OVERTURE PETG Filament 1.75mm, 3D Printer Filament, 1kg Filament (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy Probability +/- 0.02 mm, Fit Most FDM Printers (Blue)

UPDATED REVIEW: Getting this PETG to print was a real struggle for me but... it ended up eventually working so in all fairness I've upped my review stars and I take credit for this as "user error". What it boiled down to was print speed.I was working with common slicer templates for PETG which print around 50mm/sec and I see other people reporting success at that speed but, it was a total mess for me. I found a few reviews that suggested turning the speed way down so I tried it and it made all the difference.I am working with a new Ender 3 v2 Noe with PEI build plate. Using about 240 nozzle and 80 bed. My esteps are calibrated spot on, and my flow calibrated to about about 88 for this material in my machine and these temps. I turned the main print speed down to 30mm/sec and the initial layers, supports, and walls down to 15mm/sec and it completely changed my printing experience with this material.***HERE IS MY INITIAL REVIEW BEFORE I DISCOVERED SLOWING DOWN THE PRINT SPEED***Based on other reviews and pictures, it seems some people have had great results with this filament. My expectations are low, I just wanted decent results as my prints are mostly functional and I am not overly concerned with aesthetics. Unfortunately after hours of testing and tuning I have not achieved a single acceptable result and will likely give up with this Overature PETG.The filament arrived sealed, I have stored it in a vacuum bag and use a heated filament holder when printing. My machine is a new E3v2 Neo with capricorn PTFE tube and a bi-metal heat break. I also print in an enclosure. ZERO luck with this roll of PETG.The pictures show two temp towers, the one on the left I printed with TECBEARS PLA and the one on the right with Overature PETG. Yes, PLA is nice to work with and as you can see, the PLA tower printed clean starting with 215 and 180 on the top; all layers were good with just a little stringing at the top cooler levels. Again, I just hoped for acceptable results with the PETG; I started at 245 on the bottom with 85 bed temp and finished at 215 on the top layer. All levels look terrible.My e-steps are tuned perfect, I did several flow tests printing single and double walled cubes which resulted in overflow and an adjusted flow rate of 88 which resulted in good flow test results on the test cubes but still most all prints fail, I barely got this temp tower shown in my pictures to print and as you can see, it is terrible in all regards.I have done a ton of tests for 1st layer adhesion and z-offset, my bed is super level (I use octoprint to visualize) and I've tried a few z-offset adjustments, no love... My last 1st layer tests turned out good and then I go to print and it wont stick, the filament globs up on the print head and smears around. I absolutely must have a brim, or better yet a raft or my print fails on the first layer.Sure, some folks have had good luck although I've put in the time and a lot of effort and I give up; I cannot get this filament to produce a useable print on my E3v2 Neo.I am not the only one reporting these challenges, maybe Overature has quality control issues with their PETG? Maybe I never found the perfect adjustments but I sure tried and I have to move on now, I can't spend my whole life trying to get a filament to produce "OK" results.***SEE TOP OF REVIEW FOR UPDATED SUCCESS STORY***

I see several negative reviews from people who have purchased this as their first roll of PETG coming from PLA. In most of these cases, their problems have nothing to do with the brand of filament but are due to user error.Printing with PETG, while not especially difficult, is definitely not as straightforward as PLA. You can not expect it to be plug and play on most stock bowden drive machines. With a bowden drive, retraction settings and temperature will be critical for decent results. Fan settings are important too. And if you want best results you really should upgrade to direct drive for more precise retraction and an all metal hot end for better temperature control.Furthermore, a good first layer will set you up for success on the rest of your print, so a flat and level bed and/or auto bed level system goes a long way. This applies to all materials but especially PETG because it will string and blob like crazy if your nozzle drags over high spots on the bed.This is a just a basic overview but there is more to know. Refer to any of the numerous videos or articles about this if you need help optimizing your machine for PETG.Once you get it dialed in, PETG is in my opinion the most well rounded material with excellent strength, great temperature resistance, good printability, and minimal health hazards relative to other materials. Overture is no exception and I have had great success with their filament.TLDR: This is good quality and high value filament. Don't bash the brand if you don't have experience with printing PETG. This is good filament and your issues likely have nothing to do with the quality of their product.

I've used almost exclusively overture as long as I've been printing, so I can only be so experienced in the quality of it.When using PLA, I used 3 other brands of filament and had tons of issues- filament wasn't neatly wound, it'd tangle, adhesion problems, moisture issues out of the box, overall a pain. Overture, however, has been great. It's always wound up so cleanly. With PETG adhesion on glass beds can often be difficult, which it still was with overture, but after some messing around with it I finally got it figured out. Once I did, prints were extremely clean. esun, however, was on the other printer still trying to work out how it got tangled up as there was a big spaghetti mess at my extruder motor.I'll keep buying overture as long as they have high quality filaments.

I have the creality ender 3 v2 neo and my settings that I run through cura for this filament are, nozzle @ 235°, bed @ 80°. I have only printed small things with this filament so far, but so far so good! Ironing with petg at 235 creates a really smooth surface due to it melting together better than PLA. In addition, PETG heat resistance is far better than PLA, I left 2 identical prints in my car printed with both filaments and the petg held up great no warping while the pla was a warped melted mess. I love the fact they give you a reference on the filament roll of how many grams you have left. It helps you estimate how much you have vs how you will use. Overture is by far my favorite brand. Overture PETG is a little harder to get settings dialed in but super worth the benefits it provides over pla.

Print head higher temp....bed at higher temp. Print a little slower, and you have some very nice printed, very durable parts.The strength of the prints I made were about 20% stronger than standard PLA, however, that also means they are more rigid and less flexible. You can bend or twist PLA a little more before it fails. This stuff take a lot more pressure to bend or twist, but once it goes...It goes.If you need strong parts that are static or interlocking, this is the stuff to use.

Filamento de buena calidad, desafortunadamente venía mal bobinado en varias secciones.

Compared with my previous brand, this has a superior performance and quality.

Un articulo muy bueno para la impresión 3D pero difícil de manejar, recomiendo primero investigar sus propiedades y programar la impresora para su uso

de temperatuur moet veel te hoog om te kunnen printen, dit is terug te zien in de kwaliteit van de print

prima volta che usavo PETG (con i3 MEGA S) e subito trovato benissimo. Solo un po' di warping inizialmente ma dovuto solo alla mancanza di brim nel modello. Non troppo stringing (nella norma per un PETG) e buona resistenza e flessibilità.