SadolinExtra Durable Woodstain Dark Palisander 0.5 L

In my never ending saga of renovating my house I dug out a bank of soil next to my garage to open up an access. I built a retaining wall of hollow section concrete blocks filled with cement for strength and thus all was secure.Apart from the fact that it looked bloody awful like some Soviet era gulag jobbie. I always knew I'd have to tart it up and thought of various methods of doing so from cobbles to brick to steel. In the end I clad it with Siberian Larch which, is about half the price of cedar but is also very long lasting and ideal for cladding. Still a bit pricey but not wallet busting.So, then to stain or not to stain. Leaving the wood bare would allow it to weather to a dull silver grey which, might work but in the end I wanted to have a darker look. And having stumped up quite a bit for wood and put the time into doing the job I wanted the absolute best I could buy as a DIY'er.And here it is. I can hand on heart state that I don't think there is a better all weather stain available to the punter in the street. You pay for it for sure, but the stuff goes a long way and when you price it against the materials you have used and don't want to rot then it's small beans really.It goes on easily using whichever method you want to use. I'm a marine Chief Engineer and believe it or not ships are maintained using what we call 'fanny-rollers.' These are the small foam rollers used for painting behind radiators etc. Well they are also excellent for rolling on paint, stain and varnish and perfect for using with this stuff if you want a smooth even application. It will also spray well using a HVLP type unit if thinned a tad.The finish when first applied is thick, viscous and almost waxy. Now, I have used other branded stuff that felt similar but wouldn't overcoat because of the wax in it. This stuff overcoats easily and I put on two layers in the same day. One in the morning and one in the evening.Here's a bit of information I've garnered from years of firstly running ships and latterly building them. If you are doing more than one coat don't let the first coat fully cure. The best way to get a proper solid coating is to allow the first coat to dry to the touch or perhaps just tacky and then apply the next cover. This will ensure that the chemical bond between layers is solid and stops peeling.If you do allow the stuff to fully cure then you will probably need to abrade the surface to make a good key for the next paint or stain layer.Anyway, despite the cost, in my opinion this is was well worth the money. I have no doubt it will last a reasonable length of time and protect the wood cladding with a very good looking colour.

We've been using Sadolin for our exterior woodwork for years. Living in Cornwall, and at the top of a hill, our doors and frames get scoured by salty gales and sunshine. Every three or four years we rub them down and freshen them up with a new coat of Sadolin. We've lived here and done this for 21 years now, no bubbling or flaking and the doors still look like new. Touch dry in six hours I do a door before lunch and leave it ajar until about 8 when I can close and bolt it without the paint sticking.

I used this product to stain all of my external window frames. I live in a bungalow so this was a manageable task even for an amateur like me! It applied easily without too many drips and gave a lovely glossy finish. Coverage was good and it covered any slightly bare patches with ease. I used the mahogany colour and it has made my bungalow look really nice. A very professional job, though I say so myself! I will definitely use this product again when necessary.

As someone who is a veteran deck stainer, I have tried them all. It's an awful job and when it comes around, after feigning illness and/or some kind of limb damage, I now am converted to having to reach for Sadolin in my hour(s) of need (and distress). Compared to the watered down poster paint at B&Q, this is a syrupy, rich dream. Goes on easily, great coverage and excellent colour.Ronseal, you are no Sadolin. And I suspect you know it...

Follow the Advice and use two (or three) base coats of Sadolin Classic. Allow each coat to fully harden off. Then finish off with two further coats of Sadolin Extra. Tye results is superb. Just ensure the base wood is clear of dirt or cobwebs and then choose dry days with good forecasts to ensure no rain for at least 16hours. Oh! And stir each tin for a few minutes with a quality brush. The Classic formula is thinner but penetrates the wood better and gives a sound base coat colour. The Extra will then finish your work off with a durable UV/Sunlight durable finish. This is one of the best products out there! Recommended.

Good colour, recommended by neighbour for durability. But this stain needs stirring for a long time with a wide stirrer to get best results. First coat we stirred quite a while but with heavy screwdriver- not wide enough, first coat slow to dry. On advice of another reviewer we ploughed on with second coat, stirred almost 5 mins with wider implement, success! Applied better and dried in four hours. Super finish.

Bought this to recoat some tables. I hand sanded the tables back to bare wood, and applied one coat of this. It states drying time of 24hrs. What a joke. The tables were left in a hall, with plenty of light and air to dry (in mid October, so not hot weather). They took 4 days to dry. The finish is not durable, and has marked already with light use. A total rip off, my advice - buy something else.

I bought this product to recover teak garden furniture that had weathered badly during the Winter. It was much more viscous than previous stains I had used. When applying it with a brush, the finish was inconsistent despite repeated stirring. I would think twice before using it again.