YMDK Idobao x ID75 75 Keys Ortholinear Layout VIA Anodized Aluminum Case Plate hot-swappable Hot Swap Type C PCB Mechanical Keyboard Kit (Black)

Une dizaine de jours pour recevoir ce clavier de niche en Belgique depuis la Chine. Bien emballé, rien à redire, les capuchons commandés à part ont été placé dans la boîte. Et pas de surprise de frais supplémentaires, j'avais quelques craintes car j'avais acheté un TypeMatrix 2030 il y a quelques années et les frais de douanes avaient quasiment doublé le prix d'achat.Une fois monté, je trouve que le clavier à un look très sympathique. Les led ont un petit effet discret et joli au niveau de la base, avec la petite couche de plexiglas, je vous renvoie à la photo. Mais il n'y a pas de led par touche. Pas vraiment intéressant de prendre des capuchons qui laissent passer la lumière, donc. J'avais déjà une expérience de clavier orthogonal avec un TypeMatrix 2030, mais je voulais passer à un clavier mécanique. Je ne suis pas déçu. Une fois configuré avec une disposition proche de ce à quoi j'étais habitué, je retrouve déjà mes marques moins de 24 heures après réception du clavier.Le clavier est vraiment très compact. J'ai placé des switches cherry mx red silent, et le clavier est vraiment très discret tant au niveau de l'espace qu'au niveau sonore. Malgré sa petite taille, il a tout de même un poids assez conséquent, mais ça n'est pas un problème, au contraire, ça donne une impression de solidité, et le clavier est très stable.Le clavier vient avec deux pieds qu'on peut fixer à l'arrière. À noter qu'une fois fixé, il faut ouvrir le boîtier si on veut les enlever. C'est donc un choix à faire. Ayant l'habitude de mettre mon clavier à plat sur le bureau, je ne les ai pas placé et ça me convient parfaitement.Concernant le montage, le clavier ne vient avec auctune notice ni explication. Cependant, on trouve facilement des vidéos sur youtube, j'ai donc réussi à monter le clavier sans trop de difficulté, il faut juste un peu de patience.Je précise quand même pour les distraits : le clavier est livré en kit et n'est pas complet. Il faut compléter l'achat avec des capuchons (keycaps) et des switches à votre goût.Out of the box, le clavier est directement compatible avec VIA. Mais je préfère les firmware QMK. Et là, j'ai pas mal galéré. Il existe plusieurs modèles de claviers estampillés ID75, ce qui rend la tâche complexe. Tout d'abord, ne pas confondre les marques idobao et ymdk. Même s'ils se ressemblent très fort physiquement, les PCB ne sont pas du tout les mêmes. Celui ci est donc bien un "YMDK ID75". Pour le flasher, il faut un firmware au format .uf2. Malheureusement, les firmwares que j'ai compilés directement sur le site QMK config en choisissant le clavier "YMDK/ID75/F103" ne sont pas compatibles. J'ai finalement trouvé un post reddit qui mentionnait le problème, j'ai dû installer tout l'environnement de développement pour compiler le firmware moi-même, et surtout télécharger la source firmware pour ID75 avec MPU RP2040, différent du id75/F103. Ne connaissant pas grand chose sur le sujet, je dois reconnaître que ça n'a pas été super évident, mais je suis finalement parvenu à flasher des dispositions différentes de l'originale et j'ai enfin ce que je voulais.J'enlève une étoile pour le manque de documentation officielle, que ce soit dans la boîte ou en ligne. Un autre point de galère pour flasher l'appareil, c'est le bouton reset qui n'est pas accessible une fois le boîtier fermé. Au départ, ça n'était pas un problème, il faut maintenir la touche supérieure gauche (Esc) tout en branchant le câble usb, et le clavier passe en mode flash. Sous Windows, le clavier est reconnu comme un nouveau device quand on est dans ce mode, l'explorateur de fichier apparaît automatiquement, il suffit alors de glisser le firmware uf2 dans l'explorateur : la fenêtre se ferme, et le nouveau firmware est directement opérationnel. Suite à l'installation d'un firmware un peu foireux, je ne pouvais plus passer en mode boot avec cette procédure. Seule solution : démonter le case, repérer le mini bouton reset à l'arrière du pcb, et le maintenant enfoncé tout en branchant le câble usb pour pouvoir repasser en mode boot et flasher un autre firmwareMaintenant que j'ai un peu d'expérience, j'ai prévu une touche KC_BOOT sur un layer secondaire, ce qui me permet de passer en mode Boot sans devoir débrancher le câble avec une simple combinaison de touche. Mon conseil : ne fermez pas le clavier avant d'être sûr que vous n'aurez plus besoins de l'ouvrirAu final : je ne regrette pas mon achat. Je déplore juste que ce type de clavier soit si difficile à trouver, surtout en Europe, et qu'il soit si difficile de trouver les infos pertinentes pour le configurer. Et même avec les infos, j'ai envie de dire que ça n'est pas à la portée de tout le monde, il faut être capable d'éditer des fichiers en langage C. Rien de difficile, mais ça peut effrayer. Cependant, sachez que le vendeur est de bonne volonté et très réactif. Il m'a proposé son discord pour m'aider dans la configuration, mais comme j'étais parvenu à mes fins par moi-même, j'ai laissé tomber.

