Carburetor For Polaris Magnum 425 (1998 1997 1996 1995) 2x4 4x4 6x6 &1999-2009 Ranger 500 & 2001-2008 Sportsman 500 ATV QUAD Carb

Installed carb and it leaked fuel from the overflow, removed carb and disassembled finding some casting flash or a chip from finishing the carb body lodged on the fuel inlet needle. This isn't that bad, but people should know it's probably a good idea to pull this apart when you get it and clean it out before installing.Additionally people should check the jets for their application, as a 425 Polaris motor has a stock jet size of 140 (Mikuni sizes) while this carburetor had a 180 jet installed and a 145 jet included in the bag. I installed the 145 jet and set the mixture screw at something close to the manual stated 2.5 turns out for stock.After those fixes it ran just fine, or as fine as it will run with a horribly neglected Magnum that you buy from your neighbor for a pittance.I would have had this at 5 stars had I not had the fuel overflow problem right off the rip, and it would be nice to note somewhere on the product that it comes with a 180 jet installed so I would have known up front that it needed to be swapped.All that said, you're buying a $45 carb to replace an OEM Mikuni that costs $200+ used - one should probably expect to take it apart and give it a good inspection before installing.

I purchased this carburetor because the original one needs a few parts that are pretty expensive. The new parts that would get the old one up and working properly would cost about $250 dollars. So I figured I would give one of these generic ones a go. Especially since there are so many decent reviews overall.My personal experience with this carburetor is not good. First off I am an automotive diagnostic technician. I have been trained in general automotive and then went on to specialize in diagnostics and performance. I have been working as a diagnostic technician at a local Chrysler/Jeep dealer for 28 years.Although my initial inspection of the carburetor out of the box was good, there happened to be three internal problems with it, None of the problems were related to fit or external blemishes.Upon installation and starting the machine I immediately found there to be a serious rich condition at idle, The ATV would not idle well at all, it had a terrible miss and was so rich that it caused my eyes to burn from the fumes. So I checked the mixture adjustment and found it was turned out 3 and 3/4 turns. The typical setting for most carburetors is roughly 1 turn +- a half turn. So I turned the mixture screw in and ended up turning it in all the way and the ATV was still loping and burning my eyes. At this point, with the mixture screw turned in all the way, the engine should stall, but it did not. It was still way too rich. I had already checked the choke setting when installing the carburetor, by removing the top of the carburetor to visually check the choke piston in the bore, per its factory service manual setting. So I suspected something wrong with the float/needle assembly. I pulled the carburetor back off the vehicle and removed the float bowl. My inspection of the float and needle was fine aside from the float being set too low, which would cause a lean condition, not rich. So I knew something else was wrong.For the time being I left the float set low, as is, not knowing what the major problem was just yet. I removed the main jet needle and inspected it for deformities and what its adjustment was set at. The jet needle was also set for full lean(the top notch, which sets the jet needle all the way down). These two settings being set for full lean made me start to worry that there was a serious flaw with the carburetor, that could not be fixed. Because with these two major settings being set full lean, the ATV should not be loping and barely able to idle, yet rev up and seem to run well at nearly W.O.T. (Wide Open Throttle). A lean condition will not rev up well and work at WOT. It will just bog very badly.The next step that I needed to check was to remove the jet block assembly so check for problems with the needle jet (not jet needle, they ate different parts. The needle jet is the tube that the jet needle slides in and out of, depending on throttle opening). What I found made me angry as there was a seal missing from the jet block assembly. See Attached Picture. The lower groove(on the right side of image) is missing the lower o-ring that sits in the float bowl and seals the jet assembly so that fuel is forced to go up through the actual main jet, not bypass it. This was the reason for it running excessively rich despite the other two settings being full lean. It's like they purposely adjusted them to full lean to hopefully counteract the missing jet block seal.The problem is that these seals cannot be purchased separately from the Polaris dealer. You have to buy the whole jet block assembly at $150. I took the carburetor up to a couple of the local automotive parts stores and found an o-ring that fits it ok. But I worry that since this seals sits in fuel that the o-ring will not last long as its not a fuel specific o-ring.Once I returned home and re-installed the carburetor, I no longer had a rich condition. It would not run at all because it was so lean. The only way to get it to run now was to spray carburetor cleaner into the throttle bore and when the spray was removed it would stall. So I turned the mixture screw out to the 3 and 3/4 turns it was originally at and the ATV would only idle. It did idle smooth though, but the engine would not rev up at all. Just bog and die. So I pulled the top of the carburetor off so I could adjust the jet needle to the full rich setting. After that adjustment the ATV would idle very well(without burning my eyes from the excessive rich fumes) and it would rev up to about half throttle. But anything near WOT the engine just bogged.I had to remove the carburetor again, so that I could adjust the float to its correct height, based on the factory service manual specifications. Once this setting was set correctly the ATV started idling too rich but would rev up and run at WOT as well. But the idle was now a little to rich. So I adjusted the mixture screw to about 1 and 1/4 turns out and removed the top of the carburetor again so I could change the jet needle setting to its middle or medium setting and now it starts well, both hot and cold. The engine idles great, without burning your eyes from fumes and it revs up and runs at WOT like a champ.In the end, the problems this seller and their poorly/mis-assembled product provided was something most people would not have been able to work out.I fear that the seal I had to buy from a local parts store will not last and I will have to remove the jet block assembly on a regular basis in order to keep replacing this seal.1) I gave the carburetor and seller a 1 for overall rating because most people would never have been able to get this carburetor to work.2) I gave this carburetor and seller a 2 for overall value. This is because once I worked out the problems with it I was able to end up with, at least for now, a well running carburetor. A new one from the dealer is over $700 and just the parts to fix the old one were going to be at least $250. I got this carburetor for $50 bucks. But not without having a lot of training and experience to get it working well.3) I gave this carburetor a 3 for easy to install because it is a direct fit, There are no missing adjustments, some of the generic carburetors don't have all the available adjustments. But I have to remove it and re-install it several times in order to diagnose and work out the bugs.Summary:Would I reommend this carburetor to another person. I guess it is a luck of the draw, as many other people never had problems. Some did have problems and have said they ended up using the new generic carburetor for parts to fix their old one.I would say this.If you are experienced and can diagnose problems on your own, then give it a shot for sure. You might end up spending a lot of time but if its for yourself you could save a lot of money. If you are an amateur and just trying to do it the easy way.... Well, "Do You Feel Lucky?"Remember, take a look at the picture I attached, That little groove on the right side, in the middle, of the black jet block assembly you'll see there is no o-ring there because it was missing. If that is missing it will be excessively rich.

