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Color:WP250A This Circuit Breaker offers critical protection to your system. When the system is over power or short circuit, the breaker will cut and save your equipment No need to replace the fuses, the system can be reset by a simple switch which also offers safe and instant system shut down. Specifications: -Models: 30A/40A/50A/60A/80A/100A/150A/200A/250A/300A -Manual Reset Circuit Breaker -Power Rating: 250 Ampere -Voltage: DC 12V - 36V (Max) -Red manual reset button -Operating Temperature: -32C to 82C (-25F to 180F) -Storage Temperature: -34C to 149C (-30F to 300F) -Surface Mount, protective stud insulator included -Size: 72mm x 46mm x 31mmFeatures: -Water resistant housing. -High Current Circuit Breaker, to protect to your system. -Unique Push Button Reset can also be used as a Kill Switch. -Self-test, manual control and easy to operate with manual reset arm. -Prevents excessive current and stops power surges from damaging Amps. -Can be mounted on Panel or Firewall. -Application: Typically used in auxiliary and accessory circuits for Boat, Trucks, Buses, Marine, RV and ATV applications. Also can used as an on/off button switch for the battery or DC sound system. Packing list: 1 x 250 Amp Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset
A**.
300a version is no good
Bought the 300a version, it shut itself off at 135a. Thought I’d damaged the breaker so bought another one — same thing. Have a 150a and a 100a and haven’t seen any issues with those, but the 300a version can’t even handle half what it’s supposed to.UPDATE: Seller contacted me asking me to take down my original review (above) in exchange for an Amazon gift card. My intention with my original review was to alert others of the problems with the 300a version of the Anjoshi surface-mount breaker, not to insinuate that you should avoid this seller or Anjoshi's other products, which is why I noted that I have the 150a and 100a versions of the same breaker and they work just fine.In fact, other than the bribe attempt, this seller has been great and I'd have no issues buying from them again.A friend of mine had the exact same experience with the 300a Anjoshi. Like me, he figured "a breaker is a breaker" and thought he'd save a little money by going with a cheaper one.I will not remove my original review, but I will expand on it a bit for those looking at 300a switch breakers, in hopes that maybe you won't lose hours and hours to a project like I did.My 3000w inverter kept shutting itself off and rebooting when my pull got to 135a. Like clockwork, test after test, 135a and shutoff. After 3 full days of troubleshooting and ruling out problems with the batteries, inverter and everything else we could think of, we tried some tests on the breaker. Didn't start there because the breaker wasn't popping and because we weren't even trying to pull half of what it's supposedly rated to handle.Turns out it was the breaker.Thinking maybe I just had a bad one, I returned it for another Anjoshi 300a surface-mount breaker. Had the exact same experience. So then I did a bunch more digging and went a different route. My system works perfectly now.I'm not a shill for another company or product, so I'm not going to recommend anything based on what I ended up doing. I'm just going to recommend that if you need a 300a breaker, do some research and call a few professionals who deal with products for your particular application, and then do what they suggest, which, at that amperage, almost certainly won't be a surface-mount breaker.
C**L
250A Does not meet Continuous Rating
I have a 2000W alternator. A 1500W load pulled ~110-120A. The 250A circuit breaker has two issues:1. There was a small load within the breaker itself at 120A load that caused ~.5V drop from the battery to load side. The longer the load ran, the larger the drop. Eventually the breaker had a partial? trip as it read 3-5V on the load side. After cooling off, voltage returned back to 12.5ish volts on the battery side. A .5V drop at 120A is basically telling me that this thing has a 60W load within the tripping mechanism itself, telling me its under strain to keep up with amperage draw.How do I know it was running 120A and 1500W? I have a victron smart shunt telling me the exact load the samlex inverter was pulling.To confirm my suspician that this is a poor performing breaker, I jumped the battery and load side of the breaker to bypass the tripping mechanism and everything worked fine.After only running the load for 2 or so minutes without the jumper, the circuit breaker was already above 100F in 60F outdoor temp.This breaker is dangerous. Do not buy.
S**L
Okay with a few caveats
I will say, this product works and its doing an excellent job for what I need - HOWEVER there are two glaring issues.1. The "reset" button is INSANELY sensitive. If you so much as press carpet up against it (as in installing under carpet) it will be enough to press the button or cause a twitchy connection. I had to build a sheet metal cover for my switch because the carpet laying on top of it was enough to trip the button if the carpet shifted at all.2. The grommets do not fit 4awg wire. You'd think if you're going to advertise this as fitting 4 gauge wire, the "water tight" grommet should be able to fit 4 gauge wire, so I just had to use the open ended plastic caps which is no biggie to me. Id be more upset if this breaker was exposed as then it would not look as finished as I would like.All things considered if you're placing this in a very safe place that has NO way of even being grazed near the button, and you're okay with the rubber grommets not fitting larger wires - its a good product for money.
R**M
Good breakers.
I use these in my RV solar system circuits. Well made and have worked flawlessly for a year now! I use them as an on/off switch too.
Z**E
300amp model is dangerous and way out of spec / stay away!!! (tripping at 60amp sustained draw)
Did some basic testing with system on a 60-100amp@12V draw / inverting at 1200watts load; the rating on breaker is at 300amp and was using as the DC battery bank disconnect.First warning sign is the smaller posts look no where near large enough for this type of current.Skeptically I hooked into system and started load test; at about 60amps the breaker warmed up to about 140F and tripped.Then I was like "gee" that looks hot and burned my fingers on breaker; taking out heat gun confirmed my now blistered fingertip "test" at 140F-160F.Backside of board it was mounted to started burning; downright dangerous and a fire hazard.Stick with manual cut-off and mega-fuses, can't imagine the damage if that wasn't in a test setup.
D**E
Stud Size is WAY too small for a 300A Breaker!
When I received this breaker, I was surprised at it's small size for a 300A breaker. That alone wouldn't be an issue, but the studs for connecting a cable (300A requires 2/0 cable at a minimum) are just too small at 3/16" to manage that size cable. I would recommend spending a bit more and getting a properly sized breaker.
J**.
Very useful. Running a XD1000/5v2 at 2Ω but wired the ...
Very useful. Running a car Audio Amp XD1000/5v2 at 2Ω but wired the speakers a little below 2Ω SB-GM-SLVCC2/12TW3/BK. The Amp kept blowing fuses so this is why i went with this breaker. Only down side its located under the hood. Would recommend.6-17-19be located under the hoods has made the Red lever brittle and has broken. Breaker still working with no issues.
K**N
Installed. Working. I like it.
Bought this to replace an inline fuse holder that was deteriorating from time and engine compartment heat. This is my first inline relay I have installed for a car audio system. It seems like a good item but time will tell the story. I am happy with the purchase.
S**N
not reccomended
not accurate and tripped at 200 amps 6mm lugs too small for 300 amp
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