Boss BCK-12 Pedalboard Cable Kit - 12 Feet Cable, 12 Connectors

These worked very well for me. I give it four stars because I think Boss should have included more information and description about HOW to assemble them. They are actually very easy to assemble but there are some "techniques" that make it easy and some information about common mistakes would be much welcomed by users.I strongly recommend a multi-meter or at least a continuity checker for this. It really comes in handy if you make a cable that doesn't work and will help identify which part of the process is not correct. D'Addario makes a cutter/continuity checker specifically for making cables but I just used a multi-meter I had which was about $20. They come in handy for tons of household tasks and small electronics projects.I had excellent results with a pair of Fiskars 9" scissors we already had at home. I saw a video where the guy recommended wire cutters and I tried that first but because wire cutter blades meet in the middle and do not overlap, I was getting frayed bits of shield wire (the outer wire layer). Because scissor blades overlap, the cut across the wire is clean. After cutting, the cable will be slightly oval or "squished". Just pinch the cable back to a basically round shape. It just needs to be round enough to fit down into the "barrel" portion of the plug (i.e. the portion of the plug that disappears into the jack when plugged in).When you first open the package, make a cable with the full length of included cable. This does several things. It let's you test the full length of cable for any breaks or shorts (unlikely, of course but worth checking). Also, if it takes a couple of tries to get the hang of it, you are still left with a single long piece of cable. Lastly, you have a good cable with two known good ends, when you cut it to make a shorter cable, if there is a problem, you know which end is causing the problem.Here is my recommended procedure for actually making the cables. After you cut the cable and pinch it back to a round shape, insert the cable into the plug and slightly spin or rotate the plug as you push the cable in. The goal is to have the cable go into the "barrel" of the plug approximately 1/4" or so. You really don't have to push hard. The rotating or spinning just helps if the cable gets caught and doesn't go all the way in. Do this on both ends of the cable (don't put the screws in yet). Use the continuity checker to check the continuity of the tips of each end. You should have continuity from tip to tip. You can also check to make sure you do NOT have continuity from the tip of one plug to the barrel portion of that same plug or the other plug. At this point, only the two tips should be connected. If either tip has continuity with either barrel, that means the shielding wire inside the barrel (at the end of the cable) was probably frayed and is shorting to the tip inside the barrel. Most likely causes are a frayed cut, a cut that is not more or less perpendicular across the cable, or the cable was mashed too hard down into the plug when inserted (again, you don't need to push very hard, just firmly until the cable stops down inside the barrel). Now, start the screws on the plugs and as you gently hold the cable in the plug and make sure it stays all the way in, gently tighten the screws just tight enough that the cable doesn't move (just to hold the cable in place, the screw will not be all the way recessed into the screw hole in the plug). This is where I check the continuity again to make sure the cable did not slip out during the screw tightening. There should be continuity from tip to tip and NOT continuity from either tip to either barrel. If the tip to tip continuity is gone, then the cable probably slipped out. Loosen the screw and push the cable back in then tighten the screw and recheck. If the tip to tip is good and no tip to barrel contact exists, go ahead and tighten the screws until they are recessed below the screw hole in the plug. What is happening here is that the screw will puncture the outer rubber shielding of the cable and create the contact between the two barrel portions of the plugs at each end. So, as you tighten them, you can check for continuity from the barrel or outer portion (the portion that you hold on to when inserting or removing the cable from the jack) of each plug to the other plug. Once the screws are completely recessed, you should have continuity. If not, try tightening them a little more (you may have to tighten them relatively tightly, remember, it needs to puncture through the rubber outer shielding to contact the wire shielding under that). When done, you should have tip to tip continuity, barrel to barrel continuity, and NO continuity from tip to barrel (either way). At this point, if something didn't work right, it is best to remove the cable from the plug and cut the cable a fresh cut beyond the point where the screw pierced through the shielding and start fresh.Lastly, test the cable by plugging it in and playing through it being sure to wiggle the cable around near each plug and make sure you don't get any crackles or cut outs.Seriously, this process is actually really easy. I just went into detail here because IF your first try doesn't work, you need to be able to troubleshoot where you went wrong. Nothing about making these cables needs to be really precise at all. To summarize, an "eyeball" calibrated perpendicular cut of the cable with good scissors, pinch the cable to a round shape, insert to the plug till it stops (about 1/4" into the barrel portion), snug the screw, check for tip to tip continuity and no tip to barrel continuity, tighten screws until barrel to barrel continuity occurs (screws recessed should be enough).Concerning the sound quality of the cables... I compared these with several other cables I own and I could not tell a difference. The sound was clear, clean, crisp, etc.

I’ve soldered cables for decades. All kinds -video, mic, guitar, etc. I thought I’d try these on my pedal board because i really like the small profile 1/4 jacks.I made 6 of these. The first one took 2x to get it right, the 2,3,4,5 took one time, and the last one took 8x. The last one was very frustrating to say the least.I’m not sure why it took so many tries. I do like them and they sound good.

As per boss they no longer sell the cable to support these tips so if you’re buying these tips to do anything other than small patchwork on a paddleboard you had luck you can’t make any longer cable such as for a snake or anything else with his tips tips

I was foolish enough to buy these for multiple pedalboards with mixed success. Some cables came together easily and the cables worked on the first try. Most of the time these cables do not work, and you blow through a bunch of the spool of supplied cable before MAYBE making a single working cable. It's frustrating to say the least. You are far better off spending your money on a soldering iron, bulk cable, and cable plugs. I plan to as soon as possible, and I regret buying these.

Easy to assemble. Works great. Takes up a lot less room on the pedalboard over standard 1/4" cables. I wish I would have purchased this before wasting all that money on pre-made chords.

Really easy to assemble and looks and feel sturdy when ready. Another awesome Boss product.

This turned out better than I thought it would.Made my pedal board manageable!Thank you!

Don’t buy these. They’re garbage.These cables are awful. The cable shielding bunches up when you insert it into the jack. I’m usually a big fan of Boss products, but this is a ripoff. I’ve used several manufacturers in the past and had great luck, especially with George L. The design of these cables is laughably bad. DONT DO IT. Is there a way to get my money back after cutting so many pieces? No.

Lots of trial and error resulting in wasted wires in the process. Requires precision and patience. Nice quality overall. Should come with custom wire cutter at this price.

Excellent produit et professionnel. Satisfait de mon nouvel achat.