Paramount 3D filaments are made from 100% virgin PLA and vacuum sealed with desiccant. Filaments are compatible for use in all top brand 3D printers. Please search 'PARAMOUNT 3D' for more colors and filament types. FORM THE POSSIBILITIES
J**.
Paramount3D PLA is my new goto alternative to Hatchbox and I'm loving it!
First time testing this Pantone Gray 423c version from Paramount3D and it definitely doesn't disappoint. I have lately switched over from Hatchbox to Paramount3d due to their consistency and how clean the layers adhere together.Iron Man Mk1 partially finished printed at a mix of 100 and 200 microns the filament is super smooth and lays down perfectly, I do have get thing filament stringing but with a wipe it does come off easily. It may be due to my temp or retraction settings though.Printer - Beta version of the Metal Delta by Blue Eagle LabsFilament - Paramount 3D PLA PANTONE Gray 423C -Temperature - Hotend - start 195c end at 185c , BED - 70c
R**N
Very brittle and jams
Spent hours trying to make this work but never got it to print. It kept jamming in my Bowden tube. The texture of this filament is very rough and absolutely will not feed. It also flakes off pieces in the tube creating a mess for future use. It almost feels like it's made of chalk instead of plastic.After hours of trying I replaced with a spool of Hatchbox which worked flawlessly.Don't buy this stuff, you'll regret it.
P**G
Good quality, works great in my FlashForge Finder
Good quality, works great in my FlashForge Finder. Ran the first print with it last night and had no issues.
A**R
Five Stars
Great quality Filament for professionals. Never have any issue with it. Print smoothly on heated bed.
A**Z
The printout quality. Which was good.
Good printing.
J**N
These days it's hard to find bad PLA. This is bad PLA.
These days it's hard to find bad PLA. This is bad PLA. The texture is rough when cold, and when heated by the extruder it gets oddly tacky, causing it to want to spring back and not stick to itself well, leading to gaps between infill and walls. Its reluctance to flow freely also leads to stringing, and the stringing leads to gaps when re-priming after a retraction. I have been printing a lot with this because I want to get rid of it, and have found that I have to set my speeds lower, set my retraction higher, add some extra post-retraction priming, and most importantly, crank the heat -- I have tried a lot of temps, and 220C is the only one that gets this stuff to flow even close to normally. It kind of reminds me of PETG. I normally print with ProtoParadigm, AIO, and Solutech brands, and have never encountered these problems before.The color is a gross yellowish gray, which looks like the sort of old NES plastic that has yellowed -- so they nailed that, at least.
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