Eccotemp45H-LP 6.8 GPM Outdoor Propane Tankless Water Heater, White

I got this for my 1000 sq ft house about 3 months ago. The plumbing had to installed and then the inside of the house finished. I didn't get to run or test it until about 3 weeks ago. I was excited to test it, though nervous about the Chinese made heater.At first run, it came on when we turned on the kitchen sink. It ran as advertised heating the water right to 120. Then we tried the shower and and it no longer turned on. I tried the bathroom sink and it came on, but only on nearly full power. After a few hours, the kitchen sink no longer turned on the heater.There is a flow meter inside the opening to the heater that controls when the heater is turned on. The manual with the heater states the heater will come on at .75 gallons per minute flow. I was pulling 1.4 gallons per minute out of my kitchen sink and that was not turning on the heater. I called customer service and explained the problem. The service agent said she had “just had a call about the same model” and she advised that person to replace all their fixtures for flow problem. I was told my plumbing was the culprit. I explained that it should have come on over the .75 flow minimum but she disagreed. I explained that new faucets are only allowed 1.5 gallons max and how could I obtain this flow.By that afternoon the heater was no longer even working. I had all three faucets turned on the same time and the heater did not turn on. I submitted a ticket online since they no longer answered the phone. That started two weeks of hassles. If you are not technically inclined or have to pay plumbers or electricians to install, I recommend you never buy this equipment. Here is an excerpt from their troubleshooting email.If there is no error code and the unit does not come on when the HOT water is turned on. This means that the flow meter is not sending a signal to the computer which starts the machine. 1st to fix this you want to locate the flow meter at the bottom right on the inside of your heater. The flow meter sensor will have a white, plastic piece attached to the front of it, with a set of different colored wires coming from the computer board attached to the top of it. The flow meter sensor has red black and yellow wires coming out of a black sensor that is screwed to the flow meter.2nd check the wire connections; follow the wires to where it connects to the computer board. If both were connected you will want to remove the flow meter. Then, you will need to remove your water inlet on the outside of your heater, at the bottom right side. There is a metal clip that holds the flow meter sensor in place inside the heater. Remove this metal clip, and blow through the meter- it should make a zing sound when the little fan inside spins. Reinsert the flow meter sensor, re-attach your water inlet, and turn hot water on to see if this resolves the issue.If the display shows two squares rotating up and down. This pertains to the 45H only. 1st push the power button. 2nd If the unit has been in operation for a while and all of the sudden the squares begin rotating. This means power was lost somehow while unit was running. 3rd The flow meter wire is loose on the computer, or the connector where the two wires connect between the computer and the flow meter are loose. 4th The remote itself may have a short, or the power cord going to the computer one of the prongs may not be making a good connection threw the connector or the computer.Regardless of what the error code is; take the two front screws out of the computer board and it will slide out. Pull the inserts that are lined up along the front of that board and put them back in one by one. Plug the unit back in and see if this solves any issues.This went on for 4 emails. At one point I had to have all the plumbing removed from it and then turn it on to test. Each of these emails cost time and money. Finally they called me and asked me to connect all my plumbing to the pressure relief valve. I finally told them no way was I going to connect my plumbing to the safety devise required by law to have nothing plugging it. I was put on hold and eventually hung up on.The whole time I had been begging for a part to try to fix it. As many times as they had me take it apart, I could have tried some new part like a flow meter or circuit board. Instead they gave me a laundry list of suggestions that in no way fixed my problem. I even told them the flow meter did not make a consistent zing as reference in the email above.Finally they sent me and email telling me to remove the heater and send it in for service. If it was within the 30 days of purchase, they would do this for free. I guarantee it no one will ever fall within this 30 days with all the run around they give you with diagnostic emails.I finally called it quits. After all the time and money wasted troubleshooting this heater, I had to give up. In no way was I going to invest any more time on this heater.If all you're going to do is heat a swimming pool, this might be a good heater for you. Don't bother plumbing anything larger than ½ inch since all the piping inside the unit is 3/8 copper or smaller.

Where to start...... This unit is actually attached to the exterior of my home, on the other side of the wall by my kitchen sink, in a hot water heater closet. We were going to have to do significant re-plumbing to use an outdoor unit, not installed in the closet. Just an FYI if anyone plans to install in a closed space, not actually inside the home, an outdoor unit will likely not work......as I discovered. What the listing for this unit doesn't tell you is you need a ventilation kit in addition to this heater, which will set you back a few hundred dollars. The installation was overall easy. After installation, the sink in the kitchen, which has dual nobs, works greats and activates the heater quickly. I could not figure out why the shower in the bathroom (about 30 feet away from the unit) would not activate the heater. After multiple emails to customer support (they do not answer the phone) were completely useless, I started searching other trouble shooting videos on youtube, for other other brands of tankless heaters. It was here that I discovered a faucet with a single lever faucet won't always keep the hot water heater activated, as the flow rate might drop too low when trying to mix hot and cold. I removed the shower head, and had no problem mixing the water. I have since removed every screen, flow washer and anything else I can think of that would prevent water flow from dropping too much and switching off the unit. I still can not get the unit to stay on when I re-attach the shower head. I have since tried multiple types of shower heads. The only thing to do at this point is to remove the single-lever faucet, and install dual controls in the shower. This is much easier said than done obviously, and will be costly. If this wasn't an issue, I would be quiet satisfied with the unit, despite the costly vent kit and non-existent customer service that basically recommends calling a plumber with every email they respond to. The single-lever faucet could be a problem with any unit, and not just this particular brand. On the plus, it is a good looking unit, works great for my kitchen sink, and while using the shower without a shower head (which is so very wasteful) I have never run out of hot water. I live in a small country house in South Texas. If the winter proves to affect hot water availability, I will update this review. (I do plan on using a heat lamp in the closet with it during the winter to help prevent freezing. Not that we endure freezing temps very often.)

