Teyleten Robot TMC2209 V2.0 Stepper Motor Driver StepStick 2.5A UART Ultra Silent for Nano SKR V1.3/1.4 Ender 3 Control Board 3D Printer Parts Replace A4988 5pcs

Got these for my Anycubic Mega S and boy what a difference from the original drivers. I followed the advice from the other review below and from the internet, working so far doing a test print as we speak we shall see. Beyond that works great, so far I recommend!

So far so good. Potentiometer, while still fragile, is smoother & easier to adjust than some others I've tried.

I was a little hesitant to order these as they were pretty significantly cheaper than some of the more known brands and had no reviews, but decided to take a chance and I'm glad I did. As seen in the picture, the chip is a TMC2209, not a 2208 like I feared I might get for the price. The board is mostly unlabeled, but the pinout is in the pictures in the product listing and the enable pin is labeled. I currently have them running in standalone mode on a 3d printer (AnyCubic Chiron). I did adjust the Vref before using them as it was not at the value I needed out of the package. The heatsink is nice and large and they really quiet down the printer. I swapped them in for some A4988 drivers and I did have to reverse the motor direction in firmware, but I've also read you can just reverse the motor wire connection also. It is important to note that compared to an A4988, the enable pin needs to. E lined up in the same place, which makes it look like the drivers are reversed compared to the old ones. Unfortunately none of my other printers have removable stepper drivers, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy more of them if I ever blow a driver.

I bought these drivers as a swap in for my ANYCUBIC Mega X's stock stepper drivers because the stock drivers are super loud. Like many 3D printing hobbyist, I YouTubed how to install them but these general videos will not help you with these specific drivers beyond a certain point. Key points that will remain the same for those videos and these drivers: 1) You have to disconnect your stepper motors from the board, pull the plastic input housing off the pins and flip it 180 degrees. Reinsert this housing on the pins. Then flip your cables over and plug them in like that. 2) When adjusting VREF with a multimeter on each driver's potentiometer, each one should be between 1.1V and 1.2V. I did 1.1V for every stepper except the extruder (E0). For that one, I did 1.2V based off of a wealth of research. Okay, that's where the similarities between these drivers and the instructional videos end. The product description says UART or Direct Step are both driver setting options. This is not the case if you have an ANYCUBIC Trigorilla board in your printer because the ability to adjust steps manually does not exist on those boards and is defaulted to 16 steps. So what does that mean? It means if you install them as is in UART mode, your axises will be a hot mess express. My Y axis kept going all the way forward or backwards and just grinding there. My X axis wouldn't move at all. Only my Z axis worked correctly. I scoured forums, videos, and Facebook groups for help and finally found someone who was patient enough to help me figure this out. Basically, to turn UART off and set the driver to direct step mode (which is the mode you need for these printers that use Trigorilla boards) you need to bend 3 pins all the way sideways so they do not insert into the board. (please see attached photos for reference). If you look at one of these 2209 drivers straight on with the 3 copper circles being the top (yellow pins should be on the right), you're going to bend flat out to the side the 3rd, 4th, and 5th pins on the right side. This turns UART off and converts this into a direct step driver. Now you can carry on without the 5+ hours of troubleshooting and confusion that I endured. This process works fine with stock firmware and Knutwurst. I don't run Octoprint or Klipper, but I'd imagine it'd work for those too. Once I'd done this to all 5 stepper motors and turned the printer off and back on, the axises corrected themselves and now all home appropriately with no grinding. Happy Printing!

Great to have a few of these for when you bleep an axis controller. The simplicity of pulling out the old one and slipping in one of these on my SKR 1.4 is great. You don't have to clip any pins for these at least in my case. They do get hot so please wait a few minutes after powering down your printer before touching them or use a hot mit. Also you should use a fan to help offset the heat build while in use. This multi pack is a great value to just keep in your emergency replacement kit for any 3d printer that uses replaceable driver chips.

Solid stepper drivers

Working on a small stepper motor project with two 1.5A motors. I wired up everything but the motors, set my VREF at 1.69V then attached the motors. I started with one or two steps at a time, and both motors moved with no problems. After about 100 steps one of the motors quit working. Checked everything and finally decided to replace one of the drivers. That fixed it, but 10 steps later the one I hadn’t replaced produced a small fireball. To make a long story short, they all ended up smoked within 10-20 steps. My theory is my supply voltage of 24VDC is too high even though the specifications say otherwise. My control voltage was 3.3VDC.

Worked fine, just like it should. I like that the heatsinks are larger than typical.

The heatsink overlaps the pins with a chance of shorting if the adhesive deteriorates, use nail polish on the pins before applying the heatsink, the 5th pin is from the wrong order for UART if you follow the picture above, it's the 4th by default! Pins are both skewed not parallel. Works plug and play on RAMPS 1.4 with Klipper otherwise. You can also invert the VMOT pin to the other side for external 27v power supply for full torque with StealthChop (silent mode)