EVANS Cooling Systems EC53001 High Performance Waterless Engine Coolant, 128 fl. oz.

Perfect

I replaced my Motorex coolant for this product and my Husky 300i bike didn't steam ever since. Love it. I now recommend it to anyone that has a two stroke.

نسيت الحرارة وفوران الرديتر مع هذا المنتج صحيح غالي لكن اعتبره استثمار في سيارتك راح يسلمك من خساير استهلاك الحرارة لليات والمكينة وبقية القطع فورد تورس 2013 ... علبتين مع واحد موية مقطر

I bought this for my Diesel g wagon. I'm heading to South America and I like the idea of low pressure in my cooling system, my thoughts are less stressful on the hoses and rads, I haven't put it in yet.

Exellent but to expencive

I'm running Evans in two Honda Civics with the goal of reducing intra-cooling system pressures. The Evans alternative to conventional anti-freeze won't boil unless reaches 375F, and, of course if it ever did, you'd already have experienced catastrophic failure... In normal operation, it creates no steam pressure and thus will not pass thru my 16 psi radiator caps - UNLESS the coolant level is too high in the top of the radiator tank. While it doesn't create steam pressure, it does create hydraulic pressure, which is to say that the liquid will expand by (they tell me) about 7% when it heats up to say 200F. If it got filled up to the top of the radiator neck, the expanding fluid will push through the pressure cap and go into the overflow reservoir - from which it will NOT get sucked back by the differential in pressures that moves regular coolant back and forth. If you did fill up the radiator tank, the Evans will overflow until it finds its own level inside of the radiator top tank. In the case of my vehicles, one found its level approximately 0.5" below the inner flange of the neck; the other leveled out at about 0.75" below... (Normally, I run coolant right up to the reservoir overflow tube, so this Evans characteristic was initially puzzling and quite different.) For my stock performance vehicles - which never heat up unless there has been a systems failure - the merits are as follows... First, I'm hoping that the lack of steam pressure build-up will mean that the cheapo plastic radiator tanks that Honda uses will no longer explode at the seams. Ditto the coolant hoses. (Whether multiple previous failures have been due to internal pressure, or expansion-contraction fatigue is uncertain, but I'm confident that the risk of failure using Evans is substantially lower. Additionally, I like that: the coolant is non-toxic to pets and it supposedly will never age out and allow internal corrosion. A bonus on Civics like mine is that those systems only have a cooling system capacity of 1.1 gallons, so the additional cost of running Evans is insignificant, especially when compared to the price of blown head gaskets that can result from cooling system failure. The merits for motorcycles should be similarly appealing. On my classic truck powered by a SBC, the merits would be the same but would also include an ability to continue conducting heat out of the motor even if the system spirals up into the anxiety inducing 240-260F range where coolant cavitation can cause internal hot spots that can result in engine failure. That SBC system uses in excess of 5 gallons of coolant, so I'm waiting for the next coolant change cycle before making the switch, but nevertheless, even at 5 x $45 (plus the prep fluid costs), the cost is modest when compared to the costs of catastrophic engine failure that is more likely to occur when using conventional coolant... On the conversions that I've done, after the preliminary coolant drain, I opened the heater core valves and removed the engine thermostats and used a small shop vac to blow coolant out of the systems. I probably ran the shop vac for 30 minutes, but might have gotten by with less time. Regardless, my subsequent coolant "refractometer" tests showed that I had successfully reduced the water content of the systems below 1% water, which is well below their recommended maximum level of < = 3% water.