DROKBattery Monitor, Amp Volt Power Watt Meter DC 0-300V 200A STN LCD Display Panel Meter, Current Voltage Energy Capacity Ammeter Voltmeter Multimeter Gauge with Hall Sensor, 2.5m Shielde

Use both the AC and DC meters from this company. These work very well and are about as accurate as you can expect. Perfect, no. But dang close. The voltage is dead on comparing against my 2 flukes. Amperage does appear to fluctuate a bit when compared to my other meters. Unit tends to read a fraction of an Amp off but it is extremely close. My usage is to track AH on my power station and electric riding mower. Much better than just tracking the voltage drop. Little difficult to setup but once setup, work well. First you have to go through the setup config to define the AH of your batteries and the full charge voltage for it to accurately display FULL on the bar graph and AH reading. Once you have that setup, the first time you have to drain and recharge your batteries. This is a pain if you don't typically drain your batteries. If you have a 24AH 12volt battery, the AH meter will just read 0 until recharged to full. Kind of stupid. Otherwise, for the money, this can't be beat.

Compact multi-meter, easy to install. Display is easy to read even with the backlight off. Hall effect sensor makes it easy to measure a circuit with a single +12VDC feed, but multiple grounds (wired and chassis). 20mm hole is plenty big enough for my 4 Ga cable.Readings are close enough to my Fluke that I can use it to keep track of what I need at a glance. Just installed it, so can't yet comment on stability over time. The attached photos are of the meter after calibrating the Hall sensor to zero; then with fans, gas sensor, dash cam and GPS connected (800ma) but no WH yet. (dash cam and GPS on stand-by, so minimum current - solar charging system has battery bank on 13.7V float)This unit came with a printed instruction sheet that is the same one available for download on the Amazon page. Wiring is straight forward for a 12V system, just +12VDC and ground. Button usage and parameter setting is a learning experience, but got it after a few tries.The instruction sheet could be better; phrasing and vocabulary required some translation, and the parameter setting seems incomplete. The instructions describe setting five (5) parameters (see attached photos):AHX XX.X - AmpHour capacity of battery bank, 430.0 in the photoFUX XX.X - Full Voltage for the batteries (U is seven-segment for V), 12.8 in the photoHUX XX.X - High Voltage (over-voltage) for alarm, 15.4 in the photoLUX XX.X - Low Voltage for alarm, 10.8 in the photoHAX XX.X - High Amp (over-current) for alarm, 125.0 in the photoAll good.....but.....there are three more parameters that are not mentioned in the instructions:CUX XX.X - not described, but the reading matches the cumulative energy (WH) as of this photoAAX XX.X - not described, but the reading matches the current as of this photoAUX XX.X - not described, but the reading matches the voltage as of this photoNot sure if these can be set, or if setting them changes anything. Didn't try. Maybe a way to calibrate without disconnecting things, maybe just lazy programmers? Something for the DROK product expert to explain. True fans would like to know.....So, overall, not perfect but worth the money for my installation (if it holds up).

Rewrite of my review: I got some info wrong the first time.There are several settings that are not mentioned in the single sheet manual. I contacted Drok and they explained those are for other features that they do not support so ignore them.The product works pretty well considering the price. I have only used it now for a short time on my golf cart but it appears fairly accurate. (remember, it's only $40).My biggest issue is that I wish the battery remaining % and Ah numbers were bigger. That is an old pair of eyes issue and not so much the fault of the meter. ha ha..Drok says they have used up to a 10m shielded cable to allow the Hall sensor to be located further away.

There were no instructions in the box other than the wiring diag on the sticker on the back so I came here to find instructions which helpful people posted.It is advertised to do what I need.Nevertheless it does not program as expected or indicated. Overall dissspointed.1) I cannot set any Ah value other than “200” and in attempts to change that sometimes it goes to zero. Currently have 3360Wh and soon to be 4560Wh so SOC (notwithstanding it won’t be ‘accurate’ with lithium batteries) with this will never be even close which also affects below:2) cumulative Wh aka kWh keep resetting itself to “0” which is annoying because that’s what I care about the most. Cell booster, USB chargers, lighting, furnace, range hood, water pump, and fan are 12VDC3) Voltage displays 0.2V higher than my SCC and VOM which is annoying. VOM was measured at the screws where power is derived so that should be closer since VOM matches other readouts.4) ordered a “2.5 meter wire” but the extension “wire” is only maybe 15 inches.I have several different Drok 120VAC meters that work fine, but this DC version is dissatisfying, and a 300A DC shunt model started crackling and the screen went blank while programming about two minutes after I connected it.Unfortunately I bought these a while ago (planning ahead) and return window is closed. Trying to figure out warranty.Maybe only a $25 item but I wasn’t planning just to donate money to amazon.