Seems well made and was easy to install, it replaced another brand that died.pro: comes with a new T&P valve and gas shutoff, if you need these. Also includes spare seals for flex tube. It was easy to cut the wire off the remote control and splice it to the existing control wire that goes through the wall. This way I didn't have to make any new holes.cons: The water fittings are made to mate to flex tubing with rubber seals, this makes it almost impossible to mount the T&P valve right up under the heater where it should be. I tried regular pipe fittings but they won't seal water tight, even with top quality thread sealer. I expected this but thought I'd try anyway. So my T&P valve now sits in a T fitting at the end of a flex tube, the shortest I could get was 10". The cold water inlet also has a 10" flex tube just so I could mate up to the existing piping.Also, this one seems to have a higher idle setting than my old one. On low flow of water you get REALLY hot water out because the flame is too high for a limited flow. So, counter to what you'd think, open the hot water tap MORE to get cooler water. These on-demand heaters are really hoping you don't mix in any cold water, you're supposed to set the temperature you want on the remote and then only use the hot water tap.I don't like any of these heaters the way they are currently designed, but they're code here. We can NOT use a tank heater but with some clever plumbing, a pump, thermostat, and small storage tank you can make an on-demand heater work fairly nicely.

Error code right from the start. Temperature sensor error, tells me it's a dud from the factory. Second unit same problem. We bought the first unit, got the sensor replaced and the unit lasted 2 years before it quit without warning. Bought another heater because it would be faster to install and the temperature sensor doesn't work in this one either. They had more than 2 years and didn't even bother to fix their issues. I DON'T recommend.

The hot water is pressurized so I had to modify my bathroom sink by removing the filter for it to turn on and then it sprays all over the bathroom. Can't really adjust the heat with your taps, once it's on it stays at the temperature you set it at. If you want to decrease the heat a little by lowering your tap the heat turns off and your water goes cold. Fine during the summer but during the winter I constantly get an error code with beeping and the water runs cold. The only way I've been able to fix this is by turning the tap off and back on, can be very annoying when taking a shower.

Need to revise this review to let people know what a piece of garbage this is, had it working for two and a half months it quit working middle of March and it's been broken since it's middle of June, no help from Eccotemp and now I need to purchase a new water heater because I'm fed up with this. Lots of money spent on something that only lasted two and a half months.Stay away from Eccotemp not a good company to deal with if you have a problem.Canadian buyers beware!!!!Yes it is CSA certified product and to pass inspection in Canada it must have a PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE installed, so Eccotemp wrote in their manual that it's in the box for "Canada Only" see attached pictures, of course I didn't receive it in my box so I contacted Eccotemp January 11th they got back to me asking for all kinds information which I sent them then they wanted to know where in the manual it states that if I could send them pictures of that so I did and finely I got a response from them today January 28th, this is the response I got "Please note that the second sentence of the paragraph states THIS MANUAL AND ALL ECCOTEMP CONTENTS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE PLEASE VISIT ECCOTEMP/SUPPORT FOR MORE INFORMATION" so just wanted all people who are considering purchasing one for use in Canada you will need to purchase a pressure relief valve seperately don't bother with Eccotemp because it won't get you anywhere.Other than that the unit works good so far but it's only been two weeks.Hope I never need support because it's a long process dealing with Eccotemp!

I paid a professional installer to put this heater in and just after one year, it failed, flooding my house. When we called Eccotemp their customer service people told us it may have frozen, and it was out fault for not letting our taps running all the time! Honestly, who leaves their taps running all the time? The remediation team repairing my house said it was installed correctly, that it was warm and that it was not frozen. They want us to turn it on again. Would you turn on a piece of equipment that failed to see if it is still not working? What if it floods the place again? Then he said that we should take it off the wall, take it outside and try it there. It is winter here, I am not an installer, I can't remove it and take it outside (I am a 68 year old woman) and what about the propane connection, does that not require a gas fitter? Very angry right now.

Seems to work fairly well. The install was good and everything seems compatible with standard gas and plumbing pieces. It takes a bit longer to get hot water because there is none being stored in the unit. Worth it for the energy saving of not continually keeping water hot, and the space savings over a tank.. The heater kicks in at any flow rate but I get a ignition error if I dont have the water turned on somewhat hard. Doesnt seem to be an issue. Overall the unit is great.