NEW BILSTEIN FRONT & REAR SHOCKS FOR 99-14 FORD F53, GAS PRESSURE SHOCK ABSORBERS, MOTORHOME BASE 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014

The ride quality on my 2000 Winnebago Adventurer (with a F53 chassis) was getting kind of harsh and I knew that the shocks had to be dead so I decided to replace them with Bilstein shocks. These shocks improved the ride significantly and I think the ride is better than when I first bought the coach in ‘05. I have air tools so the job was straight foward other than having to contort my self to reach some of the bolts which were at arms reach. My regular 1/2” air impact is heavy (6.6lb) and was cumbersome to use when holding it at arms reach while contorted around the Frame and suspension. I found that a composite shortie 1/2 impact wrench was perfect for this job since it is compact and only weighs 2.5lb. The shock bolts are 3/4-10 and require a 1-1/8” socket or wrench. The torque specks from my f53 chassis manual were 260 lb-ft for the front shock both top and bottom. The rear shock was 259 lb-ft top and 46 lb-ft bottom. I don’t know why the rear bottom is so low, but I’ve seen these torques referenced in multiple places.

Fit my 2006 F53 chassis as designed. Helped with sway and ride quality.

They were a great value for the money. They installed and fit perfectly. I would highly recommend the seller.

These fit my 2011 F53 perfectly and provided an amazing difference in ride. Wow. I wish I had purchased these when I purchased my Class A F53, it would have made a world of difference driving. For DIY you will need a hefty 28mm socket and 3/4" ratcheting wrench and a 28mm (open/box) wrench for this!

This installation isn't for the weak of heart. Bring your muscles to bear on this project if you are doing it yourself. The F53 motorhome chassis that I worked on was 20 years old with totally dead shocks. The problems were that the factory installed the shocks without the 'home' part on top of it and Crushed the tightening of the nuts to about 150 ft lbs of torque. So I needed a 3 ft breaker bar just to loosen them and then proceed to slowly remove each shock. The underneath area around each shock was very limited and I could have used a shop trench to get more working space. My tools included 24V powered 1/2" drive, (2) SAE 1/2" drive 1 1/8 sockets (instead of the 28mm which is too tight), 1 1/8 ratcheting wrench which you will need both the open end and the box end, a 1 ft length 1/2" ratchet, 2 ft length 1/2" torque ratchet, 1 1/8 deep socket for when the bolt is extended deep, a small floor jack to raise the shocks up under pressure to fit bolts in place, penetrating fluid which should be saturated into each nut and left to penetrate overnight. The bolts and nuts are harden steel so you won't be stripping them under high torque. The slower you take it the easier it will be. There were no easy access points except for the front shocks lower mounts. Wheel removal would be ideal here but then you're looking at re-torquing all nuts. The rear looks easy but the area around it is cramped. So 2 days later after what seems to have been a cross country hike, getting into all kinds of contortionated positions, I took the motorhome for a drive. It seems a mixed bag in that the shocks may have stopped the 'slamming' over bumps but the rocking of the motorhome only diminished about 50%, even with 2" sway bars. Note that the rear shocks # 24-234528, are stiffer than the front # 24-234511 and I now think they should be used on the front as well. 400 dollars later, it's better than the dead shocks. Just a heads up for you DIY people wanting to save the installation cost and possibly stiffing the sway using all 24-234528 shocks.

Like I said if you got all 4 shocks it might be a good product. I guess I over reacted. The other two showed up today. Wouldn't you think Amazon would have said something about maybe arriving in two different days.

Fit perfectly on a 2002 winnebago sightseer with ford f53 chassis

Decent ride for the price