Innova3123 GM OBD1 Code Reader, Windows XP

I recently purchased a 94 Bronco that has some issues after warm up. I used this to read the codes after the check engine light came on. The codes helped me diagnose my issue. Works as advertised. You can use it to read stored codes as well as the codes that are being accumulated while the truck is running. Very easy to use with very complete instructions as well as a complete listing of what all the codes indicate.

This is for OBD1 cars up to 1995. 1996 and newer will not work with this. I got this for my 1995 Mazda 626 4-cylinder automatic (with Ford EEC-IV). It worked like a charm the first time! You can also use this to clear continuous memory codes (Keep Alive Memory) which is nice. You can also use this to run a cylinder balance test, KOEO test, and KOER tests if your car is capable of it. This thing has been the best $25 I spent for my 626. There are video tutorials on YouTube for using it with your Mazda 626.If you're wondering if you should get the extension cord you should if you can afford it. It does make things like ten times easier with the live test inputs you might have to do like turning your steering wheel, pressing the clutch, brake, or other inputs in order to run the KOER test. In order to do those inputs you need to see the prompt code to do them. That means running from the side of the engine bay into the car to perform those inputs (within 2 seconds of being prompted). It's easier if you're sitting in the seat with the reader in your hand, not feeling like Wylie Coyote running around your car. Get the extension cord if you plan on trying to run the more advanced diagnostics.The manual it comes with is thick (only because it's split into multiple languages) and might take you reading a couple times to digest all the info and procedures. Out of the whole manual there's only about 10 pages that you have to read and the rest are code descriptions. They have a long list of compatible cars and the Mazda 626 is not listed. I even emailed Innova about it and they didn't seem too interested in adding my car to the list because it's only for specific years (1993-1995), specific engine (2.0L), and transmission (Automatic).If you currently have to count the check engine light flashes and your car is NOT OBD2... then you'll want to see if you can use this because it's a huge time and frustration saver. Worth every penny.

Nice book with lots of clear ENGLISH instructions and extra general info about how the computer works etc., and a full list of codes. Unit itself is professional looking high quality gear, you won't be embarrassed to use it. (Unlike how dirt-cheap some certain orange colored tools from a certain unnamed place can appear)I bought a '93 Lincoln Towncar, and it has an intermittent MIL. It's "EGR insufficient flow" so can be largely ignored. If a couple cans of Seafoam won't cure it in the next couple of weeks, I'll replace the $35 EGR valve and/or clean the carbon out of the manifold passageways.A note about the OBDI which is what these cars have: unlike 'modern' OBDII, the MIL operates in real time. (MIL = Malfunction Indicator Light or "check engine" light) With OBDII, if the MIL is triggered, it stays on for the most part. If it's a one time event, many start/stop cycles might turn it back off, but it usually needs to be cleared. With OBDI, the light may go back out, come back on, go back out as you drive. (It does in my case) The car's computer has a stored code area, which this tester has access to, so, you can see what's triggering the MIL as it happens, AND check the stored codes too. In my case, the codes just refer to the (probably intermittently sticking) EGR valve and nothing else, so the price paid for the code reader is worth the piece of mind at the very least.As for buying the extension cable, (or not) on the Towncar, the OBDI connector is on the driver's side fender, so I can prop the tester up and read it by leaning out the window during run-up testing. It depends on where your diagnostics port is as to whether you need the extension cable. You do need to see the display during real-time testing. If you're chasing an intermittent MIL, you'll need a cable to run under the hood and into a window so you can have the tester inside while you drive and have a friend watch the display.

Once I got this hooked up correctly, it gave some codes. the truck connector plugged in several different places on the reader. After much looking online, I got it right. What I missed and was not in the book. The ghost outline of the truck connector is on the face of the reader. There probably should have been a picture and instruction showing this.

This product has worked great and I have not experienced any of the problems that some reviewers described.

Purchased as a gift for my son who got a “hobby” truck (an old F-150) to fix up that’s pre-OBD2. He had an OBD2 reader but of course could not use it on this old truck. Although OBD1 info is limited, he uses it primarily to check up on smog/emissions stuff (that’s just about all it can do as electronics used to be very primitive on these older vehicles) and he needed a Ford specific reader. He reports it is working well but that the prongs used to connect to the OBD port are a little “weak” so you have to be very careful when plugging it in to avoid damaging the reader.

Made reading 3 number codes on my F150 easy. I have an older action code reader that you have to watch for LED blinks or listen to the buzzer and not having to write down the number of beeps makes diagnostics a bit easier.