Question 1

is the phosphorus ratio 5:1?

Accepted Answer

Doesn't  have no phosphorus. States on front label "Phosphrous Free"

Question 2

Is this what i would need for a russian tortoise?

Accepted Answer

yes , I use this for both of mine

Question 3

Do I need this for my bearded dragon? I just purchased him today he’s a baby ?

Accepted Answer

Yes, absolutely! You should dust his/her (appropriately-sized for a baby) crickets or dubia roaches with it, more often for juveniles but my vet recommends I use the powder a couple of times a week for my adult. I had been giving it with every feeding, but I’ve backed off of that frequency. Her X-ray shows a healthy bone structure fwiw.
 
It’s critical to ensure that bearded dragons get both adequate dietary calcium and quality UVB light in order to prevent metabolic bone disease. UVB light can’t be stressed enough and it’s easy to neglect as it’s sort of a passive thing. The combination of a cfl-style bulb (rather than tube), placing the light over a screen top, which filters out as much as 50% of visible and non-visible light, the quality of many bulbs and the distance from the bulb to a basking spot of an appropriate temperature, results in many bearded dragons receiving inadequate UVB light.

I suspect that a lot of impaction problems, which the online bearded dragon community seems to have an almost singular obsession with, are often due to bearded dragons purposely eating their substrate as a result of metabolic deficiencies, I.e pica, resulting from poor lighting and occasionally poor diet or lack of supplements. Given the rated distance uvb falloff of most bearded dragon-specific reptile bulbs, the typical bearded dragon set up of an aquarium with a mesh top and a cfl is probably going to provide inadequate UVB light. All that being said, hard substrate is still safer for captive bearded dragons, especially if you feed them in their enclosure. Keep in mind that they natively live in and around sand and sandy soil and Australia. Also, those so-called vitamin sand substrates, are not a replacement for dietary calcium, nor should you encourage your beardie to eat them. I personally like hardened excavator clay as it’s not loose, doesn’t hold moisture and looks natural. Females will actually need a sand/soil mix when it’s time to lay eggs assuming they don’t end up with follicular stasis which often requires surgery.

Additionally they need low humidity (25-40%), an adequate basking area around 110 degrees for a baby (less for an adult) along with a good temperature gradient in the enclosure, a hide of some kind, and adequate room to explore (40 gallon minimum). My enclosure is a 24x24x48 custom Animal Plastics enclosure and I wish it was bigger. They also need a varied diet of both green leafy vegetables and proteins. I would avoid those pellets although mine never would eat them anyway. There’s a lot of debate about which vegetables especially concerning oxalates. You should also occasionally use a multi vitamin dust on his/her feeder insects.

Female bearded dragons (which you may well have, as it’s difficult to sex baby bearded dragons) are more prone to metabolic bone disease when they are ovulating as they use the calcium for their eggs. Females generally require some additional specific care once that begins and often require spaying.

I would recommend a good bearded dragon book and an initial visit to a vet who has experience with reptiles.

Good luck. Bearded dragons are a lot of fun and personable for a reptile.

Question 4

Can I feed this to my pac man frog?

Accepted Answer

You can for sure dust his crickets in it, then feed him! If he needs a calcium supplement, this should work!

Item model number	73005
Volume	4 Fluid Ounces
batteries required	No
Batteries Included	No

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Fluker's 4-Ounce Repta Calcium by Fluker's

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