NOYITO 0-5A AC Current Detection Sensor Module Switch Output (DC 5V, Green)

Working perfectly, tried to use it to detect the AC blower for boost fans on/off. The hole for current detection is too small

The five volt power supply connector shown product page shows a little white plastic box on the circuit board, to guide the two little female wires inside a white plastic plug into position. The product I received did not have that little white plastic box - and the two wire power wire did not have that white plastic plug. It was just two pins sticking out of the board, for ground and 5 volt VCC, and two even more tiny little female plugs, one on the end of each wire. They do not make a firm connection. One of the wires attached enough to not simply fall out if the board was held upside down, and the wire did not even hold that well. Looks like they saved a couple more cents on the product, since taking the image shown on the product page. I've jury rigged a tighter connection by fattening the two pins sticking up from the board with a bit of solder, and glued the wires even tinier two little female plugs holding the power wires onto the board. I don't yet know if that will work ... it might. This is on the 5 volt variant. I will be using this to control a 5 volt Noctua fan (from my ample supply of computer parts) to cool the evaporator coils on a Midea WHS-65LB1 Compact Refrigerator when the condenser motor is running, without blowing room temperature air over the same area that should be cooler than room temperature when the condenser motor is not running. I want the fan to come on only when this board senses the 1 amp 120 volt A/C on the hot wire side of the power feeding the Midea's condenser motor. The evaporator coils are hidden in the left side (looking from the front) of that model refrigerator. When the condenser motor is running, one can feel that left side wall of this refrigerator get perhaps 20F degrees hotter than room temperature, which is how I know that the (otherwise well hidden) evaporator coils are hidden in that wall. The fan will be blowing on a large rectangular passive heat sink that I will be gluing directly to the bare aluminum of that wall, with thermally conductive glue, after first scraping off the thermally resistant paint in that location. The cooling cycle should be more efficient, cooling quicker, with this fan blowing there, and the refrigerator should not be having (warmer than inside the refrigerator) air blowing on its left wall when the motor is off.

This is a great little product that I used to turn on my CD and DVD players when this product detected my stereo being turned on.

I purchased this to repair / modify a smart outlet strip and was very happy to find this on Amazon. The first problem when I got it was that the layout around the relay output is surrounded by the signal side ground plane (no safety spacing per UL or IEC requirements). So it will eventually fail from a flashover from the relay line side to the low voltage control circuit, which was no good for me since I was powering it from my PC USB port. But, I was able to take the relay off board and use it that way without the PCB carrying the relay power contact circuits. Another note: the Vref on the board is just a resistive divider, so if your power supply moves around much, your trigger point is going to change. I hope this supplier redesigns with proper creepage and clearance spacing for 250VAC.

Used in a customer freeze protection circuit to let customer know if heating element came on. Works fine.

Quit Working after 3 Weeks.

Nice that everything you need is on one card. I don't know how it sells for such a low price!. One thing might be to have an item in the data sheet that tells you which to turn the bias potentiometer to increase or reduce the actuation current level. I did it by trial and error.