Rust-Oleum 1904A Wolman (Woodlife) CopperCoat Green Wood Preservative-Below Ground, Quart

One quart was enough to treat 29” of six 4x4 cedar posts with 2 coats. This treatment supports a post being set 28 inches deep, which was what I needed for the height of fence that I was repairing. Be sure to coppercoat treat at least 1 inch above the depth you plan to set the post because rot damage as post enters the ground is often most aggressive. Do not treat the entire post - only the part of the post in and near the ground level needs rot defense treatment. Wear protective gloves as recommended on the can. I put each post in a 5 gallon bucket as I brushed on the coppercoat so that any excess that ran off as I brushed was captured for re-use (and to avoid runoff excess causing ground toxicity). I applied two treatment layers with a partial dry time between coats of about a one hour. Make sure to use any small remainder of coppercoat treatment as an extra layer on the post ends and around the area of the post that will be near the soil surface. Those surface areas on the post tend to be the most vulnerable points of attack for posts sitting in the ground for long periods. When setting the treated post, tamping in a small layer of gravel in the bottom of the posthole before setting the post may also help reduce rot risk. Posts set in soggy ground may need more coats for longevity, but I am hoping that these treated replacement cedar posts will, like the originals, last 30 to 40 years before they develop any significant rot weakness problems.

good copper solution for treating woodEasy to apply

...you're just never going to get the penetration you will with a solvent based product. It does repel water when cured but it also raises the grain. So if I want a smooth topcoat with paint and try to sand it some I wonder if I'm knocking most of it off. It tends to stay on the surface of the wood as far as I can tell. But as far as water base products go it's ok.

I used Woodlife wood preservative on leftover construction wood to build a garden gate. After applying it, I lightly sanded the wood and sealed it with three coats of spar urethane, sanding between each.Woodlife acts as a crucial first defense against moisture-related mold and pests, but it doesn’t seal wood from water damage—an additional topcoat is necessary. It’s great for outdoor wood or any wood exposed to fluctuating temperatures and humidity, including house beams (though not for food-contact surfaces).For easy application, I used a spray bottle and let it dry overnight. The clear version dried invisibly. A year later, my gate remains strong, mold-free, and pest-free, despite a design flaw: I didn't shape the wood scraps used in it's construction and they're blocky pieces with perfect flat sides—the top was flat, which caused water to pool. Over time, this wore down the sealant, but Woodlife prevented rot or infestation. I have time to address the issue.The attached pictures show the year-old finished gate as the woodlife had dried, when the gate was installed (nighttime picture), and now (daytime picture). Hope this helps!

Only time will tell how good the product works. Dries very quickly.

This wood preservative was recommended years back by a company that sells porch swings in New Orleans. If it's good enough for New Orleans weather, it's good enough for me. It's done a great job preserving that swing and any other wooden outdoor furniture for us. There's very little change in the wood color and your can apply stain over it. Highly recommend.

Great for inground wood fence post to slow down rot.

I have NOT used, opened or exposed myself to this hazardous product! PPE items are required such as a respirator that blocks hazardous vapors. The use of this item causes harmful & possible deadly results just from the vapors. The precautions were not available when I reviewed this product for purchase. The fault is all mine for not doing complete research. I do not want to keep spending money for such a hazardous product.