Ninja 300 250 Fender Eliminator Kit Ninja 300 License Plate Bracket Tail Tidy 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 With License Plate Light Compatible OEM Turn Signal

Purchased this for my 2016 Ninja zx3r/300 KRT edition. Shipped and arrived within estimated time frame and was exactly as described. The bracket is thick and sturdy as well as the coating/paint. At the moment I'm unsure of the LED plate light brightness as I haven't seen it at night yet however it appears it'll be more than bright enough. Only a few small cons I can think of with this, which aren't that big of a deal especially for $32.#1 There are absolutely zero instructions, for some that are less mechanically inclined this maybe an issue. However being an automotive technician I had no problems. See below for my instructions.#2 The plate bracket angle is horrible, it points your plate at almost a 45° angle up which is almost certainly going to get you pulled over eventually unless most cops in your area drive Semis while on patrol. 😂 You'll either have to bend your plate down a bit or toss the bracket in a vice secured with a good rag to avoid scratching it. That's if you don't wanna deal with picky police officers.#3 the splice connectors provided with these are atrocious as they Pierce the existing harness for the plate light which you'd inevitably have to cut anyway unless you make a new harness. Using these garuntee you'll damage the wires and certainly over time introduce moisture and corrosion into the harness. Bad bad. It's best to 1 either cut, strip, splice the harness with electrical tape or #2 strip, solder and heat shrink the wires for best results.EDIT: The LED plate light is most certainly bright enough to illuminate the plate at night.Resolution for lack of instructions. Install time approx 1 hr. Skill level: anyone with the following tools.Tools requiredYour bike keyPliers or multitool/leathermanPhillips head screw driver/shorter the better.T30, T25 and T20 torx bit driver or equivalent size Allen key set. I prefer torx on Allen head bolts.10mm wrench OR ratchet with 10mom socket.#1 remove rear passenger seat/cowl with key.#2 remove both side fairing panels just below the rider seat. Each panel has 1 Allen per side. T25 or 5mm allen. They are also held in place with push pins. When allen bolts are removed reach under the panels on both corners and pull sharply to pop the pins from the grommets.#3 remove the rider seat. Under where you just removed the side fairings you'll see one allen T30/allen 8mm per side. Remove these. Now your seat will lift up slightly and slide to the rear and off.#4 under the rider seat you'll see a silver/unpainted bracket that held the seat secured with two 10mm bolts, remove these and set aside. Once unbolted rotate the bracket clockwise(standing on the left side of the bike) and lift up. This will allow you to remove it from the two fairing tail pins without removing the tail fairing.#5 open your tool compartment under the rear seat and remove your tool bag. There are three sets of wires coming from the stock fender. One is the plate light, the other two are turn signals. Follow these wires forward under the rider seat and locate the three connectors at the end. Squeeze the tabs and release the wires from their connectors. Feed the wires back up to the tail by slightly bending up on the wire retainers holding them to the frame. Now you're ready to remove the fender.#6 using a T30/8mm allen remove the 4 mounting bolts holding the fender located under the tool compartment lid. Once removed you'll be able to lower the fender and feed the wires out..#7 New fender eliminator. Secure the license plate light just above the plate bracket with provided allen bolts/nuts size t20/4mm and route the plate wires in the circle hole and out the square hole on top in the center of the mounting holes.#8 remove your old turn signals, make sure to remember right or left. Use the Phillips head driver to loosen the rear caps and slide them down the wires. Squeeze the rubber of each signal light on the inside of the bracket with pliers and slightly bend the signal lights and the grommets will easily pop out. Spraying these with silicone lube may help but may also hinder your grip.#9 once signals are removed I stall them on the correct sides of your new eliminator. Insert the wide end of the signal light into the bracket first and work your way around pressing the grommet in. Be patient this is likely the most annoying part. A flat head may help in this situation but may scratch the coating. Once the signals are in route the signal wires with the plate wire up through the square hole at the top of the bracket.#10 wiring. I recommend not using the splice connectors, they suck. Cut 6'-10' off the old license plate light with the connector plug at the end. Strip the sheathing back 1.5' and the wire back 1/2'-1'. Repeat on the new elimimator LED tail light.#11 splice or solder the wires. Red = pos Black =neg. Match the colors and splice accordingly. Now solder OR securely cover with electrical tape.#12 install the eliminator, run the wires up through the tail with the eliminator bolts in place and secure with the 4 t30/8mm bolts. Tighten the bolts/nuts. And reroute the wires and plug them in. BEFORE installing the seats and fairing in reverse order make sure your turn signal locations are correct by turning the ignition on and activating your signals, also a good time to check for plate light.#13 if all is good reinstall the seat bracket, seats and fairings in reverse order and don't forget to mount your license plate.

