UHPPOTE Wired 12/24VDC Sound and Light Alarm Warning Strobe Siren Horn Sound Alert Safety System Sensor

My son has been fascinated with fire alarms ever since his first fire drill at school. Rather than have him want to pull a pull station there, I made him his own fire alarm with this siren/strobe and a pull station, and a bit of custom circuitry in between. The siren is loud enough to be uncomfortable when in the same room, but not intolerable. The lights are just standard red LEDs, not particularly bright. But when it gets 12 volts, it lights up and makes sound, not bad for the cost. I was particularly surprised that in fire-truck mode, as the pitch goes up and down, the flash rate of the LEDs changes as well. It was the cheapest siren/strobe I could find, and it worked just fine for my needs.

This thing puts out the sound, omg, so loud. Perfect for all the rug rats in our day care to wake up and start crying. Keeps the fire marshal from shutting us down, and if there ever was a fire, the Lawyers aren't going to say we didn't have a loud enough alarm. Great product only if you have the correct power supply, don't be fooled into thinking that you can cut up an old phone or device low voltage and get it to work correctly, you need the right power.

It works perfect my only issue is it does not come with any wires nor is it pre-wired ready to install. Instructions are vague and confusing. I had to search for instructional video on YouTube to get it right. It’s not wired the traditional positive and negative... it if you wire that way it will sound off continuously. It’s crossed wired . I’m no electrician but I do light electrical and it confused me and a friend that does electrical work.

I have tried several things to keep raccoons out of an upper storage area. I had some boards and plywood stored there, and they ruined it all. Let alone the "trinkets" they leave behind, and the smell.I saw this and thought it might be a solution to my problem. A loud siren and flashing lights might work.I mounted one of these sirens to a plastic ammo box along with an outside light motion sensor, toggle switch, and night light. Inside is 110VAC to 24VAC transformer. The sensor detects motion, powers the transformer, and the alarm goes off. The sensor is set for minimum time and maximum sensitivityThe switch is to turn off the 24VAC to the alarm, and the night light goes to the output of the motion sensor. Turn off the switch to test the area or if you need to do something that would set it off.It has gone off, usually times between dusk and 3AM or so.I have yet to re-clean out the scat from up there to find out ow well it is doing, but I have hopes. As I said- it is an ear blaster.

Sounds quality really sucks!! I mean really. Regret taking the cheaper route with this purchase........ On the good side, shipment was right on time and wiring was shoe tying simple. ( comes with nothing, but instructions).

My wife runs a home based preschool. As part of the county requirements we were required to install a Fire pull station and Siren. We purchased the UHPPOTE Pull station and Siren.Let me first state that after 5h of troubleshooting the siren works flawlessly. So for the product itself, it is 5 stars.The problem is that there are no wiring diagrams and it does not easily pair with the corresponding UHPPOTE pull station. Here is what I learned so that you dont have to figure it out yourself: The siren will work with any 12-24v DC power supply, but it is polarized meaning that the positive wire needs to go to the positive terminal. If it doesn't work, then switch the wires. If you're going from a power supply directly to the siren it will work flawlessly instantly. However, when you add the pull station in to the mix, it will not function correctly using any of the online instructions. The online instructions instructions tell you to take the negative wire and run it directly to the sirens negative terminal, while the positive wire is run into the pull station's positive terminal, then you run a wire from the pull stations negative terminal to the sirens positive terminal. The circuit is simple, logical, and easy to understand... and doesnt work. When you pull the alarm the siren partially lights up, but does not audibly workThe problem is that there is a small circuit board in the pull station that lights an LED light. It's a simple circuit board with a few resistors and capacitors on it. The problem is that this circuit board cuts the amount of power sent to the siren to the point that the siren will not function correctly. I tried with power supplies ranging from 12-24v with both positive and negative tips and could not get it to work using the user diagrams online. This leads me to believe that the circuit board has recently changed as the reviewers on YouTube clearly got it to work.The solution is easy - bypass the circuit board and use only the switch in the pull station. From your power supply connect the negative wire to the negative terminal on the siren. Then from your power supply connect the positive wire to the one of the switch wires (put them together in the screw down block), then take a wire from other switch wire out to positive terminal on the siren. The LED no longer works but the siren DOES work - and that is what is important here. See the photo in this review to see the wiring at the pull station

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This alarm works, however I don’t recommend it for several reasons:1. This is not UL listed2. It’s a knock-off of the SpectrAlert Classic3. This alarm isn’t that loud4. It randomly failed on me but then started to work again. Still have no clue what happened to it.5. Honestly just buy a normal SpectrAlert Classic or another alarm. This isn’t a good product