OVERTURE Nylon Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Consumables, Polyamide (PA) 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Grey)

Buying nylon had me worried, since I've heard that it warps like crazy and oozes/strings. So far, this filament prints just fine- although I am running it quite slow in an enclosed printer.Tough, low friction and easy to print.

So I got this nylon filament to print stuff for my RC cars, at first attempt it didn’t want to stick to the heat bed, so after abit of research and determination I got it to stick, the trick is to use a bed temp of 50 and some pvp glue, now it sticks like a dream, I find running the hot end at about 260 to get a good print quality, all in all after ironing out the problems it’s a good filament

Alfter a long drying time the grey version prints very well. This is the second 1 kilo reel I have printed. I have ordered another.The print is tough and well formed on a FF Glider2s

Excellent print quality at start. Have since had issues. Accompanying Info says prints need to be annealed at 70 degrees c for 2 hours. Don't know is issues are to do with filament or with my setup. I have not had time to experiment. Prints produced in initial batch were nicely finished and very tough.

prints as i would expect from overture filament no complaints

Great filament easy to use good strength on prints so far.

Brittle like PLA. I printed a hook in this and in Taulman3D Nylon 680. I then bent each hook to destruction as a test, this almost immediately shattered with sharp edges whereas the Taulman3D Nylon bent instead as you would expect from nylon, see picture.

I use nylon for gears and timing pulleys .First tried this at my normal nylon settings 250 /70 /in a 50deg.c chamber 20% fan, it was absolute rubish. it curled up wouldnd stick at all and that was on a garalite bed. It very nearly went in the bin.But, I upped everything to 270/90 and it seems to be working a charm now as with all nylons you should scale your model up by 2% then when it cools down it will be dimensionally correct. I cant understand why people think its not nylon, it prints and behaves just like it.dont be shy ,give it a try !!

This is my first time printing with Nylon since I started with 3D printing. I usually print with Overture's PLA, PLA Pro and PETG, also great products.First thing I noticed is the new spool with 4x90deg holes on the sides to secure the filament while not in use. The original Overture spool had 3x120deg holes. The package is the standard Overture style: resealable bag, 200x200 print surface and a small ruler.After a few failed attempts, I finally managed to get a nice print, although I believe there is still room for further improvements.I did a lot of research on the web prior to start printing with Nylon and I got all sorts of directions, tips and tricks. However, this Overture Easy Nylon filament turns out to be very easy like the name says and requires little to none extra knowledge to print with if you are already familiar with PETG. However, whether you have a textured or smooth print surface, you will need to add water based glue (glue stick) to get proper adhesion. Interesting fact is that the first time I printed with Nylon, I did not use glue and the filament adhered to my textured bed quite nicely but after I removed the print, there was no way to get it to stick without applying a layer of glue on the bed surface. So save yourself sometime and apply the glue right from the get go.My printers are in the coldest room in the house (66F - 68F), so instead of setting the bed temperature to 50C as described in the spool, I set it to 65C and it worked just fine. Hotend temperature was set to 250C for all layers to make sure layer to layer bonding.For this review, I used this cooling duct as it turns to be a good test print (small parts, thin walls , overhangs and bridging).I started printing with my part cooling fan OFF as indicated in the spool but, I was not able to print small parts with overhangs nicely. Because of the combination of a high printing temperature (250C) and a short layer time, the overhangs were getting a droopy and deformed since there was not enough time to cool down a bit from layer to layer causing it to droop and look bad.Then I decided to go against the odds and I turned my fan ON at 50%. I use Prusa Slicer with my printers and its auto cooling feature is quite nice. All you need to do is to define the fan lower / upper limits and the slicer does the rest based on the layer printing time. I set them all to 50% after the first 3 layers (settings snapshot in the pics) and the part still came out still incredibly strong. I tried to snap the string test to check for layer bonding and I was surprised by the fact that the piece kind of bent a little but did not snap.Nylon can be sticky very sticky at 250C, so keep your nozzle clean always clean before printing (the same applies to every filament).Although some people here mentioned the smell, I leave in an apartment and I did not smell anything at all. It was like I was printing PLA. But, again, I only printed small parts. Perhaps it will start smelling when I start printing larger pieces.For this print, here are my basic settings:Printer: CR-10S modified to DD with a Prusa Bear X axis and extruder (basically a larger Prusa MK3S)Slicer: Prusa Slicer 2.3.0Hot end: 250CBed: 65C with a layer of glue (water based. Once the print is done, you just need to brush the part and bed surface off with warm water or IPA)Cooling fan: 50%Retraction: 1.4mm @ 38 mm/sPrint speed: 45mm/sBridge speed: 40mm/sBridge flow: 80%Other settings: Stock Prusa Slicer 2.3.0 MK3S profileOverall, the results were very satisfying and I highly recommend this filament. Don't be afraid of making mistakes. Give it a try and always pay attention to what your printer is doing so you can tweak and adjust your settings.UPDATE: I still need to tweak the overhang settings to avoid drooping. I tried to print a Benchy and the bow overhang was still coming out not too good with these settings.

