FIBARO Dimmer 2, Z-Wave Plus Light Controller, Smart Rheostat, FGD-212, Doesn't Work with HomeKit

I gave this thing 5-stars because once you have it working it's really great, but it can be a pain to get working. That's par for the course with these teensy ZWave modules though, and the interface really is as good as it can be given the limitations. Wiring the module in is pretty straightforward. Getting it to successfully pair with my home network was a pain though until I read the instructions. In particular, there is a small recessed button on the back of the module that the manual calls the "B button." If something has gone wrong with the setup, there is a procedure for resetting the device by holding this button until the LED light begins to cycle colors, then when the correct color indicating "factory reset" appears, let go and click it *again* immediately before the light goes off. I had somehow coaxed the module into a bad state, but once I figured out the reset procedure it paired no problem. It's also a little simpler to do the pairing by clicking this button multiple times than toggling the connected switch if you're trying to diagnose a potential installation mistake. Once you get it setup, this thing is jam packed with features. Setting them requires a good interface, but presuming you have that you can adjust a ton of different settings. You can set it to work with a toggle switch rather than a momentary switch, change the dimming characteristics including whether it's leading edge or trailing edge, and read power consumption from the module.

The unit works well, but isn't compatible with a lot of LED bulbs. Calibration fails and the module won't work at all if calibration fails.

From a feature comparison, I like the similar Aeotec dimmer module better.

This is my second attempt to put a relay in a light fixture over my kitchen sink. The first relay I purchased was the Aeotec Nano Dimmer. I have other Aeotec devices, even my SmartThings hub is an Aeotec hub. It worked, until it didn't. Problem is, when a relay that embedded in a fixture doesn't work, you have to reset the relay with the circuit breaker. Both of these ZWave relays are compact and wire up virtually in the same fashion. I fought and fought with my Aeotec Nano to keep it from disconnecting from my network. I went as far as moving the relay to another location that had line of sight to my hub. Still, after about 24 hours it would be offline. I contacted Aeotec support, and pretty much was told, ZWave is hard to troubleshoot. I bought this Fibaro Dimmer relay to hopefully remedy the issue. The installation was identical, it paired with SmartThings on the first try. After about a month now, it's never disconnected from my network. Getting the dimming feature to work was a chore, but it was also with the Aeotec. Now, I can turn the light on and off above my kitchen sink every time. I have this working in conjunction with a Zooz Dual switch (ZEN30), I have the relay portion of that switch running my garbage disposal and the upper toggle switch I disabled the relay function and have it working to signal the Fibaro Dimmer that controls the light. Maybe, if I get brave one day, I'll try and sync the Zooz switch directly to the Fibaro so that it will work like a regular dimmer instead of a scene controller, which is what I'm doing now. Thank you Fibaro for saving the day and making a great ZWave dimmer relay.

While the piece itself might be great, the spec info in this page was wrong. "Voltage" was clearly written at 240V in the amazon product page but once I received it it was 120V! Now this piece is just hanging around as a decoration piece in my place...

i bought this because the switch I wanted to replace with a smart switch did not have a neutral wire and I didn't feel like having an electrician come in. The device is more expensive than the switch I had purchased, but I figured if it saves me on an electrician so be it. the documentation isn't the best. I recommend going to the web site to see the full documentation and handily enough, a few videos too. In my case, my old non-smart switch had two screw posts on the side and the wires connecting direct to them, so I needed to dig up some wire. If you're also doing a 2-wire setup, you'll need a jumper between N and SW. Because the holes to jam the wire in aren't the biggest, it can be tough getting them in. No matter how hard I screwed it in, wires kept popping out, which was frustrating. I'm not a fan of those connectors! Once I managed to get it in, I set it up with Smartthings, installed a custom device handler (someone posted earlier as to its location) and now am dealing with it blinking and throwing a voltage error when the bulbs are 'cold'. I have two dimmable LEDs in the lamp and after not starting for a bit, they blink a few times then never start up unless I flick the switch on and off a lot. Not ideal, and I realize its something in the settings plus the LEDs that need tweaking, but I really wish it just worked. I don't know if I'd buy this again due to the headache of it all, but there's really little choice if you don't have neutral wires.

Does leading edge (like most dimmers) and trailing edge (what’s best for most LED lights). It can dim my bulbs from 100% to 1% without the bulbs creating any noise. It’s also highly configurable and provides a ton of information. I’ve tried a bunch of lamps & bulbs and overall this is probably the best dimmer I’ve ever used. Is it worth the money and hassle? For me it’s worth it for important lights. If you’re someone looking for a plug and play solution this probably isn’t it. Edit: Forgot one important thing: unlike some other devices of this type, this one is UL listed.

Disappointed manual and tech support confirmed it needs a 10a breaker something just not available in US homes. Too bad was a rather nice product (needs to support AC switch inputs to be perfect).

Works as expected, great switch for installs that have no neutral wire.