あまりにシンプルな構造で感動。組み立て簡単。自作機&オーソリニアデビュー。半田付けなくてありがたい。Viaはうまくいきませんでしたが、より多機能のVialが使えたので、タップダンスなども設定できて、配列沼にハマりそう。PCBが、仕様変更なのか画像のものとは違いましたが、スイッチ側にも75個のLEDが組み込まれてました。なくても困らないけど地味に嬉しいかも。これでワイヤレスならもう言うことなしの大満足。いずれ、ID48とか作ってくれませんかね。【追記】両端が Type-C になっているケーブルはPCBがサポートしていないので使えないそうです（YMDKに確認済）。MacBook などで使用する場合、Type-C,Type-A のケーブルに A to C の変換コネクタをかませて使うほかないようです。ちなみに、パソコン本体側を A コネクタにしないといけません。反対につなぐと、これも認識してくれません。そんなこととはつゆ知らず、何本か無駄なケーブルを購入してしまいました。似たようなこと考えてる人はご注意あれ。

So far I'm exceptionally happy with the results from this. It works right out of the box with VIA and QMK with no problems. It shows up as a normal Idobo 75 (though I assume it's a knockoff, ultimately the difference is probably moot.) I had zero troubles customizing it in software (though a lot more trouble figuring out how to actually design my own custom layout, haha.) The case is a lot heavier than I would have expected from aluminum (it feels more like steel to me, but it's definitely aluminum) and perhaps a bit excessive, but it does work well and no doubt helps that extra bit more in preventing the keyboard from sliding around. I did find that the rubber bumpers that came with it didn't like to stick though. I had to replace them with some of my own as one not only came loose but was completely lost right off the bat. The LED effect is customizable, so if you're like me and don't want it to be excessively bright as per the default it's easy to tone it way down or turn off entirely. You can also change the colors in several ways and use effects like "breathing" if you're so inclined, though I find most such effects to be distracting and single color simplicity to be best.Space on a 75 is a bit limited of course. Do bear that in mind when picking this out. However, ortholinear key formats are not common or easy to find, so this is actually among the highest you'll normally see (60 or even 40 is much more common for ortholinear.) Watch out for keycaps too. They're often designed for the usual staggered layout and don't necessarily fit comfortably in a linear layout out of their originally intended positions. I also found the typical multi-switch keycaps (like shift/etc) wouldn't even fit across two keys (though with a 75 I didn't actually want to give up keys anyway, there were just a couple I wanted to do this way and none would fit across two.) The linear design necessarily puts the switches a bit further apart than on a staggered layout and > 1 switch keycaps not explicitly designed for an ortholinear aren't going to work. This is not a fault or flaw of this particular kit, just differences in designs that one needs to be aware of.As a side note, as someone mentioned the USB port can be a bit loose. The solution to this is actually really simple and since I did it I've had zero problems. Before you actually put the board in, use some needle-nose pliers or a medium-fine hemostat to just very slightly bend the top and bottom of the casing near the middle very slightly inward. (Just a tiny bit mind you.) This makes the connection hold much more tightly and I haven't had a single accidental disconnect event since I did this. It really is best to remove the board if possible because the port can bend a bit off the board, but if you're very careful you can do it while it is in place without removal (a finer hemostat is probably necessary then as pliers are just too big.)Initially I had thought it sat completely flat. I even cut and drilled some pieces of wood to attach to the bottom. Somehow I did not see that, within the package, are two little black feet that can indeed screw into the bottom. Thus you have both the option of it sitting flat or not by whether or not you screw in the feet (though they go in from the bottom of the case, so you have to remove the bottom plate of the case to attach them. The feet are rather nice too. They have a heavy metal casing that gives them a bit of weight but a soft rubber ball in the middle to keep the keyboard from moving around. Much better than the stick-on bumpers in fact. I guess the only complaint I have about that is they're stuck in the packing foam rather than simply placed in the bag with the other loose parts (which I feel would make more sense.) This is more of a nitpick than anything however.UPDATE: I had a minor issue where sometimes when I turned on the PC the keyboard wasn't working until I unplugged and replugged it a few times. I began to suspect the issue was maybe in the bootloader maybe coming up in debug mode or something and I flashed the official VIA Idobo firmware from VIA's website (caniusevia) and it has since worked right off the bat every single time. If you have the same issue try that. Just flash with the QMK Toolkit from the QMK site.UPDATE2: I have since had zero issues. I've also learned that all you need to do to use QMK and still have VIA support (handy for adjusting lighting on the fly if nothing else) is export your JSON keymap from the QMK creator online as usual, convert to a keymap.c with "qmk json2c jsonfile.json -o keymap.c", move that into the home folder's idobo\keymaps\via and then just compile otherwise normally with "qmk compile -kb idobo -km via". However, you can also create a custom folder (I named mine just custom) with your own rules.mk file that says "VIA_ENABLE = yes" in it somewhere to keep the original VIA setup clean and then just compile with -km custom (or whatever you named it) instead. There are extra rules you can set such as disabling extra light effects to save storage space on the board's main chip (which is very very limited,) so a custom setup is actually a good idea. This way you have the best of both worlds, but VIA support does use a bit more storage, so if you don't need VIA at all just use QMK with a custom layout without that VIA_ENABLE rule set to yes.EDIT: Coming back to this a while after I've learned more about custom keyboards it seems like this kit may actually be a truly excellent deal indeed. Aluminum cases in general tend to cost quite a bit more than the PCB+case combo here would seem to have. The general build quality of the case is quite good and pretty spill resistant among other things. It does make putting in switches a lot harder -- particularly you have to be really careful as you insert them to not bend the thinner lead on most switches. I found the best way to put them in is straight down with a bit of pressure towards the top and wiggling clockwise and counter-clockwise a bit as I go until it snaps in. Once put together it has a very good sound without any hollow echoing like you'd get from some plastic cases. You don't even need much padding if you want to go silent (though it still doesn't hurt by any means.) The PCB is exceptionally well supported by QMK and VIA without jumping through any hoops or using any beta builds or anything. Coming back to this with what I know now I feel even more than before like I got a truly excellent deal with this kit.

