Loraffe Under Hood Rodent Repellent for Car Engines, 12V 24V Ultrasonic Mouse Deterrent with LED Strobe Lights – Mice and Rat Repeller for Truck, RV, Vehicle Engine Protection, Pack of 2

Not working for Indian rodents. Tried in 2 cars from 2 different locations. Only flash lights and no sound. Rodents foot marks observed regularly.

I don't write many reviews. I'm just another real person, buying stuff of Amazon. So the fact that I was moved to leave a review of this product, should tell you something!I'll try to keep it short. about 6-7 months ago, I noticed empty shells, droppings and other rodent evidence under my hood. I cleaned it up, and in the process discovered the little guys worked their way under the engine cover in my 2.5 year old Volvo and started chewing on the wiring. Boy that could have been expensive if I didn't catch it when I did! Luckily they had only chewed through harness tape. I'm handy with cars so I repaired the wiring and decided something needed to be done.And so I embarked on a quest to keep mice out of m engine bay. The thing I learned is, everything works and doesn't work. Most of it is pseudo-science, not any solid prinicples of the "right way" to keep mice away. So here you are reading yet another review. All I can tell you is what worked for me.I tried:Water with peppermint oil/exctract: I soaked the engine bay, put pure drops of the stuff into the foam engine cover, sprayed around the wheel wells and under the car. Smells nice, supposed to offend the mice. Maybe for a day. They came right back. If it does work, it's not for long at all.Serious offense - Rodent Mouse repellent and spice: I purchased a commerical mixed rodent repellent here, peppermint and cinnamon based. Not content to just win a battle, I spiked the stuff with capcisium. That'll teach 'em! I put a little too much maybe, I had to spray the stuff on in a ventilated area and wear a mask, otherwise just the fumes burned my lungs. Clearly that should repel a mouse? NOPE they were right back the next day and every night after. And the mixed smelled awful as it burned off the hot parts underhood after a drive.Sorry but I gotta do what I gotta do - I really hit the end of my rope, and it was me or the mice had to go! I had a feeling the mouse that already lives under the hood won't go so easy as keeping new ones out. So I set up an Owltra electric trap, and put it under the hood overnight each night. Over a week or so, I killed 5 mice. So this kinda work, but it didn't stop them from coming in and pooping everywhere before they found the trap. My car sits outside so I felt like I caught enough of the mice to prove it wasn't just a matter of evicting a "tenant" to solve this problem.And so we come to these things. As ever, there is not any good science behind "ultrasound" bothering mice. Not anything that comes out of a cheap little speaker outside of a lab anyways. Flashy lights seem to be about the same. But I was determined I needed to try everything for myself. Since these come in a 2 pack I installed 2 of them. For me I want a permanent solution so the battery powered devices won't do. These were easy to wire (for me though I am experienced in such things). I put them in places that were convenient but also tried to cover multiple angles and both sides of the underhood area.What can I say...other than since cleaning everything up one more time, and installing these, no a single evidence of rodent activity. It was an every night occurrence before! Now a month in and still clean. I'm analytical, I can't figure why this pseudo-science stuff works. I can only theorize: the underhood area is small, you don't have to cover a whole room, so the flashy lights especially, they must be sufficiently jarring. If you watch these they have a rather random pattern, and that may be key to scaring off the mice. Although you can't hear the "ultrasound" noise, these do make a faint *click* noise when they go through that cycle, and that may be a good thing too. I call it the "mouse disco" and apparently the mice don't like to dance.Five stars on this, it solved a difficult problem. Only criticism I can offer is the wiring, while the "hot" positive side is fused as it should be to prevent short cicuits, the fuse should be as close to the connection as possible, but it's not on this product. So you have 6 inches or so of hot wire that, if it ever rubs through or gets pinched, is going to cause a problem. Hopefully just melt some plastic and whatnot, rather than start a fire under your hood! So be careful routing the wires with this. Otherwise it's a great product, and for me, it WORKS.

