Thermaltake Floe DX 360mm, Dual Ring LED, 16.8 Million Color Software Enabled (TT RGB Plus/Alexa/Razer Chroma), AMD (AM5/AM4)/Intel (LGA 2066/1200), AIO CPU Liquid Cooler CL-W256-PL12SW-B

The cooler was easy to install and it has multiple mounting brackets to fit most CPUs. It has kept my CPU cool while making minimal noise, even under heavy load.

This is probably one of the best AIO coolers I have ever installed in a computer system. I would highly recommend this for anyone looking to get their temps under control. I am primarily a workstation, coding, multi-VM, type of power user, who happens to play games every once in a while. Water cooling is not just for gaming and is a powerful component to have for any type of user, so don't let such a simple misconception keep you from enjoying prolonged component life and quieter system operation. There are a few key things to watch out for though:1) This matters more for those who will mount the radiator at the front of their case: When measuring your setup to determine whether the rubber hoses are long enough, do not take a linear measurement from the area in your case where the radiator will go over to the CPU. The rubber hoses are thick and the way they are mounted with a 90 degree elbow at the CPU bracket do not let them lay very flat, they maintain a rather rigid curve to the radiator. Instead, measure more in a half moon shape from the radiator area over to the CPU. This will give you a better idea if you are going to have enough length to work with. If you happen to be mounting this on the rear or top of the case where the radiator is in closer proximity to the CPU, you shouldn't have anything to worry about.2) When you first turn this on, do not be surprised if there is a lot of noise coming from the motor in the CPU block, including vibrations, gurgling, bubbling, gremlins, gnomes, or other unnatural sounds that may come from it. During shipping there is no telling how many bubbles have been spread throughout the hoses, radiator, and CPU block. As long as it sounds like something is moving in there, let it run for several minutes. It took about 5 minutes before the pump on my system had managed to cycle enough fluid to situate all of the air bubbles where they belong, and the system went dead quiet as soon as it did. It hasn't made a peep since and has been running silent and flawless for days. If you are concerned about thermal damage to the processor, remove the RAM from your motherboard so it fails to POST but still maintains power to accessory fans. This will allow you to clear the system without putting any actual thermal stress on the CPU. If you're still nervous after the bubbling sounds go away, boot to BIOS and watch your CPU temps from there for a few more minutes to make sure everything looks good.3) The CPU block comes with some thermal compound already installed and ready to go, which is great if you so happened to forget to buy any before wanting to install this kit. So right out of the box, this is ready to go which I thought was quite nice but not clearly advertised anywhere. Now, for those who intend to use this for more high-end processors, heavy gaming, overclocking, etc then I might suggest having an extra plastic scraper handy and scraping this off the copper block so you can cleanly place your own desired thermal cooling paste of choice (Arctic, Deepcool, Grizzly, etc.) on instead.4) It doesn't take a super nerd or computer genius to install this, though they may be able to complete the process faster. If you take your time and go slow, just about anyone can do this on their first try without issues. When in doubt, check out Google or YouTube - there are tons of walk through videos for installing AIO (including this exact one) which cover just about any question you could possibly have.

I shoehorned this cooler into my old Alienware Area 51 R2 in order to replace my now dead and woefully inadequate factory 120mm CPU liquid cooler. It was a beast of a job, though that's not fault of the cooler. The Area 51 wasn't designed for a 360mm radiator so I had to strip the entire case down the metal chassis in order to drill mounting holes for the new rad. It provided just the right amount of room and I set the fans to pull outside air through the rad. From that point, mounting the pump to the motherboard is just like any other liquid cooler: a piece of cake.My main goal with this setup was to finally be able to safely overclock my i7-5960x to at least the 4.0 GHz mark, but unfortunately Dell's stock BIOS seems to be fighting me every step of the way there since none of my configurations seem to take hold and/or are overridden by Command Center, but I'll just have to keep troubleshooting and experimenting. In the meantime it seems to be running quite happy at the stock "Level 2" preset at 3.8 GHz. Running a multi-core test on Cinebench maxed the temps out at 60C and under actual gaming loads with Cyberpunk (RTX 2080 Ti, 1440p, 144Hz, Ultra w/ Ray Tracing on), it was only topping out at 51C. It's also whisper quiet, which is a massive improvement from the factory fans.I have yet to do more extensive testing but I'm overall very happy with this cooler and the Toughfan 12s it comes with (I bought extras to replace the rest of the fans in the case). It's quite a bit more expensive than other 360mm coolers that'll probably do just as good of a job, but if you can get it on sale, it's a no brainer.

So far so good the watercooler is working great. The only issue I have with it was at the little box for all the different fans and connectors that plug into the controller. Cable plug-in is weak on the box and when I was adjusting it in my case, I broke the main control connection. It’s like an android connector. Can’t remember what type of plug it is. It broke off a little circuit board inside the black box so currently my fans have no color control. They’re just flashing, but hey, it’s a cooler. So I have no RGB control or the fans currently but I’ll deal with that later.