メーカーサイトからダウンロードできるマニュアルに掲載されていたURLからVial対応のファームウェアがダウンロードでき、これを書き込むことで Vial で設定ができるようになりました。Layer, Macro, Combo の数を十分多く設定されてあり、このファームウェアで満足いくと思います。真ん中にアクリル板を挟む構造ですが、これを除く、もしくはこれをバックプレートと考えて、付属のバックプレートをやめると高さをだいぶ抑えることができます。ただしアクリル板を無しにした場合はバックプレートがUSB端子に干渉するので、ヤスリ等で細工が必要です。その他注意点としては、・トッププレートのスイッチ取り付け穴がギリギリの大きさで、スイッチの取り付け、取り外しがとてもキツいです。(使用スイッチは Kailh Deep-Sea Silent PRO)・トッププレートの消音性がかなり悪く、叩くと大変音が響きます。裏面に細く切った鉛製の防振テープをまんべんなく貼って対応しました。・同様にアクリル板、バックプレートも音が響きやすいので、それぞれ消音措置をした方が打鍵音が良くなると思います。買ったままのキットでは完璧を求めることは難しいですが、色々手を加えてやることで唯一無二の15x5 Ortholinear キーボードになると思います。自作を堪能してみてください。:)

As is, out of the box this is a great board kit at what I think is a fair price. Just add switches and key caps and be happy. I decided to try Gateron Milly Yellows because they are pre-lubed and I never see myself hand lubricating a set of switches. With those and some XDA shine through pudding caps, this board feels and sounds great. It's remarkably quiet. The firmware that it shipped with had VIA and VIAL support for key-mapping, macros, LED lighting etc. Though in my case VIA could not adjust the underglow, VIAL could though.This next bit was a mistake on my part. I had thought that the product I ordered came with per key LEDs. Here on Amazon ONLY the Clear Acrylic case version has per key LEDs.If you go to YMDK's website you can have them add LEDs to any case configuration. Might be a better option if you don't want to do all the work to add them yourself. Still I had the sk6812 mini-e LEDs on hand from another project so I decided to install them.I will add some helpful tips that I wish I had before starting the modification.1: The LED order appears to be last to first on the keys. So bottom right to top left if you are looking at the board face up. See last pic where I have an LED in the first and last key spot and the last key lights up but not the first.2: The orientation of the LEDs. If looking at the bottom of the PCB, the GND pin is going to be bottom left. (pin with the triangle) If you look really closely at the PCB you can see in the silk screen that this solder pad is slightly rounded.3: There is a zero ohm resistor that acts as a jumper to allow the underglow only versions of this kit to work. See 2nd to last pic. When you get all the key LEDs in the underglow will stop working unless you remove this resistor/jumper.Some other things to watch out for. There are 2 different possible micro controllers you might get if you order this according to YMDK's website. A newer RP2040 (Raspi Pico) or as I have Geehy-APM32F103. Only the APM32F103 version is in the upstream QMK firmware. This information is only useful if you plan on re-flashing the firmware. If you get a RP2040 version. I believe you will need to ask YMDK customer support for the source code and binary file. I have heard they don't like to give that out even though the GPL license to use QMK firmware states that they must.So overall, the hardware is good. Decent price. Solid build quality. I would recommend this to keyboard people, ortholinear fans, DIYers and QMK enjoyers.