Cheap fuel filter. But carb worked great no adjustment needed. Took forever to get

good

This was a piece of crap.

Runs great with the new carburetor

I bought a non-running 2003 Magnum 330 project and I have never had a Polaris so I don't know how it ran from the factory. After installing this carb it idled/ran smooth but didn't seem to have much power at all and didn't rev very high even in neutral (seemed like half throttle). I pulled the intake cover off and with the throttle wide open in neutral I covered the intake briefly to choke it, the extra fuel shot the RPMS up immediately. I pulled the bowl and compared the jets to my original to see if it would benefit from swapping them and was surprised that they were larger so I moved the needle to the highest positon (clip on the bottom slot) and put it back in to test. It revs much higher now and pulls a lot harder than before, not as fast as my bayou 220 but its a lot heavier bike. I gave it 5 stars because it wasn't designed specifically for my Polaris but didn't take much adjusting to make it run.

The carburetors on the Polaris Sportsman 500 have a tendency to start leaking fuel as the seals get old. Mine leaked badly and wouldn't start. I unbolted the old one, installed the new one, and started the beast right up. Super happy to say the least! I will say the fuel filter didn't fit for my application but I didn't knock any stars off as I was really just after the carburetor any way.

Depuis l'installation, le moteur démarre et fonctionne bien au idle mais éteint dès qu'on tire sur le câble choke. C'est un défaut ou il y a un ajustement à faire autre que la vis du câble?

Ok