AAS Copper Nickel Brake Line CN-316 3/16" X 25'

I ordered 2 rolls of 25' each a couple of months ago when I was gathering materials & tools to redo all my hard brake lines under my '99 GTP. I also ordered a bubble flare maker kit off Amazon for about $20 & I bought 2 packs of connectors from a local AutoZone for like $3-$4 each. The bubble flares came out awesome & I took plenty of pics for my friends. Not a single drop leaking anywhere.This stuff bent so easily. I was started with the most challenging lines first, the 2 rear lines. Plus, both of them required reinstalling the original brake proportioning valves that were on there. Make sure you put those back in facing the right way (they only go one way). After spending a few hours under my car one day when it was hot as hell out, I had the rear lines all connected up & attached to the most of the old spots alongside the fuel lines. I did the 2 front lines later that night & it was a joke how easy they were :DI was SOOOOO happy being able to find & buy this stuff. It was really cool going from someone who had never made or heard of a bubble flare to making professional quality, picture-worthy bubble flares (& I took quite a few awesome pics). Like I said before, not a single drop leaked from anywhere & all 12 bubble flare connections I made came out awesome!!! 4 at the ABS pump, 4 where the lines terminate, & one on each end of the 2 rear proportioning valves.Word of advice, buy a $20 propane torch from AutoZone & use it on the calipers for the old, corroded brake bleeder screws. Make sure to take the calipers OFF the car & wash out all the old, flammable brake fluid. Heat up the screws till they glow then throw a cold, wet, soaked rag over them so they steam. Otherwise, they will break & it will complicate the job. Also make sure to use a 6 sided socket that fits EXACTLY over the old screws & keep the socket as close to the wrench as possible (don't use an extension bar). Brakes are awesome now.Well worth the time & effort to complete this job. Had to have my wife help me a few times bleed the brakes until I was happy with the braking performance. AWESOME!!!

This brake line tubing is impervious to salt, brine, as well as magnesium & calcium chloride. All the crap that DOT's in northern US states spray on the roads in winter. It does develop a green coating, identical to what the copper cladding on the Statue of Liberty looks like. This is normal. It's called a patina and is due to the copper reacting with oxygen in the air. This forms a protective coating and prevents any further deterioration of the brake line, so no need to freak out when you see it start to form.Regarding its formability, it is excellent. Copper Nickel is very easy to bend and shape with your hands, unlike steel. It also takes flares on the ends easily, with either hand or hydraulic flaring tools. This is the only tubing I use now for brake and fuel line replacements.

This stuff is really easy to use. I haven't assessed its corrosion resistance yet, but others say it is really good. When making flares, there is often that one that just doesn't come out right, but it must be because this metal is soft enough that the questionable flares sealed right up. It is easy to bend around and get it to go where you want it to go.It probably won't quite take the beating that the regular steel stuff would endure, such as when a piece of road debris gets kicked up underneath the car, but neither will crap steel brake line that rusts out quickly. I'm using this stuff, and am so far very much satisfied with it.

I've done several steel brake line jobs in the past, but I'll never use steel again. After having a second set of lines rust out on my Dodge Dakota, I decided to give this a try. It's amazing. It's easy to shape; I still used a brake line bender, but just a simple one.I used it with both bubble and inverted flares and they all turned out perfect if I added a drop or two of brake fluid. I used simple flaring tools, less than $25 each. I did a total of 12 flares on this job and not a single one leaked. I could have never made that claim before with steel.The line is considerable lighter than steel. I was a little worried about strength, but it's held up well and I've had no issues even braking under heavy load. Not worrying about having the line rust out and fail unexpectedly gives me peace of mind as well.

I had to make a bunch of new brake lines for my 1989 Toyota Pickup. Here in the Northeast (Boston), rust is a constant enemy, and my brake lines had rusted through. I initially bought this line for rust resistance, but I'd recommend it anywhere. It's so soft that you can probably get away without a bending tool, provided you don't have to make any very tight bends. I also had no trouble making proper inverted flares on the ends of the tubes. You might save yourself a few bucks by buying steel lines, but you'll probably save yourself considerable frustration by using this instead. Highly recommended.

Easy to bend, but I would not use this in an off-road application, as I believe that the lines are too soft to endure any real abuse from rocks or stones flying up at it. Love the way it looks.

As others said, it if very easy to work with. It can be bent in place under the car as needed, that would be difficult with steel. Replaced the rears on my Honda, took over 25ft so had to order twice, but the delivery was very fast. Would be nice if you could get longer lengths. Do yourself a favor and get the Cal-Van inline flaring tool for 3/16". Works great, much better than the bar type of tool. All my flairs sealed, no problem.

I can't tell you how easy this product is to use....first time user, and hopefully a repeat customer. I replaced all the lines on our 66 Comet, and it was really easy to use, both in flaring and installing. I don't know exactly on how it'll work because the car is still in my shop awaiting some front suspension work, but will update when finished. I'm hoping for all fittings to be leak free.