Smooth H1H Build Plate for Bambu Lab X2D/A1/X1C/X1/X1E/P1S/P2S/P1P, Flexible Light Beam+Phantom H1H Spring Steel Plate 257x257mm for Bambu Labs Bed Plate

Bed adhesion is good as long as you slow down the print speed. I used a glue stick and only got partial transfer of the color pattern to the initial layer so slowed the speed and printed again without glue and it came out perfect.

This plate works awesome, transfers the effect right on the print and can be used multiple times

While the concept here is cool, they really cheap'd out on the material and fabrication of these plates. These don't just work with the X1C out of the box. There's all sorts of crap you've got to do to get them to even begin to work, and most of the time your prints will fail anyway. It doesn't matter how much you clean these stupid things, either. Even after cleaning with 99% IPA and wearing rubber gloves to handle the plate, it still has about a 10% success rate, and the successes look like crap because it's usually dragging strings around that didn't adhere. These are lazily fabricated. I'd wait until someone is releasing these with QR codes that the X1C recognizes and the adhesion issues have been sorted out. Other prismatic PEI plates that actually work are coated with something that increases adhesion. You can physically feel that these plates do not have that. They are always smooth to the touch, never tacky, which is the opposite of what you want. Yes, I've gone through all the troubleshooting forums online about these stupid things and tried every recommendation. The only time I've had a successful print is after doing the following: 1) Put the textured PEI plate on 2) Calibrate a print to the textured PEI plate 3) Change the plates 4) Turn off the "Enable plate detection" setting (if you don't do this it NEVER works) 5) Set up your print with the Smooth PEI Plate selection 6) Turn on a minimum of 7mm outer brims 7) Increase plate heat to at least 50C 7) Make sure to enable bed leveling and extrusion calibration when sending to the printer 8) Watch closely and MANUALLY REMOVE all of the strings from the hot end that don't adhere to the plate, before it starts printing the part(s) 9) Pray that the first layer adheres 10) Stop print and repeat 9 more times until it works, because it definitely didn't work the first time

No idea how this really works. But it works great.

Started a 30 minute print job and went grocery shopping. Came back, and it’s still in the first 1% auto bed leveling…. Looking like X2D can’t handle the reflective surface of the plate. It’s too bad I was looking forward to the cool prints I’d get on this thing. Edit: I’m updating my review based on the responsiveness of the seller. They have reached out and offered a refund (though they haven’t sent that yet.) They clearly want to figure out what the issues my X2D is having with this plate is, and come to a solution. I haven’t had a chance to test it again, and I’m midway though a 100+ hour print, and I didn’t want to chance printing it on this plate, but I will test further and give a second update if future prints succeed, or fail. Temporarily bumping up to 3 stars, based solely on the excellent impression the seller has given through the chat and their responsive messaging.

I have to say this was a very cool build plate. It left a really cool effect on the surface in contact with it. One thing to realize is you need to treat this build plate as if it was a smooth PEI Build Plate when using PLA in Bambu Studio. Also make sure that when you remove the plastic from the plate after opening that you wash it with warm soapy water and then dry it with a lint free cloth/microfiber. Never touch the build plate surface with your hands as skin oils can lead to failed adhesion. Filament used: -Black PLA Basic X1 Carbon Combo Settings used: -Build Plate Temp: 55*C -Nozzle Temp: 220*C -Top glass vented -Front Door Open -Brim width 5mm -Brim Gap .1mm These settings should work for the mid-tier P1S as well since it shares a similar enclosure to the X1C. These settings will definitely work with the X1E. A1/P1P users will need to find what settings work for them when using PLA and this build plate but it shouldn't be too far off from the other models since both of these models are open frame printers. To sum up, this plate adds cool effects in the print process that opens up new levels of creativity in the end result of your print.

H1H Light Beam Plate: I was gifted one of these for Christmas and had lots of adhesion issues. For anyone having issues with adhesion, read this. I was baffled because nothing I did would help the filament to stick. I cleaned the brand new bed with a rough sponge and soapy water, a washed it on high heat in the dishwasher with no detergent, I cleaned thoroughly with IPA, and each time just got a glob of filament. I also tried, 5 degrees higher on the first layer and 65 degrees on the print bed. Still no dice. The solution for me was that I was using PLA+ and PLA silk instead of plain old cheap PLA. As soon as I switched to plain PLA, I got a decent print with standard settings. Plain PLA with the 5 degree bump on the first layer and 65 degrees for the build plate stuck even better. I hope this may help someone.

Exactly what I wanted. For those parts you want to have a unique finish. Very happy with their brand and customer service!

Had issues with the build plates cupping or liftin up a corner or two even when on the magnetic bed. They worked just fine at PLA temps, but starting at hotter end of PETG I was having issues with the corners lifting from the magnetic base that the printer seemed to be able to push through. When printing ASA/PC the build plate warps to a near unusable state. Weirdly enough I tried some elastics around the levelling knobs and over the corners of the plate and it's eliminated the issue completely. Now that i've printed on it a few times with success it's good and the holo does come through quite nicely. I hade it work, it was still worth buying, but do consider printing temperatures and how magnetic your beds stay at high temperature. Update: vendor sent a replacement and it was somewhat better but still cupped in one direction. Had an idea and found out that an elastic to hold down the corners and it worked extremely well. The patterns come through nicely

First my machine tripped an error, cause it says it’s for Bambu but it’s a generic part. Then the filament would not stick after many attempts