5 Pack HC-SR501 Pir Motion IR Sensor Body Module Infrared for Arduino

Hooked the VCC and ground to a 12v A/C adapter and it worked perfect. The 3.3v "trigger" pin (the "OUT") even had enough juice to directly power a red LED (tho a little dimmer than normal). Very wide sensitivity pattern. Tho description says "< 100 degrees" I thought it was greater than 120. At default sensitivity it would trigger easily from 8-10' away. I never adjusted it as that was the perfect distance for my needs. Holding it with the sensor "dome" facing down and the adjusting (orange) "screws" facing you, the left one is the sensitivity, the right is the duration that the OUT pin will stay "on" (i.e. hold at 3.3v). Minimum seems to be around 4 seconds.

These are useless as motion detectors due to the false reports. Yes I tried the pF capacitor from Signal to Ground and I shortened the signal wire. It did reduce the false motions but they still happen few minutes. Unfortunately I can't send them back due to adding the capacitor to the circuit. I would not recommend these to anyone. I will try to keep fussing with them. I am trying now on a Wemos D1 Mini with less than 1 cm of signal wire from PIR to data pin. UPDATE: Still bad on the wemos with <1 cm wire. Tried pull up resistor - no effect. Increased and decreased capacitor size - no effect. I've ordered a different type. Hope they work.

My first impression is that these are great little sensors. They seem to detect motion well and hookup is really easy. They work perfectly to drive the 5 volt input of a relay module; when I get time to experiment I'll see what they can really do.

These modules are perfectly good for most applications they are intended for. If you want very close movement (2 meters to 2 millimeters) you need to sonic ones. I tested these with an ESP-12 and have great results. For those complaining about false positives, and unreliable readings... When you switch a GPIO pin to an input and hang a long wire off it, that wire can pick up stray signals and cause the voltage on the GPIO pin to vary. This can cause the system to think the switch has changed. To fix this, there are several things you can do. 1. add a pull-up resistor 2. add a bypass capacitor 3. shielding on the wire 4. use twisted pair wiring A pull-up resistor is a resistor connected between the GPIO pin and 3.3v. The exact value of this is not critical, 4.7k is a common value to use, as is 10k. This ensures that when the switch it open, the GPIO pin will go high. A bypass capacitor is a small (pF range) capacitor that is connected between the GPIO and ground. This provides a path for any radio signals that are picked up by the wire to go to ground and not confuse the system. Shielding or using twisted pair wiring are other ways to reduce the effect of radio signals on the system.

These are great for turning the screen off and on, in my controller box.