I have a CoreXY machine that I've been using to experiment with higher temp thermoplastics lately and nylon is completely new to me, and after seeing this at around 30 dollars I thought it would be easily worth it to give it a try and have some fun, and fun I had. Don't get me wrong, this filament isn't completely easy, or as easy as others say it is, you'll have problems unless you have a really expensive printer that's already tuned for nylon, that's just how this kind of plastic works, but once you get it to print, you get an incredibly strong and good looking part, that's well worth the effort. Let's go through some of the problems I experienced and how I fixed them.The first problem I had was that the filament was way too stringy, and popping sounds came from when it was being extruded. Any experienced printer nerd can tell you that my filament was moist and needed to be dried, which I did, by setting it on a glass plate and a cookie sheet in the oven at 180f overnight, go lower if you want to be safer.Next was when printing, on top of both a pie sheet and an ultrabase style bed at 80c, the parts would always warp off mid-print. This was solved through two fixes, first, in order to get the parts to stick better, I went over to McMasters and ordered a 12x12 1/16 sheet of blue garrolite (link below), and adding that on with a matching size 3m high temp adhesive sheet (linked below) dramatically increased the adhesion of the parts. Also, it's worth noting that McMaster has these sheets for really cheap and they ship very fast, such an amazing tidbit I found through my journey.That fixed the problems of the parts coming off the sheet, but not the warping issue, which happens when the part is heated to the temp of the build plate which is past the glass transition temperature of the plastic, making it soft and easily susceptible to warping. Luckily, garrolite is an incredible bed material for nylon prints because it's nearly as sticky cold as it is hot. This is good because the first layer of the print with all the fine details and lines needs to be printed well, at higher temps (60-80c) but after that, you can drop the temperature down to below the glass transition temperature of nylon (I set my consecutive layers temp to around 45-55c), and after that, the part remains hard and resists its own warping. Yes, I'm aware that the real solution to this is a heated chamber and I'm only generating internal stresses, but a heated chamber was out of the question for me and a corporeal part was better than one that wasn't.Next was just the stringiness of the filament, mainly because its a softer filament compared to pla and petg and what have you, so even though I had a direct drive I did have to kick up the retract length and speed a bit, and make sure your combing/wipe settings are on properly.Also, in some of the pictures, you can see the top surface of the parts doesn't look all that great, that's because nylon is not the best when it comes to bridging (which is what the ceiling layers of a print have to do over the infill) so the gaps in the infill show up clearly on the top surface. This is easily fixable by either increasing your top layer count, or your infill percentage.After those fixes, this filament started printing some very nice parts, and I'm very happy with their surface finishes now (benefits of corexy w/ linear rails). Also the filament kind of reminds me of a carbon fiber filled filament with how it looks, it's kind of matte a bit with a little sparkle, which does show up nice on the parts.On another note, you should definitely use this with an all-metal hotend, hardened steel tip, and preferably a geared extruder. I'm using a bmg extruder connected to an e3d v6 all metal hotend.Here are my current printer settings:Line width: 0.4mm outer walls 0.5mm everywhere else on a standard 0.4mm nozzleSpeeds: 25mm/s outer walls 70 mm/s everywhere elseInfill: 40% (for roof quality)Nozzle temp: 260cHeatbed temp: 80c first layer, 50c rest layersRetracts: 3mm at 40mm/s (on bmg direct drive with e3d v6 hotend, should be 7-8mm at 45mm/s for bowden)Cooling fan: None, with a 20s minimum layer timeLayer height: 0.2 mmZ hop: noneAny other settings could be left stockHere is the garrolite sheet selection on McMasters:https://www.mcmaster.com/garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/Here is the adhesive sheet:https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Transfer-Double-Printer-Weupe/dp/B07BK8PHZK/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3M87LNGA7A3KR&dchild=1&keywords=adhesive%2Btransfer%2Btape&qid=1603090828&sprefix=adhesive%2Btrans%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-12&th=1Have fun printing!

