Global Caché WF2IR iTach WiFi to IR Module - Connects Infrared Controlled Devices to a Wi-Fi Network
Brand | Global Caché |
Series | WF2IR |
Item model number | WF2IR |
Item Weight | 3.2 ounces |
Product Dimensions | 3.23 x 2.95 x 1.26 inches |
Item Dimensions LxWxH | 3.23 x 2.95 x 1.26 inches |
Voltage | 12 Volts |
Manufacturer | Global Cach |
ASIN | B0051BU418 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Date First Available | April 28, 2017 |
S**O
ultra reliable and relatively easy to configure with iRule
I've had an IP2Serial iTach in service for 6 years. The thing always works. I've had an IP2IR in a box for six years, but long story short, I was having some trouble with the reliability of the way I was turning on my Panasonic Plasma TV. the Panasonic can not be turned on with IP commands, but if it's on you can control it over IP and turn it off. I was using a Panasonic Blu-Ray player to turn the TV on (over HDMI). It worked 98% of the time. Finally I just decided to add this wf2IR to turn the TV on with IR. I received the package and it was missing the all IR emitters. :-( I contacted Amazon and they are exchanging it for me. I remembered I had an IP2IR device in a box, so I borrowed the emitters in the meantime to get things working. I had some difficulty getting the device onto my home wifi network, but I quickly found the Global Cache support pages about my particular problem. I have Ubiquiti access points. You have to enable legacy 802.11b in the ubiquity wifi settings. Once I did that it joined my network and I went into the iRule builder to add the Panasonic TV IR as a (duplicate) device. I setup the gateway on my android device and linked it to the device. I added a test button to a screen just to test "On" and it worked first try. From there, I went into the buttons that were using the DVD player to turn on the TV and I changed them to the IR command. It really was a snap. If this device proves to be as reliable as the IP2serial device it's going to outlast this TV which will someday be replaced with an OLED unit that (hopefully) can be turned on over IP.
J**.
Do it
Do you want to control any infrared device with a bash script? Does OpenRemote sound like something you would like to use for your next universal remote? Do you just need a way to pump out IR codes via a telnet session? Do you need to integrate something IR controlled into a PLC with ethernet connectivity? If any of these things sound like a goal you may have, then this is going to be the device that enables you to do this. There are functions to this device that I haven't used, like storing IR codes, but I can tell you that when I connect to it and send a 'sendir' command it works without a hitch. If you were thinking about automating your home and want to add your stereo system, yet still retain control over your privacy, this is the way to do it.By now, you probably should have gathered that this is not a device that has a plug and play function or a cutsy iPhone app. What this device does is listens to a connection on port 4998, once connected it is looking for GlobalCache IR code commands or some other command to run a preprogrammed IR pattern. Once the requisite information has been received the device will go to work outputting the IR sequences specified in the command.You will need the global cache IRlearn and IRtest programs, if you run a mac you can get paid versions from the app store (written by a private individual). The IR receive is the small hole to the side of the DC barrel connector. Not the most ideal location, but functions for most things.
S**Y
Wifi implementation needs a little work.
First of all these devices perform as advertised for both IR and Contact Closure applications. They integrate well with Homeseer the IR device works great with a number of different IR clients. The CC device controls three closures. I would like to see a parameter to have momentary functionality but in my application there are work arounds for that. The biggest problem that I have found is with the WiFi devices which do not recover after a network bounce or other network anomalies. If the network blinks these devices need to be restarted. You can ping them but they do not appear to respond to commands. I have exchanged both of them for the wired version which seem to work flawlessly. If you can have a wired device I would suggest the IP versions.
W**P
Works great with Roomie iOS app
Bought this to use with the Roomie iOS app to control my home entertainment setup. This product competes with the Logitech Harmony Link, RedEye system, and the Peel system. While this box requires a paid app (the competitors apps are free) and expensive in-app purchases (you'll spend a minimum of $20 on the Roomie app just to get control of 2 devices, and $50 on the app if you want more than 2 devices (who doesn't have more than 2!?) and a channel guide that isn't a joke). As scammy and annoying as that may seem, after all that you really will get an amazing, flexible, and robust iOS remote. Importantly, it should be noted that the Roomie app developers are separate from Global Cache, the manufacturer of this physical box.When you first get the box, you plug it in and hold the reset button. Be very careful with the reset button, as it's not really a button so much as a sensor that detects when you insert a paper clip. No need to push or insert far, because if you do, you'll break the infrared "command learning" sensor that sees through the same hole (and is located just behind the reset sensor).After following the relatively easy setup instructions to connect the box to your home network, the Roomie app saw the box without a hitch.The box comes with 2 IR emitter wires that have 2 emitters each at the end, which stick to the devices (stick them near the IR receiver on the device you want to control). This allows you to control 4 devices, but there's more! There is a third IR "blaster" that you can place in view of other (designed for multiple) devices to control more things.The Roomie app makes adding devices a breeze, and has an extensive library of codes for tons of different devices and manufacturers. If your device isn't listed, there's a relatively easy "teaching" process where you use the device's remote with the "learning port" on the IR box to teach the Roomie app the IR sequence for each button. This is where this Global Cache + Roomie app system shines, in it's flexibility.The Roomie app makes it easy to set up "activities" that fire off a bunch of commands (turn on, set inputs, etc...) and set delays between the commands. You can also customize the remote that displays with each activity, and delete all the buttons you'll never use that just create clutter. Again, this goes towards my point about how the system is flexible. However, while this is very flexible, it still doesn't make it complicated to use or set up. Honestly, I spent a good deal of time setting up my "activities," but I got the basics set up pretty quickly.In summary, this box, combined with the (expensive) Roomie app, is unbeatable and will eliminate your need for 4 remotes or any complicated universal remotes. If you or someone in your house is constantly perplexed by how to turn on the TV, get this!
L**R
If you're technically savvy, tired of "toys" and need a Wifi to IR interface that works, look no further
Works great with iRule on iOS (which, btw, I highly recommend as the ultimate "soft" remote). I have 2 of these Wifi boxes plus a hardwired Ethernet version. Not cheap, but worth the money.Initial setup is a bit cumbersome, but once setup these boxes work. Status LEDs for net connectivity and each blaster port is invaluable when debugging. Also, while this box can capture IR codes as well as blast them (assuming your SW allows custom IR codes) the process is pretty tedious. Be ready to cut and paste hex codes from the iLearn app.One tidbit learned the hard way: The tiny hole adjacent to the power connector is BOTH for the IR learning receiver (aligning a remote to transmit into that tiny hole is a challenge) AND the "reset button". However, there is no reset BUTTON at all! I had to break off an end panel on one to determine that the "reset" is really just two exposed pads on the PCB that you are expected to short with a metal wire. Use a paperclip (or similar gauge wire) to insert into the hole and do NOT expect to hit a pushbutton. There isn't one. In fact if you *do* push too far you'll hit the IR receiver and possibly misalign it.To reset: Insert a paperclip or stiff, bare wire about 1/8 inch into the hole and then "fish it around" a bit until you hit the two contacts. Hokey.Was the cost of a real mini-pushbutton really that prohibitive? Thankfully you don't need to reset the box frequently, so its not that big a deal. In fact, once configured, it is set-and-forget. As long as your Wifi hub is on the air, it works. So, while the configuration, IR capture and reset processes are less than ideal, I'm giving it 5 stars because folks buying these kinds of interfaces are expected to be technically savvy anyway. If you're not, get a Logitech Harmony. Once setup it just works day-in and day-out. Wish the same could be said about a lot of other home automation devices.
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