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SCARPAMen's Vapor V Rock Climbing Shoes for Sport Climbing and Bouldering
J**W
These are some awesome climbing shoes
These are some awesome climbing shoes. I have been climbing for many years and am an instrutor at my local gym. I have wide feet and high arches and hammer toes. These shoes fit me better than any others I have tried on so far. The are suede so they will stretch a LITTLE to custom-fit your feet but they have a lot of rubber too, so don't expect too much stretch. They have a solid sole which give your feet a lot of support (as opposed to my Five Ten Moccasyms which are very thin slippers). The Vapor has a strong forward curve to it, which helps your toes grip overhangs, and a great heel for heelhooks. I purposely bought my shoes very tight, so I do like to take them off between climbs, but when I put them back on it is like a relief because my foot slips on and they fit like a nice glove. I really really love these shoes!
L**M
Strong climbing shoe
As with most climbing shoes, these are pretty uncomfortable at first and take quite a while to break in. They're fairly aggressive, but not overly uncomfortable or painful once they've been broken in. So far, they've lasted about 10 months of 2-3 indoor climbs a week, without any signs of quitting. Would highly recommend for beginner to intermediate gym climbers.
S**E
Nice fit on a moderately wide foot. Perfect toe feel. Great edge!
When I first tried these shoes on I thought they would be too small. I tried a 42.5 and they hurt the outside of my small toe at first. My big toe fit perfectly, as did my heel. My feet are moderately wide so fit was important.I tried a 43 and I knew right away there was too much room in the toe and heel.I went back down to a 42.5. When the shoes were warm is when I tried them on this time. They fit like a glove.This is my first pair of intermediate climbing shoes, but they are incredible! They take a little time to warm up to your feet. Now that I’ve been climbing in them for a couple of weeks, they have broken in very nicely. No pain in my outer toes from rubbing. My toe sits in them perfectly, and they are very secure on my foot. I can trust my toes on smaller holds with them. They do require a bit more attention when smearing, but that’s to be expected with the more aggressive edge.
A**R
Comfortable for a moderate shoe, but the heel slips
I liked the Scarpa Vapor V. I generally agree with the consensus that it's a good shoe for the strong beginner. The performance across the board is a little better than average while being really comfortable for the performance. I got the shoe in a 44 EU with a 46.5 EU for my street size and there was only a slight break in period of 2-3 gym sessions. Note that the shoe is on the wider side in the forefoot.Edging was good, not quite as much as an Instinct VS since the shape of the toe is a little wider, but still better than a beginner shoe like the Helix. It was pretty easy to feel secure standing on small edges on slab or getting a chip in an overhang. Smearing was pretty good with how much surface area the forefoot had.The heel had good rubber and construction outside but the heel cup is oddly wide, which left it feeling somewhat insecure on more aggressive heeling. Especially when trying to heelcam on a smaller hold, the heel slipped every time. I've talked to a few other guys at my gym who had this shoe and it was the same for them, the heel has too much dead space. It didn't really feel like downsizing more would help much since it was a width thing.Durability was average for me but one of my friends burned through it in a month. Granted, he went really often to the gym so take that number with a grain of salt. I went through it in 2 months, which is the same amount of time as my pair of Helix's. The velcro straps never wore on my pair but ripped for a 2 of the guys at my gym. Not sure if I just don't pull as aggressively when tightening, but I never had dead space in the forefoot so your mileage may vary.Overall, if it was on sale for sub-$130, I'd get them again in a 43 EU as a gym shoe, as it does most things well and is pretty comfortable. However, it's not a shoe I'd rely on as my main aggressive shoe as the heel isn't reliable enough and there are better options at the price like the Instinct, Skwama, TN Pro, etc.Pros:- Comfortable- Good performance across the boardCons:- Baggy heel design- Velcro straps may rip if too forceful
D**Z
Runs small, no hassle returns
I was searching for new climbing shoes and These were said to me one of the best intermediate level climbing shoes. I decided to make the purchase. They recommend dropping a size from my normal street shoes but since I have wide feet, I stuck with to my 8.5 u.s size. It was still too small. Made the return (no hassle or addition costs) and got a 9u.s/42 Europe. Still a bit snug but after a couple days of use. It was a great fit. Will buy again
B**Y
Great shoe
Great climbing shoe.
P**L
Great first slightly down turned shoe!
I mainly Boulder and am by no means an expert. I bought these shoes based on review videos I saw as well as the reviews here on Amazon. They fit very snug around my entire foot which is exactly what you want. My toes are bent just barely. I tried out a pair of 5.10's a month ago which were tight in some spots and loose in others which caused me to get a blister in the loose spot. The importance of finding a shoe that fits YOUR foot is so important. If your try on enough shoes you'll figure out what good tight is and bad tight. You don't want those nasty pressure points to flare up as you hit the crux of a problem you're working on.I wear a size 10 in street shoes. I tried 9.5 and 10 in these and the 10 was way too loose. The 9.5's are breaking in just fine due to the hot days I've used them in the gym.The rubber is great, I'm able to smear when the problem calls for it. It's just thick enough that the more acute spike footholds are not painful and thin enough to where you can feel the shallow slopery footholds.The break in period can be a little tough if this is your first pair of slightly down turned shoes, I would take them off every two attempts the first day but now I usually have them on for 30 minutes at a time. They are getting more comfortable each session. Yesterday was my 4th session with them.I will definitely buy another pair if I wear these out.
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