I'd rate the overall build for this assembly as satisfactory. The metal quality is good, the coating quality is iffy at best, mine came with some rubbed/unpainted corners out of the box, and everything was bubble wrapped. Unless you use a lube, I almost guarantee you' ll scratch the metal installing the turn signals. I gouged the heck out of it on mine, but it was all hidden under the rubber of the turn signals, so I'm not worried about it.**YOU HAVE TO FEED THE TAG LIGHT WIRES THROUGH THE NEW BRACKET BEFORE CONNECTING THE CONNECTOR**Just the new bracket, through the wiring holes. If you don't, the tag light connector you're reusing is too big to fit through the wiring hole on the new bracket (will still fit fine through the holes on the bike), and you'll have to start over or route the tag wires in a way that looks stupid.The thing I would recommend if you plan on keeping this long turn is *SOLDER THE TAG LIGHT*. The ghetto splice sleeves they give you ALWAYS fail, and you'll get pulled over at some point along the line for a 'burnt out' tag light. Butt connectors also don't work, because the wires for the new tag light are those thin generic wires that are on every Chinese electrical product ever, and even the red crimp sleeves are too big. Take your time, do it right, and solder it. I actually had to melt TWO layers of heat shrink around the included tag light wire, just to get the outer layer of insulation for the wire thick enough to seal with the existing connector wires with heat shrink after soldering.Over all compared to a Yoshi or similar kit, for a bit over 30$ you can't beat this kit. If you take your time, it installs really clean, and looks really good. Even with the tag light looking like a cheap Chinese LED strip, it actually lights up the plate very well. You can tell whomever designed this kit really put a lot of thought and care into the product, because the LED mounting nuts and the mounting nuts to the bike are anti-back off nuts.If you're willing to take the time and do the kit 'right', you just saved yourself 100$ compared to similar kits, and it looks awesome, doesn't look cheap or generic at all.

So glad I picked this bad boy up.Packaging: Came in a small brown box with the plate wrapped nicely in bubble wrap.Quality: The material and finish are smooth on this. Does not feel or look cheap. Very sturdy including the harware [bolts & nuts]Install: Overall, took about an hour to install. I watched a few YouTube videos on how to install it before I did and it helped a lot. -You WILL have to cut and splice the license plate light wire, but it's only a hot and ground wire. Nothing crazy.-Hardest part of this install is getting the rubber grommets of the turn signals into the new bracket. Like i said, watch some videos on how to install. There are PLENTY of videos.If you have any questions feel free to comment.UPDATE: 2 Months later everything is holding up - EXCEPT the bolts holding the licence plate LED light have BOTH vibrated and fell out sometime during riding. They came already bolted on, so it was not due to my assembly. I would advise you check the tightness when installing your kit.

Fits and looks tons better than the factory fender that sticks out for days. But I had to put mine in a vise and bend it down some, without doing that the license plate sits at way too far of an angle to easily be seen. And the LED light it came with was pretty much junk, the light wasn't even glued down to the housing when I got it. So I used my TST industries light I already had laying around. Other than that it looks good and does what it's supposed to. Oh yeah and it comes with zero instructions but is pretty easy to figure out how to install it and mount the signals to it.