Chainsaw Mill Planking Milling 14 to 24 Inches Guide Bar Wood Lumber Cutting Portable Sawmill Aluminum Steel Chainsaw Mill for Builders and Woodworkers

I haven't used it yet, but it looks to be easy to use. Well built, but I did put lock washers on the main bolts to make it a little sturdier.

Bought this chainsaw mill and was able to cut 3 times before it failed. The clamps that hold the chainsaw bar in place are hollow and will shortly crush due to the pressure from bolts clamping the chainsaw bar. Once this section of the mill starts to crush, there is no way to put pressure on the chainsaw bar to hold it in place, so it moves around making the whole thing useless.When the mill was working it did an okay job of cutting. There is a lot of set up and the more time you put into making sure the set up is correct the better the results will be. A larger chainsaw and ripping chain also help. However this mill makes starting the chainsaw very cumbersome. Getting the chainsaw in and out of the mill is not a straightforward task.If the hollow parts of the bar clamps were filled in with washers it would make this a much better design that lasts longer. It still wont have super accurate cuts, but will get some rough cut lumber that can be processed with a planer and jointer.

Overall the quality is very good, with the exception of the chrome coated rod that holds the two sides together. The chrome peeled of one end as I was assembling it. Assembly instructions were not very clear and there was no operating instructions on how to use the device. I have used it to mill logs and it works as expected.

As a chainsaw mill, this is indeed an example. As a product, it's more of a guide to what to look for when you need a real one. The engineering is poor, and the quality of parts is middling. If you have access to a forge and anvil, you can make do by re-forging or creating parts to replace the supplied ones. The 'wrench' which comes with it did not fit any nuts due to poor quality control. A few minutes in the forge and work on an anvil horn did get the wrench to fit the upper nuts, though not the ones that attach the chainsaw (they use a different size nut, see image 1 and 2). The same treatment to the upper end of the wrench will allow you to use it to adjust bar length nuts on the chainsaw bar, but as supplied it won't fit standard nuts for a Stihl chainsaw (and likely other brands). The 'wrench' is galvanized, so avoid the zinc fumes if you do need to re-forge this tool.If you aren't a blacksmith, you'll need a crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) so that you can use the same tool on the differently sized upper and lower nuts. Better yet, replace the included nuts with wing nuts to eliminate the need for multiple tools.The parts themselves are odd, being neither metric nor imperial. For example, length of the cross-pieces is 12 17/32" or 31.8 cm. Width is 28 1/4", or 67.5 cm. If you are building a set of rails for this, do no assume round numbers. Cut to length compared with the assembled unit, and test fit often.The design is also odd. U bolts hold the nicely marked depth bars in place, but have very long threads, 1 5/8" long, or 3.5 cm. Best to cut those down, as the nuts only need to move a fraction to allow the guides to move up and down. This is not possible unless you use the included 'wrench', as the limited space prevents use of a crescent wrench until the nut is free of the crosspiece. The U nuts are both oriented in one direction, so one set will extend over the plexiglass window, preventing adjustments unless you first loosen the cross-piece and distance it from the window (image 3). If you have access to a foundry, re-cast one of the vertical support crosspieces as a mirror image to prevent this issue. Alternately cut, reverse and re-weld the middle section of the crosspiece, though they are aluminum and will require a shielding gas. The existing pieces are not reversible, as this would prevent the use of the same piece twice, increasing cost.Taken as a whole, this comes across as a collection of parts that were assembled to approximate the design specs while using at-hand parts to reduce cost. A reasonable approach, but given the price compared to ones from other companies, and the need to hack the parts into a usable system, why pay more? I regret thinking that a slightly higher price would reflect slightly better design and parts. If you have the facilities, you're better off making your own. If you've never used one before, get a cheaper model and use it as a template.This will give you hands on experience in what a chainsaw mill could be, but is definitely not what it should be. Instructions are entirely image based, with no parts list or specs for sizes. Again, replacing all bolts and nuts will to be your best bet to get a functional mill.

It seems to be good quality but I guess I'm just disappointed in my saw. Has a hard time ripping but this seemed to do the job okay.

Very happy with this product... didn't spend a bunch a money and set up was easy. Didn't have lockwashers but was happy they give you other extra hardware....March 1st update: found the measurements on the bar are right on... still happy and holding together nicely... little cumbersome trying to tighten the bar bolts when milling around an inch but thinking I might be able to reverse the bolts and tighten from the bottom.

love this mill, glad I was able to find it here and at a reasonable price, too. Have been having so much fun with this. Making siding because I'm able to cut boards as thin as 1/2 inch and beams up to 10-12". It's also very safe to use. I'm disabled and unsteady and I don't have to worry about getting hurt.

I was super excited to start milling with this saw attachment. Anyone with any mechanical capabilities can put this mill together. However the instructions are horrible, only pictures no writing. If you set this mill to 14”, you will only be able to cut very small branches, it will not fit around a log. The tensioning clamps for the chainsaw bar are horrible. I had drill the middle and place 5/16 all thread with some locking nuts. After that I measured for two holes in my 18” saw bar, and drilled them out (which is always fun to drill through). To adjust the cutting depth is a nightmare.This mill will work, you will just need an entire day to rip a couple of boards.