, I had several communications with Jason at the Voilamart team and they helped me immensely to get parts and troubleshoot.The Service:I searched for weeks for replacement cables, watched youtube videos on how to fix the issue, I even soldered the shredded cable back together and was able to turn everthing on. However, I screwed up and pulled a red wire out of place while installing the hub motor onto my bike, and then I was back to square 1. I finally contacted Voilamart through their website and got quick responses from Jason ( within 24 hrs). I initially was looking for a cable and a wiring diagram so I could repair everything myself. However, he was able to get me a replacement motor with cable straight from the factory in China. He provided me with a tracking number as soon as it became available and I got the part in a reasonable amount of time. When it arrived and I finally installed it, I got a few errors and reached out to Jason to help me troubleshoot. He was quick to respond with some troubleshooting steps and offered to review a video of me going through the steps so that the factory could diagnose. Despite the offer, I just decided it would be faster to just order new parts off Amazon.Things that you ( and/or Voilamart) should consider.1) Make sure your motor cable has enough clearance to avoid being shredded by any disc brake parts. If you're not using loctite on your disc brake bolts, use loctite (the green one).2) the shaft diameter is a bit wider than standard mountain bike rear lugs and I had to file them down in order to get the shaft to fit. Not sure if there's a better way to design that since the cable is wider than most hub motors. The controller is internal to the hub3) Replace the twist throttle with a thumb throttle. They are more sturdy and you can use your own handlebar grips. the ones that come with the twist throttle are rigid and uncomfortable.4) Invest in some tire foam so that you don't have to patch or replace the inner tube as often. The rim that comes with the product doesn't seem to be made for tubeless tires. Taking the wheel off is a pain, so do what you can to not have to do that.5)The PAS sensor can stop working if you lose friction between the bottom bracket and the magnet ring. 2-piece magnet rings are available, more reliable and easier to install.6)I'm using 2 torque arms; one on each side of the hub motor. This is probably overkill, but I don't want to risk my frame. I'm not sure why these aren't included in the kit, but they should be.7)you may have to adjust the position of your disc brake calipers because the fitment of the hub motor in the frame is weird.

I used this to convert an old beach cruiser into a ebike. I’ve put nearby 3000 miles on it so far. Still going strong. Outperforms most factory e-bikes.

The breaks snapped while I was going 25, I fell and broke my elbow because of it. The breaks clearly are very brittle.I will say the motor is very good, and an in wheel controller is different but has served me well. Just DO NOT USE THE BREAKS!!!. Buy different ones

Really liked this setup with controller integrated in wheel motor. I had a bike with a compartment to fit a controller in the frame, but it gave out and I couldn't find another one that size. I used this kit, with easy setup to fix the problem. I had no need for were the brake levers as mine are disc brakes and these are for conventional. I just used the connectors. This takes me 200lb and my bike 30mph. Worked like a charm. If I had a complaint it would be outter tire was cheap and no inner tube was provided. Other than that it works great. Instructions are clear and display parameters were easy to set up with instructions.