I had doubts, but it works. We live in a rural heavily-wooded area and have had rodent incursions more than once, requiring expensive repairs. We’ve used them in both cars for the last three months — and no rodents in the engine compartment. Easy to install. Definitely recommended!

They arrived as scheduled. Easy to install. Seem to work just fine. Good directions. However... I experimented with several different locations under my hood. The conclusion is that they need to be placed where the rats tend to make their nest under my hood; in my case it was directly above the strut, so I placed the device where it was directly within the line of sight of the nest area. At first, I tried to use just one device per car by placing the device in the center of the engine compartment, but that was not directly within the line of sight on either side of the car strut area, so it failed to deter the rats. By using both devices in one car (one on each side of the engine compartment within line of sight of the two strut tops), I was able to annoy the rats enough that they went somewhere else to build a nest. Nowhere in the provided documentation was I able to find this info; I had to experiment to discover this strategy. Recommend that the seller update their documentation.

Fairly thin and small device and it seems to be working so far with no evidence of them returning. I had found mouse/rodent tracks when I had lifted the hood to clean and knew I had better do something before they nested or made an expensive repair bill.So, I bought a pair of the auto powered units rather than going with battery powered units. Having a pretty snug engine bay locating them was a little bit of a challenge so the pair could protect both sides of the engine bay. The wiring kit had to be extended for one of the units as the battery is tucked back under the hood near the driver. There isn't a fuse box under the hood on my brand of car so I had to fashion a power cord from the battery to tie into the pair of units. The power needs are small so I was able to use some electrical wire I already had fusing the wire coming from the battery as it is proper electrical wiring practice and a safety requirement. I slipped this fused power cable inside some heat shrink tubing not shrinking the tubing entirely but only at each end. The heat shrink just serves as an abrasion resistant sleeve or loom for the wiring. I also used a section of smaller heat shrink I fully encased the wiring from the battery to the unit in either the stock sleeve and shrink wrap or sleeving and the power wires I added shrink tubing to.I took my time to make it a professional looking as well as a professional installation. I added a pair of connectors to connect the power wires with the extension for the furthest unit and closest unit to the battery to have one connector so both units can be removed or disconnected from the power without pulling the cover over the battery off.Hopefully these units do the job and last a long time. Feedback on the product was good so I was confident in buying them.Having excess wire in the wiring pigtails supplied would have been better but, I have a pretty good supply of repair and electronic things on hand I didn't need to buy anything for the task. That is an improvement that could be made. Having a wiring pigtail or kir with each one that was 2M long would eliminate the need for a longer stub power harness to bring power to the units improving long term reliability of the power feed by reducing connectors and any splices of one section of wire to another.

I was hoping this would fix it since it seems so cutting edge with a flashing strobe and ultrasonic sound but nothing changed. I had rats eating cables before and even more cables being eaten with more activity after I install these. They work correctly where every minute or two it flashes a little strobe LED and you can kind of hear the ultrasonic sound a little bit And I placed it as good as I could to cover as much area in the engine bay but you can’t cover everything because once the hood shut that light is only going in maybe 20% of the engine compartment. So it was wishful thinking but what a waste of money. The only thing I found that actually works is buying peppermint essential oils in the little Bottles for home air infuser’s at Walmart soaking Q-tips in a bottle with it and then throwing them around the inside of the car and in the engine compartment. I’ve been told that rodents do not like the smell of peppermint and it lasts about 2 to 3 weeks before the smell dissipates, and the rats are back so it’s a solution but you have to constantly do it and the essential oils are about 5 dollars a bottle. I’ve tried traps and they work for a while but then they figure out that their friends are dying or being caught and then they avoid the peanut butter or any other tasty smelly treat that I have tried to put on there. Anyone have any ideas how to keep rats out of your car they actually get into the interior somehow in a 2012 Dodge grand Caravan and a 2000 Suzuki grand Vitara. I used to have a Chevy sonic and they came in through an air duct and made a little nest in the cabin air filter that they annihilated so I don’t know what car manufacturer is doing, but they sure are keeping them rodent proof .