Bulls Eye SealCoat Universal Sanding Sealer

Perfect sealer for MDF. Low voc. Quick dry. Low sheen

First, I never write reviews. I think this is actually the first one I've ever written. But, I thought I'd take the opportunity to part some knowledge on a very particular kind of use for this product for a very particular stain technique, and that is what's called a "dirty wipe."Wood stain is meant to absorb into wood. You apply it, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wipe it off. What is left on the wood are the microscopic pigment particles, which give the stain its color, most of which absorb into the wood. Some of those particles lay on top of the wood even after you wipe the stain off and it dries, but not many off. Most absorb into the wood.Of course, your finally step is to top coat. And here's where problems can and will occur, particularly if you use a dirty wipe technique for applying your stain. A dirty wipe is when you apply a stain, but you do not completely wipe it off, leaving a little bit on the wood to dry. This is usually done to achieve a darker appearance. The more coats of a dirty wipe you do, the more stain dries on top of the wood, and of course, the darker your stain will look. Here is where major league problems can occur.Most oil based top coats, particularly oil based polyurethanes, use the same exact vehicle to apply your oil based stains... solvents, usually mineral spirits. The major problem with this is that solvents are also used to clean and break down oil based stains. Those solvents can severely smear and blotch your stain job. When staining in a normal manner, that is, allowing the stain to penetrate into the wood, then wiping completely off, you have fewer problems using a solvent based poly because those pigment particles are absorbed into the wood, and are "hidden" away into the wood's pores. However, when using a dirt wipe technique, where many of the stain's pigment particles are laying on top of the wood, solvent based poly will do nothing but smear and smudge all those exposed pigment particles, leaving a horrid looking mess.This, is where using this dewaxed shellac comes in. After a dirty wipe stain application, simply apply this product before you use a solvent-based poly top coat. The dewaxed shellac is has very little solvents in it and it will not smear your stain. It will seal it, lock it into place, and provide a barrier between your stain and poly top coat. You can very lightly sand your dewaxed shellac coat with 400 grit sandpaper, then apply your solvent based poly, worry-free, as your top coat is now being laid over the sealcoat, and will not touch or smear/blotch your stain. And viola! a problem solved before ruining your project and stain job BEFORE the problem occurs. This was an EXCELLENT solution to my fears of destroying all of my hard work before I top coatted with solvent based poly.

It seems odd to give 5 stars ("I love it") to a finishing product. I don't love it, of course, but it is indispensable to me in finishing new furniture and in refinishing I am writing this review to give recognition to an excellent product, so that it may remain available. .IMHO the manufacturer under- sells Seal Coat by calling it a universal sanding sealer, although it does deserve each of those words. It is universal. It will adhere to any clean surface I have ever put it on (just get the grease and soap off with 0000 steel wool or 180 grit sandpaper). Every finish will adhere to it. Polyurethanes may not adhere to normal shellac, but they do adhere to Sealcoat. Traces of old silicone furniture polish can ruin a refinish job, but not if you coat it first with Seal Coat. And yes,it sands easily to a silky feel. It makes beautiful grain stand out. Also, it dries hard and odorless in a day, and will not give off a varnish-y smell for weeks. Except for bar tops, table tops, etc it is one of the best finishes you can choose.If you hate to finish furniture, try this quick and beautiful finish for bare wood or refinishing: it has three steps: (1) clean and smooth the old surface (2) brush on a thin coat of seal coat. Let dry for an hour. Sand lightly. (3) wipe on one (or more) coats of polyurethane wiping varnish. Presto.The disadvantages of Sealcoat are that it is more expensive than regular shellac, not widely available (but then there is Amazon) , not good for table tops or bar tops where water or alcohol may stand on it. (That's why a coat of polyurethane over the Sealcoat is a good idea.) Also, compared to the latest water-borne finishes it does smell strongly of alcohol. But it is non-toxic when dry and the fumes are not really toxic like paint thinner and lacquer thinner. Also, it takes a bit of confidence to brush on well because it dries so fast.

I recently purchased two matching antique bed frames made out of wood with a headboard and footboard each. They were quite dirty but otherwise in good shape. After cleaning them up, I wanted to restore the finish and add a layer of polyurethane for extra protection. After researching, I decided to start off with SealCoat since I did not know what the original stain or sealant was made of. I was so glad I found this product after searching "wood sealer" on Amazon, because you can't really find it in stores.This sealant goes on quite easily with a brush, and truly adheres to any surface, coating, or sealant. It also does a magical job of restoring a finish- my project was looking rough after a thorough clean with magic erasers, simple green, and a light sanding. After the first coat, any hazy spots, scratches, or weird water rings completely disappeared and it dried to a beautiful finish.I ended up doing two coats with a light sand (220 or finer) in-between coats. This SealCoat doesn't provide a super durable finish, so I opted to add two coats of water based polyurethane on top. The polyurethane adhered wonderfully to the SealCoat even without sanding. The project turned out great and I'm so happy I found this product which was very easy to use and produced an amazing result.

Did quite well sealing some odor from off gassing adhesive on wood.

No odor and easy to use straight from the can. Latex based with soap and water clean up. Apply with a soft bristle or foam brush. Read the entire can for proper use and instructions.

Easy to use, looks great, reasonable odor - they all smell to some extent.

This is about the same costsas in my local home centers, but it's not always in stock there. It is very easy to apply and seems to last a good while for 1-2 years. The clean up is pretty easy with denatured alcohol and a glass jar. Mistakes are pretty easy to fix, and I like that its basically as food safe as the coating on M&Ms, which basically use a variant of this. Good value for money, and it does seem to dry clear. It also dries quickly. I also like that it doesn't have bad fumes.

Good

Tolles Zeug, nur leider schwer zu beschaffen und dann mit hohen Transportkosten

As advertised

Great product as described and delivered promptly.Unfortunately can has been damaged and removing and replacing lid is difficult.Need better packaging for the future.

Great product. But this is grotesquely overpriced for a quart at 70 bucks. You can get a *gallon* of the same stuff at Home Depot for $74 and change.