DROK AC Meter, AC 80-300V 100A Voltage Current Power Factor Frequency Electric Energy Monitor Ammeter Voltmeter Multimeter Tester 110V 220V Digital Color LCD Volt Amp Watt Detector Reader Panel

Easy to install.

works as it should and def is great for know the wattage and info of the stuff your using

I have a pretty decent sized generator for running my house when we loose power (it has happened 3 times in the last month alone :( ). I have a 50 amp power hook-up in my garage that backfeeds my breaker panel through a generator breaker with the main breaker interlock. I thought my generator had a power meter on it to see how loaded it is, but it didn't. Being in the boonies, we have no gas service of any kind so everything is electric in the house. With the 50 amps, we can run anything, but can't run it all at once, so we need to stage certain things on. I made a little power meter panel with these so that I can tell how much we are pulling to see if I need to turn stuff off to run other stuff. These work great so far. They seem pretty accurate and were pretty easy to install. As other reviews have said, it would be nicer if the current sensor wires were a little longer. Wasn't a big deal for this project since I was able to make it into some terminal blocks and then ran from there with a longer wire, but I can what a pain for a couple cents worth of additional wire. The only other complaint I had was that a cutting template or at least some dimensions would have been nice for making the panel opening. I had to wing it and did ok, but still wound up with a small gap on one side of the screens. The screen rim is pretty small so you can't be more than 2 mm off with the hole size.

Everything worked right out of the box.

The purpose of this review is to clarify what a lot of others have implied but (to my knowledge) have not explicitly said: You do NOT need to have a neutral when hooking up an American 240v appliance (two-pole breaker) which does not use a neutral (ex AC, mini split, hot water tank, etc), and you CAN put both the hot wires into the two terminals on this meter without it melting. In fact, you should do that for it to measure kilowatt hours accurately. For measuring power usage you have to look at watts (not amps) because the city uses kilowatt-hours (not amp hours), and amps are misleading on two-pole 240v applications, because: Amps x volts = watts So a 240v appliance will use TWICE as many watts than a 120v appliance, even though the amps will measure about the same on either the 240v or the 120v appliance. The other reason to look at watts instead of amps is something called Power Factor. You can google this, but not every appliance uses 100% of the amps it pulls, at least not right away. If I understand correctly, this multi-meter takes power factor into account when calculating the kilowatts, but cannot account when measuring amps. So amps are neat and everything, but ignore them if you're calculating cost. So, on a regular 2-pole breaker (not a GFCI breaker), take a wire from one hot terminal (L1) of your breaker and wire-nut together: 1) this wire from your breaker (L1) 2) the wire going to your appliance, 3) a 3rd wire going to a terminal on this meter. Take a wire from the other hot terminal on your breaker (L2) and do the same thing: 1) this 2nd wire from your breaker (L2) 2) the other hot wire going to your appliance, 3) a 3rd wire going to the other terminal on this meter. The last thing to note, make sure you put the current transformer (CT, i.e. the "donut") around the wire traveling to your appliance from the wire nut (not the wire traveling to this meter from the wire nut), or else it will not measure properly. I hope this helps someone.