Miter T-Bar for Jigs Fixtures Sleds Router Tables and General Woodworking 48 inch MADE IN THE USA

This T-bar is one hefty piece of extruded aluminum! Very straight and robust, and it arrived expertly packed and right on time. Compared to similar products from the woodworking supply places, the price was very reasonable. And based on several reviews, I have reason to believe that it fits nicely into the matching T-track that Peachtree sells. Now, the sad part: I recently picked up a Ryobi RTS10 table saw for free on Craigslist, and want to build a cross-cut sled for it. Unfortunately, this T-bar DOES NOT FIT the miter slots, and I have no intention of trying to make it fit. Instead, I will scrounge another cheapo miter sled like the one that came with the saw and simply re-use their T-tracks, since they do fit the saw, more or less. But since the ripping fence on the Ryobi is about as shoddy as the miter sled, I have an idea: I will order the mating T-track from Peachtree and use it with this T-bar to make a sturdy set of rails for a robust ripping fence and mount it on an equally robust table top which hopefully will turn the Ryobi into a useful tool....

Bought these to make a crosscut sled for my table saw. I'm a minimalist type woodworker. Don't really have the space for a full setup so I have to make do with a Rigid R4510 collapsible table saw. I tried a miter bar from another maker and it served me well, but these t-bars fit perfectly in my TS miter slots and I was able to make a very good sled for crosscuts and dadoes. If you have standard t-bar miter slots on your TS then these should fit perfectly.*Update*The only thing that could improve them is if there was some teflon screw or something to tighten them into the tracks. There is still a slight bit of slop in the fit if you only use one bar. I found that using two bars makes a very tight fit and was able to get accurate cuts. Also these could be better if they came with some hardware.Use some paste wax if you have trouble getting them to slide smoothly. I have a cast aluminum top on my TS and I put in a dollop of Johnson PW on each side and made the sled slide butter smooth.Of course your cut is only as good as your glue up right? Overall, no complaints. Can't wait to get everything put together.

There is so little play in this t-bar that I have to make sure I blow out the t-slot on my table saw with my air compressor before using any jigs with this t-bar. It’s aluminum so you can cut it with a regular saw. My advice is to wax the t-bar after cutting it to length and make sure to sand off any burrs from cutting it really well so it will slide well.

EXACTLY as described. Those of you who state you have to "space it" for it to slide need to realize it is most likely NOT this item, but YOUR slot. ALSO consider that this item would be used for a 'Feather' or any other item that would need to be LOCKED DOWN - so it DOES operate as designed. In fact I bought this to use in the Slot on TOP OF MY FENCE to mount a Feather and it works as expected.Dimensions oriented as shown in 'dimension picture' and as measured thru entire 48in length in decimal inches:Overall width: .866/.867; Slot fit: .746 +/-.0005!!! Overall Height: .375/.376; Slot Foot thickness: .125 +/-.0005; Mounting channel: .450/.451 BY .289/.290 deep.

I had purchased a T-Track for my router table but had not purchased the Miter T-Bar until now. This fit perfectly and really made a difference over the wooden Miter T-Bar that I had been using. Wished I had bought this when I bought the T-Track. Has a groove down the center for easy alignment and drilling of mounting screws for your protractor. Mine was shipped in a shipping tube and the ends were wrapped in plastic, no damage at all, not even a scratch.

Worked great on my metabo jobsite table sae. Fit perfect and worked great for making a miter joint jig. I plan om getting more to make mor jig like a crosscut jig. Downside os took 2 weeks to get it due to UPS screw up and mis sorting my package no fault to seller.

This is a quality Miter Bar. Not flimsy at all. Cut to length easily with a carbide tiped saw blade. Excellent for making Jigs. It has only about 0.001 of play along its entire lengh. Small sections can be used to make featherboard or clamp hold-downs, but you will need to thin the top of the bar a bit with a belt sander before the side flanges will hold fast in the channel. I'm trying hard to think of an application where an INCRA would be required because this was not adequate. Perhaps if you were building a Huge Left of blade sled that you wanted to be able to have hang unsupported, two feet behind the saw... Short of that, this will work for most jigs.

It didn't fit my chicago electric saw