I like Overture anyway, so I'm biased a little. They're not my #1 but I will use them when the price is right or my prime filament (eSun) is out of stock. I got a project request from a customer that needed a small nylon part. Woohoo! I've never printed in nylon before, only ever used PLA and dabbled in PETG. Honestly, I was a bit scared of it! This was my big chance.I started reading up and all the sites said I needed an enclosure to maintain heat or the print would warp. Ug. I have a CR-10 Max (it's huge) and the cheapest ready-made enclosure available is $700. Even building a hack-job enclosure myself was going to cost at least $100 and several trips to Home Depot, which is hard to justify for one lousy, rather small print job.Another site said I needed to vent to the outdoors. There's another $50. And, I was looking at a few nights and weekends to put it all together. Yes, then I could print Nylon whenever I wanted and ABS and blah, blah. I just don't have the energy for it right now. (I'm old.)Yet another site said I should get some Magigoo (which I did order but it hasn't arrived yet) to get bed adhesion. Well, that's another $30 at least.Give me a break!!!It turned out that I didn't need any of that when printing with OVERTURE Easy Nylon Filament. For some reason, the product title doesn't say 'Easy' (it's written on the spool) but it should! That's a great way to describe this experience. It was easy. Almost PLA easy and much easier than I ever expected.I decided to just try it without all that just to see what would happen. I decided to treat it like PLA and see how things came out. The only thing I did differently than PLA is ventilation in the room and temps. I know there would be fumes - we are melting plastic after all - so I opened a window and propped a fan in it. I turned on the central AC fan only to create some positive pressure in the room and I stuffed some towels under the door. I have pets and kids so I don't want the fumes in my house. I have a HEPA filter so I cranked that up to high. And...that's about it.I was concerned that the ventilation would cool the nylon off too much and it would warp but it didn't seem to matter.Here are the settings I used:50º C bed. I'm using a Wham Bam Pex flexible bed which is rated for Nylon. I already had this.250º C hot end. I use a Micro Swiss all-metal hot end with a .4mm hardened nozzle.First layer 104% width6mm retraction at 30mm/s since I'm using a Bowden tube.A skirt but offset (not touching) the objectNo part cooling. Set the fan to 0%.Printed at 50mm/sNote that these are all the same settings (except hot end temp) that I use with PLA+.That's right, this filament prints more or less like PLA!!!!! And, my print was all but perfect. A tiny string coming off of one corner. Which, if you know 3D printing, that IS a perfect print. Anything less than 1 minute of cleanup is perfect in my book and this was literally 5 seconds of cleanup.Who are these wizards at OVERTURE and why isn't all nylon like this?OK, let's talk about smell. It does smell, even in a vented room. It's not terrible - I'm sitting in the room as I type this - but I'd say you probably don't want to be around it. It's a warm plastic smell, as one might expect. I don't know if it lingers after the print is done. I'll update this review if it does but I assume it won't.  The price was excellent. Less than $30 for a kilo spool. I'm tempted to buy another one because I know they'll increase the price when it gets popular. And, I'm betting it will get popular as soon as more reviews come in. When I bought it, there were no reviews or ratings so it was a bit of a chance...Let's add this up. Let's say $30 for the spool. -$150 for an enclosure I didn't need. -$50 for a vent I didn't need. -$1000 for the time saved not setting up said enclosure and vent. All told, this magic filament saved me $1170 (or $170 if you don't count the labor). If I had chosen any other nylon, I'll be I would have had to spend every penny of that. This is real savings. [edit: I forgot to credit in the cost of the Magigoo which I didn’t need.]I said at the outset that Overture wasn't my #1. I'm thinking really hard about changing my mind. I'll say this, for Nylon I will not buy any other brand unless I absolutely have to. This has been a fun weekend!

First, I wouldn't say even "easy" nylon is for beginners - working with a PA-CF filament is going to be easier still because the carbon fiber mitigates a lot of issues nylon has on its own. That said, this is certainly easier than most, especially for pure nylon without any additional components.It's definitely not odorless (took off a star for this claim), but in my Bambu Lab X1C a very low chamber fan setting keeps the nasty stuff from going into the room. Don't try to print this quite as fast as PLA or anything, but you can get reliable results with excellent strength.The lack of CF also makes it tough to print with overhangs - part cooling can help but increases warping, and since most people who print nylon are quite concerned with dimensional accuracy, this can easily be a problem. Not the fault of this filament at all though. And as always, make sure it's dry - printing from a heated drybox is always a good idea and very necessary even in normal humidity, all nylon absorbs enough moisture to degrade your print within hours.

Good filament. Tough parts. Using a Prusa i3 MKIIIS+, with Fillamentum Nylon FX256 preset, 253C head temp and 50C bed temp on a Ultistik (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08X45VKJ5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) textured build plate. .6mm hardened steel nozzle. Fan off. Prints perfectly with no glue.